Hi Guys,

Seems that my $1200.00 Rover was really worth less - Especially if I need to dump 2500-4500 in for a new transmission.

I got into the Rig this morning for a short drive Less then 5 miles round trip - Stopped at a light and when it turned green I had to go nearly 3000 RPM to get her moving - Then when I got home I put the rig in reverse and nothing - Sat for a minute and then reverse kicked in.

Called AAMCO and they said they'd do the "FREE" diagnostics but it would likely cost 2500-4500 to repair -

I am not a tranny guy - Every other part of a vehicle I understand and can work on - For some reason the transmission intimidates me - Maybe I shouldn't be intimidated -

In any case, I am not very trusting of Mechanics in general especially if I don't fully understand the problem - So I readily expect to be treated like a deer in headlights and accept what is happening. Though I can't afford the 2500 so the rover will sit - for quite a long time...

So here I am asking -

Do you think it's a filter issue? Or is this the early stages of a damaged dieing transmission?
I had a similar problem on my old chevy nova (77) - I pulled the pan replaced the filter and fluids - Walla - the chevy was back on the road like nothing happened.

Any insight is highly appreciated.

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

First make new gaskets but only with the special silicone others promote.

Oh, I'm sorry, wrong thread.

I feel your pain. If you've had good experience in the past changing the filter and flushing the transmission fluid give it a go. It certainly isn't going to hurt. I'd be willing to bet that the filter has never been changed on your truck and is long due.

I am not, in any way, saying that this is certain to cure your problem. But given the choice between a $2500 trip to Aamco and $100 fluid change.....

Now should you, in fact, need a transmission, there are plenty of people, myself included, who part out these trucks and offer warranties on the parts sold. A DI transmission can be had for $500 or less depending on mileage. Installation shouldn't take more than 5-6 hours (if I get a chance I'll look up shop times for the repair) and requires no real special knowledge. The ZF transmission was a fairly common unit among imports in the late 1980's and 1990's. I'm sure you can find a mechanic in your area that would do the work for a lot less than Aamco.

 

Can't hurt to try a filter and fluid change. Have you tried pricing a good used tranny? As for repairs, it sounds like the reverse/low clutch.

Power flow
1st gear D selected
With D selected 1st gear engaged, clutches 4 and 11 are operative. The front planet gear carrier of gear set 9 is
locked against the housing through freewheel 15 when the engine is pulling but freewheels when the vehicle is
coasting. Epicyclic gear set 10 rotates as a solid unit with the front planet gear carrier. In selector position 1 with
1st gear engaged, clutch 8 operates to prevent the loss of drive on the overrun through freewheel 15, to provide
engine braking.

Reverse gear
Clutches 5, 8 and 11 are engaged. Since the front planet gear carrier of epicyclic gear set 9 is locked, the direction
of output-shaft rotation is reversed. Epicyclic gear set 10 also rotates as a solid block.

According to RAVE, they share clutch 11(you will need to open the RAVE to page 422 for more detailed info.)

 

Don't waist time with the filter and fluid right now. Due to the summer and added heat on old tranny's it is more likely a solenoid went bad. The pressure control solenoid is mounted inside the transmission on the valve body. Have all the solenoids tested before you make any decisions.

 

OK, so much for all the guessing.
Have you even checked your tranny fluid level, do you know how? Is your check engine light on?

 

Everything he said. Tranny dipstick is the red **** on pass side of engine. Mine says to check with the engine cold, idling in nuetral.

 

Disco Mike,
As for ever checking the dipstick - I checked it when I bought it - 3 months ago - It was level and looked not quite as red as "new fluid" looks - though at the time, even know, and unsure if the fluid in a LR Disco is red - In any case, I've only had the truck for 3 month - It only has 96k in miles on her - figure the PO probably didn't do much maint on the Tranny, and had planned to do a filter fluid change. Just not quite this soon. - The Check Engine Light is NOT on.

Chris-Bob,
UMM Thanks for the information regarding the RAVE Pages - I will look at them - Hopefully it will help me understand what you wrote - cause when I read what you wrote I had no clue what you're saying - I know a little about the innards of a tranny. Mostly that there are innards and they need fluid to work (LAUGH).

LRD2&ME,
I will definitely see if I can get the silonoids tested..

I appreaciate everyones input!!!

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

Before spending some serious money, do a drqain and refill of the tranny, throw in a bottle of Lucas Tranny Stop Leak which can free up th internal of the tranny. If that doesn't work, start looking for a good guaranteed used tranny which will be a lot cheaper then paying to have it rebuilt.

 

Disco Mike,

Definitely appreciate your input - The cheapest way at the moment, as you suggest, to do the drain and refil including the additive.

I am a little concerned with the heat issue too at LRD2&ME mentions - I figured that there would be a LOT more life on a 96k Transmission - But then, that assumes the PO took care of the rig.

Thanks again guys!!!

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

Wow, why is everyones solution to just change the fluid and filter. New fliud vs old fluid travel the same course. Perform a few simple tests first. 1. check for codes. 2. Perform a torque converter stall test. 3. You have to make sure your solenoids are working. Common faults in transmissions is solenoid malfunction. Think about. You have electric coils submerged in HOT, HOT oil that malfunction. Electrical components hate heat. Any pressure loss would be a check on the pressure control solenoid first. Has anyone actually looked at a transmission that used LUCAS seal. Well for your information it gums up all the check valves and ports. NO ADDITIVES. Oil has natural and man made cleaners already in it.