Hello friends,

I have an old trail rig, I have been trying to get started for a few months. It came with a lot of aftermarket wiring, it has the ignition switch separate from the key. I replaced the fuel pump relay underhood.

I realized the fuel pump wasn't getting 12v, so I just jumped the inertia switch to the positive terminal of the battery, now the fuel pump runs - I even checked pressure at the shrader valve. The truck is getting spark though I think the fuel injectors aren't working. When I spray starter fluid in the the throttle body it barely starts for a second. Without starter fluid it doesn't do much. All the relays behind the glove compartment work, though I think the root cause of the problem lies in this area.

There are two wires behind the glove box which are broken, I'm not sure where the other end connects to. The first comes out of the green immobilizer thingie, it's a red wire that someone connected a black wire onto, any idea where this is supposed to go. See the following two pics





Then the other wire is white and purple, meaning fuel pump. It runs in a black sheath, coming from a loom in the rear heading up towards the top of the glove box area




so the wires were originally ripped/cut, I stripped them to check voltage etc. I know this is kind of obscure, but hoping someone has some experience with wiring in the passenger footwell/behind the glovebox area. Of note there is a rust hole down there, so there could be some water etc getting in ruining the electricals, though all the relays click given 12v.

Thanks guys

 

Need to know the year...... kinda relevant.

 

It's a 1998

 

So I checked all the wires with a timing light (I'm old school), 2nd and 3rd spark plugs not firing. I changed the coil (closest to the passenger side), it didn't make a difference. Not sure if the new coil is bad (cheapest one on fleabay), or the coil isn't getting the right input. Any recommendations what to do next?

Thanks

 

Pull out the green box and then remove the large gray connector, there are pin numbers, usually the corners. If you look at it exactly like your picture Pin 1 is top right, pin 14 is top left, 13 is bottom right, 26 is bottom left. Pin 16 should be Purple with White stripe, see if that's attached, it's to all the door locks and the rear door's diode. If it's White with a Purple stripe it's Pin 1 and it's to the Tailgate diode and in loop with the Purple White Pin 16. The Red wire (or pink) should be in pin location 14 but I can't find an object in the wiring diagram for a solid Red wire or what's attached to that pin. It's a frig'n secret. Maybe my good ol buddy OverRover might know.

 

Check the plug wires, plugs. 2 and 3 are fired from two different coils. If you swapped out coils and no change well it might not be the coil. Look for arcing at the coil posts. ECU input wires are four, one per coil, so again it wouldn't float with cylinder 2 and 3 being off two different coils. Ohm the wires against the ones that are working.

 

2 and 3 are the same coil

 

Coil 4, my bad. Try swapping the Fleabay coil with another on the rack. Did it once, it only gets easier with practice. You have the Rave?

 

Yep got the Rave. Is there a way to unbolt the whole rack and pull it out or do I have to fiddle with torx bits and 7/8 mm sockets behind the coil pack?

 

Four bolts coil frame to manifold mount, must undo fuel lines on passenger side and I think something on drivers side besides control plug to pull out. Good to have a magnet to catch the bolts, they’re short. Bear with me I don’t have a Rover anymore but pain is pain. All this futzing is just find out if you two bad coils or one bad coil control line from the ECU. If you find a way around that without swapping coils by all means do so.