Hello friends, just trying to get her in the best shape. pics soon (first day member)

Just bought 2 months ago 1996 with 93,000! yay!

i guess all rovers leak? what synthetic oil should i use?... live in georgia (leaked from top of full line to bottom of full line in 2 months) sound normal?

i hear water behind my glove box. have read that can be air in coolant system

passenger window stuck in door, motor works.
two back windows do not work.
sun roofs work after "warming up" like 2 - 5 mins

"slips" or "chokes" at 50 mph. exactly at 50 every time. and if it does it too much, i have problems starting it after (alternator type starting problems) will start and the rpm's go up and down and lights dim and fade.

Im only 22, new to cars period. I have heard of Lucas, or heavy weight oil, or something. any good cheap georgia mechanics?

i hear the whole 60,000 maintenance a lot. just tell me everything i need to know to love her. what can i do myself and what should a shop do?

have not tested alternator, but would replacing it fix all my electrical problems?

 

Welcome.
Dont bother with the full synthetic oils, use Shell Rotella 15w-40 year around for your climate.
NAPA Gold oil and air filters.
Gear lube 85w-140.
Passenger window is a broken roller, check the tech section for a how to.
Back windows is a broken solder on the window lift ECU, tech section.
Sunroofs, leave them closed, they will break and it will be in the open position just as you are going into a automatic carwash.
Do NOT do a engine flush.
Do a tune up.
Check the belt routing, tech section.
Have your battery and alternator tested.

 

Welcome to it dude! Don't be scared of these rigs. They're pretty simple and all the info you could possibly need is available online.

 

where at in georgia and welcome to the group

 

Yep welcome to it!

Listen to Spike. He'll not lead you wrong.

 

Just do npt go "Modding" it right off the bat. Change all the fluids, plugs, wires, serp belt if not knew, tighten the valve cover bolts,that will decrease oil leaks.

Drive it easy and listen to it closely. Buy a creeper, safety glasses and a good light and crawl underneath. Check it carefully front to back, top to bottom, inside and out. Get to know where everything is, just like a new girlfriend.

What about lube? Wheel Bearings? Brakes? Does the CDL Engage (Do YOU know what that is and how it is supposed to work)?

Did you download the RAVE yet?

 

Welcome. Another Georgia 96 owner here.

Yes, they all leak. They shouldn't and you should think about fixing any leaks... but even after 30+ years of engine development they could never get the seals right on the 215.

I've gone though mine and it does not leak a drop anywhere. So, it can be done.

Trucks are mechanically simple to work on. The pain is the *** comes when you run up against any issues with the electronics. your a slave to the testbook at that point. The local LR dealer here (chattanooga) charges 100 bucks to hook them up and run a full diagnostics, and reprogram stuff you need (like base idle, TPS etc)

It's important to run premium... just do it.

It's important to change your oil.. again just do it.

stick with the champion copper plugs, switch to the magnicore 8mm.. get a set of new front o2 sensors in there. you need them. even if your not coding yet, if they are old... you need them. screw the back ones, they don't really do crap and not worth spending any money on.

Learn this name...

Will Tillery

He sells used parts. Ships fast and is dirt cheap. I've personally gotten quite a bit from him without a single complaint.

Most important, have fun with the truck.

 

Whats this club you speak of?

 

Yes, live in Kennesaw, GA.

But hey now I'm overheating at red lights, slow speeds, and stop and go situations. Will overheat to top of white line, not red. On freeway or driving fast, cools down.

Coolant is BOILING!

I know to check thermostat, water pump, fan, and fan clutch, and fuses.

I don't want to drain coolant. any easy way to check stuff?... or any more reasons it could be overheating?

 

The overheating could be a few things, could be poor flow, could be air in the system, could be a leak. Have you chekced the level? Are you losing any? As far as the rear windows not working, if you want a quick fix instead of having to re-solder the ECU board, which is a pain, you can just (i know not everyone is a fan of this) jumper the two wires that control this section of the ecu. In the picture below, in the bottom mutiplug in the picture (the bigger white one) there's a thicker short green wire going from the top left wire right into the top right wire, this will jump the bad solder point in your ecu and hsould return rear window functionality. I did mine with a paper clip as opposed to actual wire. the ecu can be found behind the glove box (there are two springs, one on either side of the glove box, that if you fold up, allow your glove box to flip all the way down so you can access the ecu). start there maybe.


and try not to let her over heat. It wont make things any better

good luck