The new ones from AllMakes looks like the typical pushrod. I've done a few Jeep heads, and the ball tip haven't had any issues.

The original LR rods do look like the more stout type. The rods on my Hemi have thick shafts and a narrowed down tip, one solid piece, very nice.

The most failures I've seen are the tappets going out. But, on the side putting the engine though the ringer...yes...rods can fail and bend...but, still, I've never seen a "ball" out of place.

 

I have some OEM pushrods here I can compare. One set has 265k on them, the other, 100k. I'll see what the tops look like. Most often on these engines you just want to make sure they are straight. I haven't seen reports of excessive wear, so I don't know how important it is to replace them.

 

My mistake, early am brain fart. I meant to say "guide plates". A lot of engines use guide plates for the push rods to pass through. If he has guide plates from the factory he'll need to modify them unless those new push rods came with a matching set.

Replacing things just for the sake of replacing things doesn't always pan out in ones favor. I do think your new ones will be just fine considering what they are going in, I just have to wonder if you'll see any benefit over what came out of the engine originally. The new ones saying OE but being twice the size makes me wonder. Do they need to be huge because they are half the quality of factory units?

Best of luck man, these things drive me nuts.

 

It all boils down to risk versus reward. Are you willing to take the risk of them failing compared to the reward of saving x amount of dollars now.

A one piece, by it's nature cannot suffer the types of failure a two piece typical can. Not saying it will, but the possibility exist for separation of those two pieces depending upon how well the joining process worked.

It is much cheaper to manufacure the two piece. Will it withstand the enviroment that you will be using it in?

It definitely possesses failure modes that are not present in the original part.

Once again that introduces additional variables and increases the potential for failure.
That is from many years experience in defense industry Manufacturing, Quality and Reliability Engineering work, not a few years working in a car parts store. Opinions are what they are, facts are facts.

I am speaking from a Failure Mode, Effects, and Criticality Analysis perspective.

Damn what words for a redneck to use. Plain simple language, "Those ain't worth a damn".

Proceed at your own risk. Pay me now or pay me later is what my old boss from LA (Lower Alabama) used to say.

 

The new ones saying OE but being twice the size makes me wonder. Do they need to be huge because they are half the quality of factory units?

May be that they are hollow tubes?

Again, I would not advocate their use. But that is just my learned opinion. Take it as you may.

Will they replace your engine if their parts cause failure? Is it worth saving the original difference if it wipes it out soon.

 

Which store and who's parts? They are lots of different manufacturers producing everything from junk to high quality parts. More junk these days since the "Global Economy" and outsourcing to cheapest source has become the norm.

They may "look fine", but that still does not mean they are truly equivalent.

Critical things like material used, process controls, true to design requirements are not always obvious. However, a two piece like the one he got compared to a one piece original introduces a whole new realm of variables into the mix.

Three Critical Factors are Form. Fit, and Function. Those are a different form, they do not fit properly, so it fails the first two before you even get to evaluate function. Your stated opinion of: "looks just fine" is not supported by scientific analysis. I am not trying to critisize you personally, just do not agree with your call.

Maybe they will do, but they do not look just fine to me.

 

Also remember just because it works, does not mean its right. I get the luxury of beating on all types of components and that has given me a hatred for anything short of a 1 piece rod. The tips hardly ever come off but they flatten out easier than you may think under stress or improper adjustment.

Again unless you plan on totally ragging on your engine and pushing it to its limits, they should work. If you go my route and buy a good 1 piece rod though, I can guarantee you next time it tanks it won't be because of pushrod failure.

I'm a little more skeptical of these particular push rods after seeing some of the other garbage they sent you. If they can't even make a proper fitting cam gear it sort of makes me wonder.

 

That cam gear did not even require the usual sample preparation and magnafication to see the porosity issue, it was readily apparent, too bad you went ahead and beat it in place thereby damaging the mating keyway.

That sort of thing should never happen with something that claims to OEM. Allmakes is off of my Approved Procurement Vendor Listing from here on out.

 

Maybe if you close your good eye, they will pass a visual inspection if the candlepower is low enough or you just go by feel.............

 

To the OP,
If you can get the exact length and diameter, comp or a similar company can make you a set of pushrods. They may even have a set for a different motor that matches what you need which is a pretty common occurance. May want to call around and see.