New to me Disco Fixes - Do these sound normal?
#21
02-27-2012 | 03:40 PM
TReK
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 6
From: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
Haha don't worry about the Habour Freight, I'm from Canada so that doesn't really apply to me anyways. I have read what everyone here posted, and it echos another forum as well. I guess the most prevalent phrase I have heard is 'if you can't wrench yourself, get out of Land Rovers', but that seems to be the sentiment from almost every enthusiast forum were offroad SUV's are concerned. The Jeep, Toyota, Nissan crowd have kind of all said the same thing. So it would appear that there are no real off road options for a guy who is just learning to work on the car, as they are kind of abruptly told that if they cannot do pretty highly technical work NOW, they have to sell. Tough luck sort of thing.
Danny Lee, I imagine there are alot of people who do that, hell I was one of them a couple weeks ago. Shortly after finding out that it needed two grand in repairs from the first mechanic I took it too, I turned around and try to sell it. Turns out that didn't go so well, as its still sitting in the driveway. I had to concentrate on selling my other car, which needed to go anyways vis a vis the original plan so the Rover took the backseat for a couple weeks. Now hearing that it will probably need at least 2500$ in parts alone, even if I was able to fix all of it myself, its doubly as steep as that. My dad had figured if I wanted to get work done by the Rover shop I should take it in within a week so that the guy doesn't totally forget everything we discussed that was wrong with it. There is still the option of selling it, hell the Rover guy said if I sold it to him he could fix it with those parts and sell it for 20 grand because its SO clean, so maybe I should just unload it and walk away.
Still kind of unsure what to do, as I do have the money to fix all of it now by the shop doing it but with gas prices where they are, (1.37/L for 89 octane) it could all just be a moot point. And I guess its just tough to hear that if I can't do ALL the work myself, I'm a dumbass for buying a rover. I'm still young (21) so I'm still bad at making big decisions involving lots of money. I can see myself leaving it in the driveway as is and taking the bus until late april when school ends and then trying to figure out what to do, i don't know. Thanks for all your help guys, its much appreciated.
Danny Lee, I imagine there are alot of people who do that, hell I was one of them a couple weeks ago. Shortly after finding out that it needed two grand in repairs from the first mechanic I took it too, I turned around and try to sell it. Turns out that didn't go so well, as its still sitting in the driveway. I had to concentrate on selling my other car, which needed to go anyways vis a vis the original plan so the Rover took the backseat for a couple weeks. Now hearing that it will probably need at least 2500$ in parts alone, even if I was able to fix all of it myself, its doubly as steep as that. My dad had figured if I wanted to get work done by the Rover shop I should take it in within a week so that the guy doesn't totally forget everything we discussed that was wrong with it. There is still the option of selling it, hell the Rover guy said if I sold it to him he could fix it with those parts and sell it for 20 grand because its SO clean, so maybe I should just unload it and walk away.
Still kind of unsure what to do, as I do have the money to fix all of it now by the shop doing it but with gas prices where they are, (1.37/L for 89 octane) it could all just be a moot point. And I guess its just tough to hear that if I can't do ALL the work myself, I'm a dumbass for buying a rover. I'm still young (21) so I'm still bad at making big decisions involving lots of money. I can see myself leaving it in the driveway as is and taking the bus until late april when school ends and then trying to figure out what to do, i don't know. Thanks for all your help guys, its much appreciated.
Having the option of taking the bus will help a lot. If that is the case, and you have the patience, then by all means go for it. We will be more than happy to assist you via internet-land as you go along.
#22
02-27-2012 | 04:06 PM
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
It would still be a good vehicle to learn to wrench on IF you have another vehicle as a daily driver. As for fixing it and selling for $20k, that's BS. I think that with about $200-300 in basic tools, a warm, dry place to work, and $1k in parts, you could have it up and going fairly reliably, just not 100% done. Then you spend another $1k over the course of a year to fix the rest as you go along.
Having the option of taking the bus will help a lot. If that is the case, and you have the patience, then by all means go for it. We will be more than happy to assist you via internet-land as you go along.
Having the option of taking the bus will help a lot. If that is the case, and you have the patience, then by all means go for it. We will be more than happy to assist you via internet-land as you go along.
#23
02-27-2012 | 04:10 PM
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 162
Likes: 5
Go back and re-read my first post. Your truck probably does NOT need $2000 in parts.
From what you originally posted, the only really expensive parts are your brake calipers-and even those aren't that expensive.
These trucks are really pretty easy to fix (don't tell me clients though!) and once you get into it, you'll find it gets easier every time you do something with it.
As much as the Canadian shipping is a PITA, I do ship parts to Canada on a regular basis.
ptschram.com
From what you originally posted, the only really expensive parts are your brake calipers-and even those aren't that expensive.
These trucks are really pretty easy to fix (don't tell me clients though!) and once you get into it, you'll find it gets easier every time you do something with it.
As much as the Canadian shipping is a PITA, I do ship parts to Canada on a regular basis.
ptschram.com
#24
02-27-2012 | 04:34 PM
TReK
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 6
From: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
So to pass inspection, you need rear brakes done, rear shocks, wipers,...anything else to pass inspection only?
Rear brakes are going to set you back $200 plus shipping.
Rear shocks will be $110 plus shipping.
Radiator is $1000 for automatic, $500 for manual plus shipping.
Wiper switch is $170 plus shipping.
Ignition switch is $130 plus shipping.
Those are all from Atlantic British site.
Could be found for less, especially if you get good, used switches from Paul Grant or a salvage yard. Same goes for the radiator or have it repaired at a rad shop. All are fairly easy repair jobs in your driveway.
Rear brakes are going to set you back $200 plus shipping.
Rear shocks will be $110 plus shipping.
Radiator is $1000 for automatic, $500 for manual plus shipping.
Wiper switch is $170 plus shipping.
Ignition switch is $130 plus shipping.
Those are all from Atlantic British site.
Could be found for less, especially if you get good, used switches from Paul Grant or a salvage yard. Same goes for the radiator or have it repaired at a rad shop. All are fairly easy repair jobs in your driveway.
#25
02-27-2012 | 04:36 PM
TReK
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 6
From: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
#26
02-27-2012 | 04:46 PM
Thread Starter
|
4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
So to pass inspection, you need rear brakes done, rear shocks, wipers,...anything else to pass inspection only?
Rear brakes are going to set you back $200 plus shipping. Does this include rotors/pads/rebuilding the calipers on both sides?
Rear shocks will be $110 plus shipping.
Radiator is $1000 for automatic, $500 for manual plus shipping.The guy said he knew a place to get it rebuilt for 500$, I have an auto, but yes this isn't a safety thing
Wiper switch is $170 plus shipping.Yes, but the issue is an idiot mechanic up north bodged a wiring fix into the system to have an on/off switch that sets the washer on just one setting. So i could have to replace the wiper switch and then pull out all the wiring to find his bodge, hopefully fix that and then rewire it up to work, and hopefully the washers work.
Ignition switch is $130 plus shipping. The issue here is the ignition cylinder itself, though which isn't an issue for safety, but could stop working down the road. which would be like 600$ to replace if i choose to do that.
The other issues are, some of the lights on the rear of the truck are either dim or don't work. Probably an earthing/bulb holder issue. Also there is a thumb sized star on the windshield. First two mechanics said no dice for the safety, rover guy didn't seem bothered. By the actual safety regulations its passable because its not in the path of the blade or vision of the driver. Also, neither the rear wiper/washer work so that would have to be fixed as well. It is more these electrical/fiddly bit things that i would have no idea how to fix, the parts like shocks/plugs/wires/thermostat/housing/hoses don't seem bad
Those are all from Atlantic British site.
Could be found for less, especially if you get good, used switches from Paul Grant or a salvage yard. Same goes for the radiator or have it repaired at a rad shop. All are fairly easy repair jobs in your driveway.
Rear brakes are going to set you back $200 plus shipping. Does this include rotors/pads/rebuilding the calipers on both sides?
Rear shocks will be $110 plus shipping.
Radiator is $1000 for automatic, $500 for manual plus shipping.The guy said he knew a place to get it rebuilt for 500$, I have an auto, but yes this isn't a safety thing
Wiper switch is $170 plus shipping.Yes, but the issue is an idiot mechanic up north bodged a wiring fix into the system to have an on/off switch that sets the washer on just one setting. So i could have to replace the wiper switch and then pull out all the wiring to find his bodge, hopefully fix that and then rewire it up to work, and hopefully the washers work.
Ignition switch is $130 plus shipping. The issue here is the ignition cylinder itself, though which isn't an issue for safety, but could stop working down the road. which would be like 600$ to replace if i choose to do that.
The other issues are, some of the lights on the rear of the truck are either dim or don't work. Probably an earthing/bulb holder issue. Also there is a thumb sized star on the windshield. First two mechanics said no dice for the safety, rover guy didn't seem bothered. By the actual safety regulations its passable because its not in the path of the blade or vision of the driver. Also, neither the rear wiper/washer work so that would have to be fixed as well. It is more these electrical/fiddly bit things that i would have no idea how to fix, the parts like shocks/plugs/wires/thermostat/housing/hoses don't seem bad
Those are all from Atlantic British site.
Could be found for less, especially if you get good, used switches from Paul Grant or a salvage yard. Same goes for the radiator or have it repaired at a rad shop. All are fairly easy repair jobs in your driveway.
#27
02-27-2012 | 04:56 PM
TReK
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 6
From: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
Rear brake kit from AB for $200 includes rotors, pads, and caliper rebuild hardware.
Replace the wiper switch yourself, then, if you can't immediately find the wiring solution, take it to a good shop.
Buy a good, used tumbler and then swap the inards so it uses your original key.
As for the other electrical issues(lights), start cleaning your grounds. Also inspect your bulb sockets for corrosion.
Replace the wiper switch yourself, then, if you can't immediately find the wiring solution, take it to a good shop.
Buy a good, used tumbler and then swap the inards so it uses your original key.
As for the other electrical issues(lights), start cleaning your grounds. Also inspect your bulb sockets for corrosion.
#28
02-27-2012 | 04:59 PM
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 162
Likes: 5
#29
02-27-2012 | 05:06 PM
Thread Starter
|
4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I can get brandy new radiators for $475 plus shipping from me to you.
Calipers are at worst $150/ea. Brand new.
Shocks are only $40 ea.
Reading my posts might help. I can only do so much here.
I just got a shipment in this morning from the UK, Might have another one later this week.
Calipers are at worst $150/ea. Brand new.
Shocks are only $40 ea.
Reading my posts might help. I can only do so much here.
I just got a shipment in this morning from the UK, Might have another one later this week.
#30
02-27-2012 | 05:27 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 267
Likes: 4
From: Southwest CT
Do not sell your Disco! If you purchase the brake parts from PT, and take the mechanics offer of working on it on weekends you will not only save money but you will learn.
To change the rotors the hubs need to come off anyway, so do the calipers. You will be replacing the calipers and pads, and the wheel bearings can be repacked when the hubs are off. Not sure why the shop mentioned that like it was a separate job since the only way to get the rotors off is by pulling the hub and bearings.
Shocks are just nuts and bolts, easy stuff. Don't struggle if they don't come off easily, have them cut off. The new ones are simple to bolt on.
The wiper switches often give you issues because the grease dries out and the contacts don't move freely. You may be able to clear it up with contact cleaner, or you may need to pull it out and pop it open. There are not any parts that will go flying, so you just clean it up, put some electrical grease in it and snap it back together. The "Bodge" shouldn't be a bad fix, if the person who did it was not able to repair it correctly I doubt they were stealthy. They probably tied into the most accessible wires and they will stick out like a sore thumb. You have the RAVE, the ETM has all the wiring schematics that show you where everything goes.
The lights are all minor stuff. Contact cleaner and a scotchbrite pad to clean up the connections. And check that the correct bulbs are in each socket. Use a bit of the electrical grease in the sockets after you clean them and you should be good for a long time.
You can try flushing the cooling system out to get rid of the gunk, or just pull the radiator out and have a shop boil it out. I would not use any "cooling system flush" products that may invite problems. I would flush the system out with a garden hose until it runs clean, then replace the coolant and bleed the system. If you decide to pull the radiator you will want new O rings for the cooler lines. The gunk in the radiator can probably be cleared up, plug the cooler connection so water doesn't get in. Then lay it down flat with the hose connections facing up and filling it with vinegar and water 50/50 mix. Let it sit for several hours, drain and flush both directions with a garden hose.
You have a brain, use it. There is plenty of info on the web, with almost every aspect of repairing these trucks explained. Don't give up on it just because you are inexperienced, you have to start somewhere to gain experience.
To change the rotors the hubs need to come off anyway, so do the calipers. You will be replacing the calipers and pads, and the wheel bearings can be repacked when the hubs are off. Not sure why the shop mentioned that like it was a separate job since the only way to get the rotors off is by pulling the hub and bearings.
Shocks are just nuts and bolts, easy stuff. Don't struggle if they don't come off easily, have them cut off. The new ones are simple to bolt on.
The wiper switches often give you issues because the grease dries out and the contacts don't move freely. You may be able to clear it up with contact cleaner, or you may need to pull it out and pop it open. There are not any parts that will go flying, so you just clean it up, put some electrical grease in it and snap it back together. The "Bodge" shouldn't be a bad fix, if the person who did it was not able to repair it correctly I doubt they were stealthy. They probably tied into the most accessible wires and they will stick out like a sore thumb. You have the RAVE, the ETM has all the wiring schematics that show you where everything goes.
The lights are all minor stuff. Contact cleaner and a scotchbrite pad to clean up the connections. And check that the correct bulbs are in each socket. Use a bit of the electrical grease in the sockets after you clean them and you should be good for a long time.
You can try flushing the cooling system out to get rid of the gunk, or just pull the radiator out and have a shop boil it out. I would not use any "cooling system flush" products that may invite problems. I would flush the system out with a garden hose until it runs clean, then replace the coolant and bleed the system. If you decide to pull the radiator you will want new O rings for the cooler lines. The gunk in the radiator can probably be cleared up, plug the cooler connection so water doesn't get in. Then lay it down flat with the hose connections facing up and filling it with vinegar and water 50/50 mix. Let it sit for several hours, drain and flush both directions with a garden hose.
You have a brain, use it. There is plenty of info on the web, with almost every aspect of repairing these trucks explained. Don't give up on it just because you are inexperienced, you have to start somewhere to gain experience.