New engine in went to crank it and no start, tracked it down to spark - cranked it for awhile and got the plug to spark once. truck almost turned over twice when I first tried it. I am getting fuel - one of the injectors leaked a little at first but fixed that up and have pressure at the rail although I havent tested it yet.

so turned out the two wires going to CKPS were missing the rubber and touching each other. so I pulled the plug off another harness and spliced it in. replaced CKPS and still cant get spark. Everything else is plugged in as it should be (as far as I know) although I may need to adjust the throttle cables some more...

Any other suggestions?? Going to try some more stuff tomorrow

some other notes

truck is being jumped when I am trying to start it and have 12ish volts prior to cranking it. Seems to crank at normal speeds. No check engine light I was hoping it would throw a code and give me a clue....

 

The crank position sensor is very critical on the position and orientation of the spacer. Other members have posted about no crank on an engine where it was replaced, only to find spacer was wrong. And I believe there are two variations of the spacer, one for auto and one for manual transmission.

The crank sensor is a magnetic pickup that works by the tip being about 2mm away from flywheel teeth when mounted. Those fly by and make the pulse that the ECU counts to send the spark. I recall one owner saying it went bolts-spacer-sensor-block.

Unlike a lot of sensors, when this one is out, there is no plan B. Also, if wires are reversed to it the timing is off 3 degrees. Info attached. This is back by flywheel on driver side. You would not want the tip so close that it hit the teeth of the flywheel (there are two missing teeth to provide a reference point, but the closer to the teeth the stronger the signal.

From RAVE for a D2 (same setup):



l

 

hmm like I said I put a newer harness on it when i noticed the wires were worn. Both of the CKPS sensors I have both have the same spacer as far as I can tell. both look exactly like this Sensor - Crankshaft | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com

Will look at it again and see what I can find. Worried something else got shorted when the wires were touching together. is there an easy way to test that the harness is working?

 

The crank sensors makes an AC voltage, which builds up to about 6.5 volts at 1000 rpm or a little higher. But since it won't crank, all you can do is read the resistance of the coil. It has a plug near the unit, and those wires go to pins 11 & 12 of connector C1033 on the ECM. Brown wire and green wire. If you were able to meter them, disconnected from ECU, with a voltmeter, should see a small AC voltage when starter is spinning the engine. Or a resitance when metering toward the sensor, not a dead short or open.

 

You could probably look in the ETM to see which pins at the ECU are for the crank sensor. And then, with power disconnected and both ends unhooked, you could check for continuity, even if you had to jump the two pins together or get a really long test lead. That would at least make sure the wires are doing something.

 

or do what he said. ;-)

 

My friend you said the magic words, long test lead. With an extra long wire, one man can easily test both ends of the cable quickly.

 

I couldn't help but notice the one in the Atlantic British link had a nasty looking crack or defect in the metal case at the lower portion of the part. What gives with that. You would think the one in their ad wouldn't have such visible defects.

 

Quality control test with six pound hammer....

 

IT'S ALIVEEEE!!!!!! I am one happy dude. swaped ECU's it started, turned it off for a little, went to turn it on again and nothing. Swaped back to original ECU and started up.

NOW I am having tachometer/alt issues. Tach keeps going off and on randomly.. and I think my power steering pump is angry with me too since I took that off like a dumb *** when swaping pretty sure it's making a knocking noise. Couldnt tell exactly where it was coming from but wen I put my hand on the pump I could feel it.

Happy it's running but bummed now I have more stuff to fix..

Any input on alt issue? test light showed I was getting power didnt check to see voltages..

And yes belt is routed the right way - i copied off the D1 that was doing all the jumping while the truck ran.