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Oil pan gasket replacement

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Old May 19, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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Post Oil pan gasket replacement

It's time to deal with the moderate oil leak on my disco. Not 100% certain to where the leak/s are coming from but I did take note of the crappy homemade gasket currently installed on the oil pan, obviously its not the original. I'm wondering why the original gasket was removed in the first place. I already ordered a genuine oil pan gasket so what I need to know now:

1.) Any special tools or procedures required when removing the oil pan?
2.) Do oil pan gaskets tend to wear quickly? If so are there any other suggestions while I'm down there?

Here's the crappy gasket
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Old May 19, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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You may need to unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine up for more clearance to remove the pan. I had to do this with my last rover. I suggest using indian head gasket shellack with the pan gasket. You can find this at advanced auto parts. Been using indian head shellack for twenty years and swear by it. Make sure you get a good look at the rear main seal while you are down there. No sylicone, tends to plug things up throughout the engine. Might want to add some more magnets, which will help clean debris from your oil.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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It's def on my list. Stupidly bought this right AFTER I did an oil change though. So I guess I'll wait till next change.
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That's from AB. $9 i think
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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One question, the label states it is for a 3.5 and we all have a 4.0, do not know if it is the same size oil pan and gasket. I ordered mine from Trevor at RovahFarms.

LRD: Was not aware of the gasket shellac, also great idea to add larger magnet to oil pan.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LRD2&ME
You may need to unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine up for more clearance to remove the pan. I had to do this with my last rover. I suggest using indian head gasket shellack with the pan gasket. You can find this at advanced auto parts. Been using indian head shellack for twenty years and swear by it. Make sure you get a good look at the rear main seal while you are down there. No sylicone, tends to plug things up throughout the engine. Might want to add some more magnets, which will help clean debris from your oil.

Might I have enough clerence with the 2"suspension lift? Or is removing the pan impossible without unbolting the mounts and lifting the engine?

Yeah well I'm getting ready for the engine flush and the conversion to diesel oil, luckily I remembered to order the gasket before I even begin the process! I bought a genuine pan gasket from RoversNorth. I'll look into better gaskets later. For now I need to eliminate the oil leak.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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What's involved in the engine flush? I went to monil-1 before I found this forum and it's a lite thin for my liking. I was thinking of going back but I didn't know how to go about it. Think a flush would suffice?
Danny as far as I know that pan gasket works for a bunch of the motors. Eric at AB hooked me up, he knows what I drive so I'm (only) ASSUMING it's right.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
One question, the label states it is for a 3.5 and we all have a 4.0, do not know if it is the same size oil pan and gasket. I ordered mine from Trevor at RovahFarms.

LRD: Was not aware of the gasket shellac, also great idea to add larger magnet to oil pan.
Yep, the mid 80's RRC with twin carbs all the way through the last D1 with EFI all seem to use the same gasket, 602087.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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That makes me feel better.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by turf63
What's involved in the engine flush? I went to monil-1 before I found this forum and it's a lite thin for my liking. I was thinking of going back but I didn't know how to go about it. Think a flush would suffice?
Danny as far as I know that pan gasket works for a bunch of the motors. Eric at AB hooked me up, he knows what I drive so I'm (only) ASSUMING it's right.
Right now I'm following Spike555 advice. Start with engine flush: pour it in, idle engine for around 20 minutes, drain oil, add new oil pan gasket if possible, and refill using diesel oil for now on instead of normal oil.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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Not sure what to expect from an engine flush. Have a missfire that's only getting worse and my engine is old and beat so I'm taking some steps with a tight budget in mind until I can afford to get the engine rebuilt. Started with plugs and wires, new oil new filters - now the engine flush and replacement gasket.
 
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