I hope you all forgive my ignorance, I tried to search this forum -- along with all the other LR and other 4x4 forums -- in search of an answer, to no avail.

I just purchased a 98 Discovery LE that has 182,xxx miles. The interior of the vehicle is in terrific shape, save the rear passenger windows don't roll down and the headliner shows signs of water leakage from the sunroofs.

Inside and underneath the vehicle engine bay shows signs of oil leaking, and for quite some time. The previous owner mentioned that it leaked oil, and I knew that the Valve Gasket can leak prior to purchasing this vehicle. On the front of the engine there is oil pooled to the right of the alternator. I have ordered a socket so I can tighten the bolts down to see if this clears up that leak.

On to my issue, or actually a set of issues/concerns. When shifting from park to reverse, periodically, there is a clunk. Is this a sign of a bad drive shaft/ should I look at the u-joint replacement? Additionally, the transmission shifts terrifically, so long as it is around 2k RPM, otherwise, it can shift a little rough, not all the time, just sometimes.

Also, when I checked the fluids, this is what I found:

1. Oil looked new, but had a slight hint of gas (though I did check this after a short test drive, might simply be a build up?) Is this simply a symptom of my short trip?
2. Coolant looked fine, no smell of coolant when driving. Though I did notice a small drop of green liquid that smelled like coolant drip down the bell housing. This was the only time I've seen it. Is this something to be concerned with? Could the there be something major that is about to go out?
3. Transmission fluid - this is where I am confused. It smells like regular transmission fluid, but it was a honey/light brown color. Though this was checked from the dipstick and not by draining a little bit. Also, it appears as though it is overfilled. Can this be attributed to old fluid mixing with new? Would a drain/fill or drain a little and add Lucas Additive be best?

While I love the vehicle, I am worried I might have a vehicle that will need an immediate transmission rebuild, or major engine work. Don't misunderstand, I am completely aware that these vehicles are not gas and goes, I just am not prepared, financially, to undertake a project vehicle.

I will get pictures taken tomorrow. Any advice/opinions you might have to offer, would be greatly appreciated. Also, I plan on doing the 60k service that has been repeatedly suggested in previous posts.

 

Welcome. Hold on to your wallet.

Clunk can be U joints. Not very expensive. Also there is a rubber flex coupler disc at the rear shaft, which can split and cause vibration, but not a clunk.

Change oil, use Shell Rotella 15W40.

Engines are prone to leak coolant out the rear because that is where head gaskets are the thinnest. Head gasket could be in your future. But there is a throttle body heater that is also prone to leak, $25 fix.

Smear some of the transmission fluid on a clean white paper towel. You are looking for particles in the fluid. Dark particles are clutch dust, and it does not grow back. Drain and flush tranny three times (to get out fluid trapped in the torque converter). Lucas will help the worn tranny, but it is not a forever fix. Tranny fluid would be red normally.

We generally advise folks to have an indy mechanical pre-purchase inspection.

 

The '98 DI has 4 u-joints, your clunk is normal for you miles, HOWEVER still check all the u-joints to make sure they are good and that they take grease, it would not be a bad idea to just replace them anyway as it is cheap peace of mind.
Also tire pressure can make the driveline clunk louder, put all four tires at the same PSI, I like to run 40psi.

Are you 100% sure you checked the trans fluid and not the engine oil?
The trans takes Dexron III, do a drain and fill, then have the filter replaced on it, there is a drain plug on the trans sump.
DO NOT use any trans magic in a bottle until you are actually confirmed that your trans is bad, last ditch effort those are.

Smell of gas in the oil is normal for repeated short trips on any car, as well as water in the oil.
Change the oil and filter, drive it as you see fit and see what happens.

The throttle body heater on the DI never leaks.

It is possible your head gaskets are weeping, again, keep a eye on it.
You might want to rinse the engine first so you have a clean slate.

 

Thanks SB and Spike for the comments.

Spike - I am sure I checked the transmission dipstick and not the oil dipstick. I got an old fabric diaper and wiped the dipstick. Aside from it looking more brown than red, it didn't appear to have any sort of flakes in it. Though I will be doing a drain and fill this weekend.

Tomorrow I'll check the tires when I get gas. Perhaps they aren't all the same, though the clunk doesn't really happen frequently. Actually, it happens so infrequently that it surprises me. I'll try and see if there is a pattern that might help identify the cause.

I checked the coolant level over the last couple of days, and if it is leaking, it is at such a small amount that I cannot discern how much of it is actually going. But I have been around a vehicle that had a blown head gasket and the smell of burning coolant is pretty recognizable, and this vehicle doesn't have a smell. Actually runs better than most I've ever owned.

I am going to spray the engine down after this weather system passes so that way once cleaned up, I won't kick up some road grime and I can get an accurate assessment. Is Simple Green a safe cleaner to use to clean up the engine bay? I have noticed it a couple of times, just don't know the accuracy of those posters.

 

Yes. Do your washing with engine running, so you can stop soaking if it starts sputtering. Avoid the black plastic box toward rear of passenger fenderwall that holds the engine computer.

 

Okay, I have an issue that I feel like a moron asking, but when I changed my oil, I followed the recommended steps:

1. Remove drain plug and drain
2. After draining, replaced plug
3. Put in 6 quarts (it holds 7 correct?)
4. Removed old oil filter
5. Filled new oil filter 3/4ths full, rubbed oil on rubber gasket
6. put the remaining portion of the 7th quart into the vehicle.

I understand it is best to let it sit overnight before checking, so I did that and today, the dipstick doesn't show anything on it, but a slight bit of oil. I have double checked and I do not have any leaks associated with the new change (filter is on correctly as well as the drain plug).

When I started the LR the oil light was on but went out quickly (within a second or two). What is going on? I have changed oil before in my 4runner and previous vehicles, but never have I ever ran into such a situation.

 

Did you start the engine after changing the oil and then let it sit overnight?
Yes it takes 7 quarts, if you used a oversized oil filter you will need to add more than 7qts of oil.

I do it different, I run the passenger side up onto the ramps, both wheels.
Remove drain plug, while its draining I grease both propshafts and u-joints.
Replace drain plug, change oil filter, I dont put oil ion it first, to messy with gal jugs of oil.
Then I add 7qts of oil, close the hood, back her off the ramps, let her idle while I take care of my tools, **** her off and go back inside and clean up.

 

Spike, I did start it up following the seventh quart. Then I also started it after checking it today. I just don't understand it. I don't smell anything, there isn't smoke coming out of the vehicle, there isn't any leaks anywhere. Should I take the dipstick out to allow the oil to snake up the dipstick?

 

The motor is full of sludge and occluded oil pathways. You have a very, very serious problem and if you want to keep the truck your looking at the very minimum a motor rebuild. You won't save the motor, the damage is done. High mileage, ill maintained motors don't run for long. Before you spin a bearing or a need a new crank because of the common warpage and journal tolerances that won't pass a regrind stop driving it and think about what this truck means to you. Sorry for the bad news......

It is not best to sit overnight for all oil drain to it's pan. 10 minutes, measure and top off. Evidence your not a motor mechanic by trade, hobby or natural inclination. It really doesn't matter at this point anyways....just sets the path to restore it.

 

So is the thought that the valve covers are full of oil, because the oil galleys are sludged up, can't drain back except too slowly? If oil is not in the oil pan, then there are not a lot of places you can hide that quantity other than the valve cover spaces. It would be possible to pull off covers and rod out the galley. Some solvent, like BG treatment, could also help.