so what are u getting at spike?

 

I can tell you all about the diff lock. Ignore the hun, he tells everybody to delete the solenoid but he is way off base there. It has nothing to do with locking and unlocking the diff. It prevent hi/low shifting if not in neutral (tranny must be in nuetral to shift hi/low).

You need to remove the center console to access the shifter linkage. Drill out the factory rivets on the rubber boot and retain for reinstall.

Take a look at the photo albuns linked in my signature for complete (way too many actually) pictures of complete tear down of CDL to fix my linkage problem.

Go to this page: Land Rover Discovery I Transmission Levers, Linkage Parts Available from RoversNorth.com

Item 35 has to rotate to change from high to low and vice versa. Until it moves, you don't lock/unlock. My linkage was completely frozen, I tore it completely down, replace all the small clips and clevis pins, reused all the big items, cleaned and totally greased it really good and reassembled. After that, just occasional use keeps it working fine.

Do not drive it on dry pavement locked or you will destroy it. And leave the solenoid alone. I don't know where the Hun comes up with telling everyone to just delete it, especially when it plays NO role in trhe Central Diferential Locking function, go figure.

Good luck and Happy Trails to You.

 

I already tore down the console removed rivets and pb blasted the hell out of everything and strong armed it still didn't break free so removed both pins to the linkage and turned the diff lock by hand it turned off the diff lock light so I put in neutral put it in 4h and put back in park then drive and car rolls in park drive or any other gear and just revs then when put back in park I get a nasty grinding noise so I put back in neutral amd turned diff lock back and then from there I'm stumped

 

YouTube - Heywood Banks - Toast

 

Well you definitely have a serious problem there. You need to go thru a process of elimination, also known as troubleshooting.

1. Have you downloaded the RAVE and taken a look at the overall drivetrain? If not, start there. It will answer a hell of a lot of questions much faster and easier than any of us can relate to you. Sorry if you think that is a smartass answer, it is just factual so take it as you desire.

2. Get underneath it with a good light after you study the drivetrain major components. What do you see? Any major visible damage apparent? Any parts missing, deformed, shattered or otherwise appear to be a problem?

3. Take a close look at the whole thing. I like to use the phrase " get to know it like it is a new girlfriend, top to bottom, front to back, inside and out. " Take pictures just like it is a hot new girlfriend so you can really tear into it. Is anything nasty, smelly, leaking or dripping or flowing like a stream?

4. Look especially close at the driveshafts, universal joints, constant velocity joints, transfercase housing, front diff and front axle, those funny looking ball things at the end of each front axle, the wheel bearings, then chase down the rear differential, rear half-axles all the way out to the rear wheel hubs. If you can't recognize and identify all the major components then you have some homework to do to tackle this.

5. If the visual did not help you out that much, it is time to jack up some wheels, maybe even remove them one at a time. Keep a list of what you are going to have to replace and don't scrimp on it or you will be making multiple purchases.

6. With a tire off the ground, try turning the wheel by hand and see what happens. Continue all the way around the vehicle so you can determine the extent of this problem and whatever else you need to resolve.

7. Take a look at the major maintenance sticky and assume you need to do all of it and possibly more depending upon the true condition of your vehicle. Then you can make a good start on the correct repair.

Good Luck, have fun. I like to have a ceremony offering gifts to the Rover Gods and asking for their blessing before I start. I try to include all the basic elements of Fire, Sacrifish'l Meats (Fish, Hog, and whatever other critters are available, along with good cold brew and scantily clad dancing girls as available to keep the spirits high cause you never know what you may Discover when working on a Discovery. I changed the name of mine to Recovery. It is almost well of most of it's ailments now.

 

If your t-case is not in a gear it will just freewheel.
I am not understanding why it will not go into 4hi unlocked, there will not be a light on the dash to let you know you are in 4hi unlocked.

 

Gosh, I tried taking a peek at the T-case but gave up after 2 days. I couldn't get the rivets out and I felt idiotic driving around without a center console and stuff.. not to mention the stick which was the T-Case **** looked hecka ghetto yo.

 

it does go in 4h and 4l unlocked but does nothing but revs and rolls

 

Does it beep or anything? When your **** goes in N it should beep, if it stops then that means it is in gear. Idk just thought I'd ask.

 

Caleb, Did you hear of a drill? You have to drill the factory rivets out to remove the rubber boot.

OP, did you get under it yet?