New Member
Hello from Alaska everyone. I bought a 97 Disco back in October of 11'. So far I love love love this truck, but it is quickly becoming a love hate relationship. It has 118k on the tach, starts everytime, shifts good runs goold but here is a list of all the issues i have noticed so far. As far as i can tell the previous owner used it for anything but offroad, the rear seats seem like they have never been sat in and there is some sort of mount sticking out of the tranny hull, it also came with an old motorola modem thing, actuall called motorola and gave them the part number to help me identify the part and they couldnt. so here is the list so far
Alternator Bearing went out - easy fix, new alternator on order
rear windows only roll down sometimes from either rear or front controls
Windshield wipers sometimes do not work or will stick halfway thru cycle. only way to get them to complete cycle is to turn on the blinker.
Diff lock - Last time it took me forever to get it to disengage tried it today and it is stuck engaged again. Lever moves freely left to right, will pop in gear in high or unlock but will not disengage. I can tell by the light and tight turns can feel the tires trying to catch themselves.
Washed truck once and radio would radomly shut off - no idea what is causing this.
Tachometer does not work at idle or driving always at 1000rpm unless i rev the engine then it jumps up really high.
sometimes have issue especiall on longer drives where the engine will fell like its losing power or bogging down, will have to pull of throw in neutral and floor it to get it to run properly again but this has only happened 3 times.
roof leaks during heavy rain, or when there is a lot of snow on roof and it melts. Water drips down from headliner right abover the driver side dash. bought some of that aerosol rubber in a can and going to spray around where the stock sd rack mounts to roof.
Changing oil tomorrow, put on new wiper blades and thats about it. I work on the north slope oil fields so im only home 2 weeks at a time.
I'd appreciate any input on any of the issues listed above. I am going to try the driving backwards trick tonight to unwind the diff lock. Thanks again and hope to hear from you all soon!
Alternator Bearing went out - easy fix, new alternator on order
rear windows only roll down sometimes from either rear or front controls
Windshield wipers sometimes do not work or will stick halfway thru cycle. only way to get them to complete cycle is to turn on the blinker.
Diff lock - Last time it took me forever to get it to disengage tried it today and it is stuck engaged again. Lever moves freely left to right, will pop in gear in high or unlock but will not disengage. I can tell by the light and tight turns can feel the tires trying to catch themselves.
Washed truck once and radio would radomly shut off - no idea what is causing this.
Tachometer does not work at idle or driving always at 1000rpm unless i rev the engine then it jumps up really high.
sometimes have issue especiall on longer drives where the engine will fell like its losing power or bogging down, will have to pull of throw in neutral and floor it to get it to run properly again but this has only happened 3 times.
roof leaks during heavy rain, or when there is a lot of snow on roof and it melts. Water drips down from headliner right abover the driver side dash. bought some of that aerosol rubber in a can and going to spray around where the stock sd rack mounts to roof.
Changing oil tomorrow, put on new wiper blades and thats about it. I work on the north slope oil fields so im only home 2 weeks at a time.
I'd appreciate any input on any of the issues listed above. I am going to try the driving backwards trick tonight to unwind the diff lock. Thanks again and hope to hear from you all soon!
Alternator Bearing went out - easy fix, new alternator on order [ this will fix the tach problem as well, alternator dying]
rear windows only roll down sometimes from either rear or front controls [look for posts on a crack in circuit board of the window control unit, in tech area of D1 forum]
Windshield wipers sometimes do not work or will stick halfway thru cycle. only way to get them to complete cycle is to turn on the blinker. [bad wiper motor]
Diff lock - Last time it took me forever to get it to disengage tried it today and it is stuck engaged again. Lever moves freely left to right, will pop in gear in high or unlock but will not disengage. I can tell by the light and tight turns can feel the tires trying to catch themselves. [you may have some relief by removing CDL shifter and boot above the console, and using a can of PB Blaster and a long spray straw. Work the straw down just beside the shaft for the shift ****, thru the shift pattern plates and inside the lower boot. Hose the linkage you can see, and exercise it]
Washed truck once and radio would radomly shut off - no idea what is causing this.
[ECU is in a plastic box on passenger fenderwall near washer bottle - wil need to be weather proofed]
Tachometer does not work at idle or driving always at 1000rpm unless i rev the engine then it jumps up really high. [new alternator will fix]
sometimes have issue especiall on longer drives where the engine will fell like its losing power or bogging down, will have to pull of throw in neutral and floor it to get it to run properly again but this has only happened 3 times. wires
roof leaks during heavy rain, or when there is a lot of snow on roof and it melts. Water drips down from headliner right abover the driver side dash. bought some of that aerosol rubber in a can and going to spray around where the stock sd rack mounts to roof. [may also be edge of windshield not sealing]
rear windows only roll down sometimes from either rear or front controls [look for posts on a crack in circuit board of the window control unit, in tech area of D1 forum]
Windshield wipers sometimes do not work or will stick halfway thru cycle. only way to get them to complete cycle is to turn on the blinker. [bad wiper motor]
Diff lock - Last time it took me forever to get it to disengage tried it today and it is stuck engaged again. Lever moves freely left to right, will pop in gear in high or unlock but will not disengage. I can tell by the light and tight turns can feel the tires trying to catch themselves. [you may have some relief by removing CDL shifter and boot above the console, and using a can of PB Blaster and a long spray straw. Work the straw down just beside the shaft for the shift ****, thru the shift pattern plates and inside the lower boot. Hose the linkage you can see, and exercise it]
Washed truck once and radio would radomly shut off - no idea what is causing this.
[ECU is in a plastic box on passenger fenderwall near washer bottle - wil need to be weather proofed]
Tachometer does not work at idle or driving always at 1000rpm unless i rev the engine then it jumps up really high. [new alternator will fix]
sometimes have issue especiall on longer drives where the engine will fell like its losing power or bogging down, will have to pull of throw in neutral and floor it to get it to run properly again but this has only happened 3 times. wires
roof leaks during heavy rain, or when there is a lot of snow on roof and it melts. Water drips down from headliner right abover the driver side dash. bought some of that aerosol rubber in a can and going to spray around where the stock sd rack mounts to roof. [may also be edge of windshield not sealing]
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Apr 16, 2012 at 10:41 PM.
You may have to remove the headliner to determine the cause of the leak. The Discovery had so many leaks that LR put out a document to the dealers about them.
There are drain tubes on each sunroof that may be clogged or cracked. The corners of the sunroof frames can leak and need to be resoldered.
Lots of other water ingress points.
Lots of info on getting your CDL to work properly, it usually rquires console removal to get to the root of those.
There are drain tubes on each sunroof that may be clogged or cracked. The corners of the sunroof frames can leak and need to be resoldered.
Lots of other water ingress points.
Lots of info on getting your CDL to work properly, it usually rquires console removal to get to the root of those.
wow thanks for the info gents. I do not have the sun roof in my disco and will try the cdl fix you mentioned. does it matter that the tach did not work before the bearings went out on the alternator?
The tach gets an electronic signal of pulses on the smallest wire that clips on back of alternator. It counts those to display the rpm. When alternator starts going bad, that signal drops away. Could have happened before it got to bearings. Usually just stops charging battery fully as well.
Here is a document that Slang turned us onto regarding multiple leak paths.




Land Rover Discovery Water Ingress Manual
So you've got your Land Rover Discovery and you have found a water leak into the vehicle; Welcome to Land Rover Ownership!! Very soon after buying my Discovery, which is my first Land Rover, I was told that if it doesn't leak then its not a Land Rover.
After finding water in the rear loadspace I was more than a little annoyed that this expensive vehicle could be leaking. I posted a question to the LRE Forum and received many helpful replies which served to educate me that such faults are indeed just another part of the characteristics of Land Rover Ownership, something that I have come to accept.
It became apparent that every Discovery leaks from somewhere, it is just a question of in how many places!! Below are the LR 'fix sheets' for the water ingress into the Discovery. I followed the sheets and have cured the water ingress into the rear loadspace, which was the only problem area on my vehicle. I have since discovered a leak into the front passenger footwell, although only onto the mat and only when I wash the vehicle. Obviously that is my mistake; washing it!!
just took my disco out and drove in reverse for about 300 yds slowly accelerating. Tried the dif lock and it seem like it disengaged. I made several tight turns and the tires are not skipping on the pavement like they would if it was locked but the light failed to turn off. I drove it around my block a few times made more tight turns including full circles and still no tire skipping but light still on. When you engage or disengae the lock in the high positions, lower left or lower right shoud the stick return to center and have left to right play? If i am confising anyone or not explaing this clearly let me know and I can put up a video of what i think is happening.
So changed the alternator out today, and changed the oil. Running great, dif lock light still on, took to LR service center, tech was able to wiggle cdl stick andf said yeah, there is def something not right so im bringing it by in the morning to have it looked at hopefully will be either a fix i can do myself or not a too expensive one. will keep you all updated. Any one have any reccomendations for front bumper ofr lamps?
Do a search on CDL Shifter Stuck, there are tons of details there.
Look at the Rovers North Website and go thru their pages on the DI Driveline. They have the best exploded views showing it all.
The selector plate at the bottom of the flimsy linkages rotates ccw to engage the Diff lock by moving the yoke internal to the transfer case. CW rotation unlocks it.
The light is turned on by the CDL Switch that has a spring loaded plunger that applies a ground to the light when the yoke is in the locked position. If that plunger sticks it will affect the functionality of the light.
I had to totally tear mine down and replace several small cheap pieces and replace the switch to restore functionality to mine. The linkages tend to bind because they are exposed to all the elements due to the open bottom.
Look at the Rovers North Website and go thru their pages on the DI Driveline. They have the best exploded views showing it all.
The selector plate at the bottom of the flimsy linkages rotates ccw to engage the Diff lock by moving the yoke internal to the transfer case. CW rotation unlocks it.
The light is turned on by the CDL Switch that has a spring loaded plunger that applies a ground to the light when the yoke is in the locked position. If that plunger sticks it will affect the functionality of the light.
I had to totally tear mine down and replace several small cheap pieces and replace the switch to restore functionality to mine. The linkages tend to bind because they are exposed to all the elements due to the open bottom.












