Oil Leak? Dissapearing coolant
#1
Oil Leak? Dissapearing coolant
Doing tranny swap, finally got the tranny mated back up (gotta reconnect everything else now still heh...
But during the process I noticed a LOT of oil on the old tranny, as well as the engine seems to be focused at the bottom of the heads (heads seem mostly clean) ... yes I know these things are leakers.
Just curious as to thoughts where this may be coming from...
Coolant also is dissapearing, its not going into the Oil, and not sure bout the exhaust I would like some ideas on how to tell if it is... Or other places to check for leaks
Images:
But during the process I noticed a LOT of oil on the old tranny, as well as the engine seems to be focused at the bottom of the heads (heads seem mostly clean) ... yes I know these things are leakers.
Just curious as to thoughts where this may be coming from...
Coolant also is dissapearing, its not going into the Oil, and not sure bout the exhaust I would like some ideas on how to tell if it is... Or other places to check for leaks
Images:
#4
Yep, the valley pan has a rubber saddle gasket under it (the end seals), with a 13mm head 5/16 bolt in the center. Might snug up. Seals dry out and go brittle, some have posted pix of good sized pieces found in oil pan. You can see the one in front easily.
As for coolant loss, without exhaust smoke or oil contamination that leaves external leak, a pressur tester from theparts store loaner program will pump up syystem to 15 psi and wait 30 minutes for it to show up. The coolant cap can also be wimpy, venting at low pressure while you drive. A paper towel zip tied to the overflow line will show you if it is leaking.
As for coolant loss, without exhaust smoke or oil contamination that leaves external leak, a pressur tester from theparts store loaner program will pump up syystem to 15 psi and wait 30 minutes for it to show up. The coolant cap can also be wimpy, venting at low pressure while you drive. A paper towel zip tied to the overflow line will show you if it is leaking.
#5
I'll look into the valley pan, thats kinda what i was thinking, and thanks for the tip on the overflow...
I have the solid black overflow tank, I believe these are problematic too from what I have heard?
Also, I will be pulling the oil pan shortly.. I decided it is better than fighting with it to get access to the flywheel/flex plate access holes.
Thanks again, as always this forum has been helpful!
Once I get it put back together I'll look into the coolant issues suggested.
I have the solid black overflow tank, I believe these are problematic too from what I have heard?
Also, I will be pulling the oil pan shortly.. I decided it is better than fighting with it to get access to the flywheel/flex plate access holes.
Thanks again, as always this forum has been helpful!
Once I get it put back together I'll look into the coolant issues suggested.
#6
#7
Will do, what flavor of loctite, I have blue and green atm...
and, what do you mean by "re-seal" the end? ..
Noticed some tiny shiny bits in the bottom of the oil pan, seems like its stuck in some heavier sludge than the oil I had in there previously... Gonna clean that all out before re-assembly.
I think someone's been in the oil pan before, seems they used some crappy white looking RTV instead of a gasket
#8
#9
Check your intake manifold bolts, they are known to become loose over time. You may also have coolant seeping at the front or rear of the heads, it's fairly common for the steel shim to rot out from between the upper and lower composite layers of the head gasket. There is not much sealing surface at the water jackets, 3/16" or so. It's not easy to detect if the leak is behind the large bracket that holds the belt tensioner on the passenger side of the front of the engine. Could also be a number of other things, take a good look from underneath and check for wet carpets in case the heater core is going south. FWIW, Land Rover used the crappiest hose clamps money could buy.
The oil leak could be from any number of places on the engine, degrease it and watch it like a hawk.
Get yourself some (2) longer bolts for the oil pan and cut the heads off them. You can use these as guide pins when you put the oil pan back up (cleaned). Do not use a gasket, clean everything completely free of oil and use a fine bead of silicone on the oil pan. Ultra Grey makes it easy to see if you have a oil leak afterwards.
The oil leak could be from any number of places on the engine, degrease it and watch it like a hawk.
Get yourself some (2) longer bolts for the oil pan and cut the heads off them. You can use these as guide pins when you put the oil pan back up (cleaned). Do not use a gasket, clean everything completely free of oil and use a fine bead of silicone on the oil pan. Ultra Grey makes it easy to see if you have a oil leak afterwards.
#10
Check your intake manifold bolts, they are known to become loose over time. You may also have coolant seeping at the front or rear of the heads, it's fairly common for the steel shim to rot out from between the upper and lower composite layers of the head gasket. There is not much sealing surface at the water jackets, 3/16" or so. It's not easy to detect if the leak is behind the large bracket that holds the belt tensioner on the passenger side of the front of the engine. Could also be a number of other things, take a good look from underneath and check for wet carpets in case the heater core is going south. FWIW, Land Rover used the crappiest hose clamps money could buy.
The oil leak could be from any number of places on the engine, degrease it and watch it like a hawk.
Get yourself some (2) longer bolts for the oil pan and cut the heads off them. You can use these as guide pins when you put the oil pan back up (cleaned). Do not use a gasket, clean everything completely free of oil and use a fine bead of silicone on the oil pan. Ultra Grey makes it easy to see if you have a oil leak afterwards.
The oil leak could be from any number of places on the engine, degrease it and watch it like a hawk.
Get yourself some (2) longer bolts for the oil pan and cut the heads off them. You can use these as guide pins when you put the oil pan back up (cleaned). Do not use a gasket, clean everything completely free of oil and use a fine bead of silicone on the oil pan. Ultra Grey makes it easy to see if you have a oil leak afterwards.
More good advice, as I said I think someone had removed the oil pan previously and i guess its apparent.. 2 of the bolts on the front of the engine were just studs with nuts, perfect for the alignment process.
As for the gasket, the one I have almost looks like cork, I imagine I can return it and get more of the RTV. Is the RTV stronger than the gasket typically?
Also my pickup tube had no gasket in place..... Guess I will be ordering one, no local place seems to have them...
Last edited by nuclearw; 07-29-2013 at 04:59 PM.
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