LRD2&ME,

I do understand what you're saying - I don't know anything about those tests you mention - maybe you could provide a link or more insight on them?
As far as doing a Solenoid test -
Can that be done at home?
Require removal of the Transmission?
Or should I pay AAMCO or other Tranmission shop to do the work?

Thanks,

In Peace and Agape,
Trav....

 

What you should do first after checking the fluid level, check the wire harness to make sure everything is connected good. Disconnect the leads and re-connect. Sometimes it isn't always a mechanical problem but a simple wire connection problem. Think about your malfunction. You have reverse right. Well good this tells us your torque converter is working. Also with having reverse working is common because it is the lowest gear in the tranny. The fault is pressure. The pressure contriol solenoid is either stuck or not working to allow fluid pressure to pass. Play with the transmission electrical harness and then try the transmission. To test the solenoid you will either need to take to a shop or drop your tranny pan and visual check out each solenoid. You can remove them and clean them, check and apply voltage to each of them in under 2 hours to determine where the fault is. A scanner at a tranny shop will tell you if any of the solenoids are bad. Usually for free.

 

For the love of Pete take two minutes and check the fluid level now.

 

LRD2&ME,

Thanks so very much for your input. It is highly appreciated - I do have reverse, if I am patient and wait for it to kick in. Which, in my mind, suggests that there is something going on with the fluid pressure.

Does the Electrical harness connect to the solenoids? Or is there some other connection to the Harness/Tranmission that might also cause the transmission to be slow to respond and almost not completely engagde reverse?

In regards to the testing of the solenoid. Do I need to remove them and take them to a shop? I am guessing that a Transmission shop would want the 250.00 to do the Filter/Fluid service and may or may not test the solenoid for free - 250.00 is what AAMCO charges to do the Filter/Fluid job.

One shop I called recommended some tranmission additive that might help.

Anyone have any good luck with additives? Any recommendations?

Thanks again,

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

FishEH,

Thanks for your help.. It is highly appreciated.. .

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

Unless your fluid is low or missing, do not touch it as of yet. Call around for a transmission shop to scan it. Tell them you have a possible pressure control solenoid malfunction. The parts are not expensive. They do not take long to change out. Do not let the shops talk you into a transmission flush or any other non-sense service. If you do have them replace one of the solenoids, make sure you ask for the used part back. Always keep your parts and test them yourself. Often times mechanics remove good parts and charge you for it. Your problem could be as simple as lost electric connection or intermittant. The solenoids share a common ground. Could be loss of ground. Either way ask for a free diagnosis with no service until they are sure what the problem is. You can perform all of the valve body repairs with simple tools yourself. You can learn alot and save money.

 

Ok, to set the record straight THERE ARE NO ELECTRONICS IN THE DI TRANSMISSION!
It is a mechanical transmission, meaning old school, like that of a '77 Nova.
The ZF tranny in the DI is bullet proof if well maintained.
There will be a valve body inside the transmission, but you need to remove the pan and filter to reach it, it may be dirty and not letting fluid get to the proper area's or not let it build up enough fluid pressure.
Change the fluid and filter, that is the best place to start.
If you want you can remove the valve body (so I've been told) and have it cleaned/tested.
If that does not work you are out short money, then you can try the last ditch additives to try and free things up.
If that then does not work you are still only out short money and you can look into a used tranny from Paul.
Just watch out for STD's, I've heard tranny's are full of them, just ask Eddie Murphy.

 

In a previous career, I worked for a worthless sales manager who had been a regional manager for that chain of transmission shops. He told me that their cost of parts was about the same for any brand, and the labor very close. But they charged "X" for a Ford or Chevy, and "4X" for a Mercedes, because those owners could afford it. I would suggest an indy shop over those guys.

 

Spike and Savannah,

I hear you both and definitely appreciate your input!!!

I am fairly old school when it comes to my cars and unless the job requires tools I don't have - Like doing the bearings on my saturn - I'd much rather do the job myself - and though I am a little deer eyed when it comes to transmissions I'd rather learn something new then pay through the nose to someone else just because it's a "Land Rover" and they think I should be able to afford it. LAUGH -

Fortunately the RIG isn't a daily driver, and my daughter hasn't found a job yet, so I've got time to pull the pan and check out what is going on.

Again - To all that have replied - I appreciate everyones responses - I like to get all the information I can before I start work - Though my kids may say I'm slow, one thing is sure, I get the job done, and done right -

Thanks again!!!

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

My two cents worth, STAY AWAY FROM AAMCO. What they quoted is redickyoulous.

That means they are dicking you twice. 2500 to 4500 what an estimate.

If it is the original fluid, and no filter change, it probably is clogged and nasty inside.

Warm it up and drain it, drop the pan and replace the filter. That certainly cannot be a mistake. If that does not at least make a big difference, then go with the 500 dollar warrantied tranny from Paul Grant.

I do not think miles alone is a major issue when you are dealing with a vehicle that old if the tranny has never been drained and the filter serviced. The age issue also comes into play with all the minute particles that will accumulate over that time span. Just the rubber particles decaying from age can clog it up.

If it does eventually pull at higher rpm's I do not think it is an electrical issue.