So...I put about 2000 miles a year on mine...can I change the oil every 2.5 years...

 

I'm not sure how much I drive it either...but not that much in terms of miles.

Really, every 6 months? Geeeze. OK. I never understood how guys could switch out their oil seasonally but it makes sense now. As I said before, I'm prepping to do my first change myself.

 

troublemaker.

 

A oil change is cheap insurance.
It not only protects against engine wear but it also carries contaminates to the oil filter.
Frequent short trips, especially in cold or really humid climates and water will build up inside the engine.
This excess of water not only rusts the engine from the inside out it also contaminates the oil and filter reducing its usable life.
A oil change is cheaper than major engine repairs.
So if I were you here is what I would do, it is now March, change the oil now, then change it again in late June early July.
Then change it again the first week of January, then the first week of June.
This will make it easy to remember, you can mark your calender or know that 1/x/xx you need a oil change.
Then in 6/x/xx you need another oil change.

I change my oil every 5,000 miles, I dont worry about the 100's, I just go by the thousands.
Example, my last oil change was at 210,xxx miles, my next one is at 215,xxx miles.
Simple to remember and easy to plan.

 

I'm honestly not trying to make trouble here, but if it's really that important to change it every six months, do it in Jan and July, not Jan and June

 

thanks Spike...I'll do just that. hopefully tomorrow. crazy humid here....i'm really interested to see whether it cures my fairly recent ticking. the inde here filled it with Amsoil probably about a 1000 miles or so but it'll be worth it to cross it off my list for potential problems and things I have done myself. then in June, maybe I'll add the oil pressure sandwich gauge adapter and change it again. January-June-January-June. Think I got it. i'm gonna get a canister. probably some jack stands. do i need a specific socket or tool? appreciate it.

 

Smart ***.

 

Forget jack stands, get ramps, 5,000lbs ramps, they run about $30 for a pair, mine are steel, I prefer steel over plastic.
Run both passenger side wheels up onto the ramps, this will point the oil drain plug down and put both driveshafts higher in the air, which makes them easier to grease.
1-1/8" combination wrench is what you need for the oil drain plug on a DI, you will find it in the trailer towing section of your fav store.
A cheap grease gun and grease for the u-joints and slip shafts, which you WILL grease at each and every oil change and after you get back home from each and every deep wading session.

 

OK, got all the bits but went plastic on the ramps due to availability and because steel rusts real quick here.

Dug up some pics from my prior June engine work. Going on 3rd oil change today since with little mileage. Can't be sure to what extent parts were cleaned then but I am sure the PO (me also) was a knucklehead when it came to maintenance. I originally bought it from a dealer at 44k but who knows what condition it was then other than it looked and ran pretty. Any comments on these pics?

Also, going with no cleansers as I expect to change the oil frequently now and will be using the Rotella. Also got the big Purolator. Going with that cleaning little by little concept I read on the other thread instead of seize up the engine due to a quick loosening of gunk.

Oh, and I'm gonna try replacing the plenum hose and the spiral thing, and maybe changing some clamps along the way.

I call no comments on wires or plugs Mike...I have 'em and I'm changing them next.

 

See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ictures-47555/ for pix of what it should look like.

Your evenly coated "black beauty" could also indicate a problem with valve stem seals allowing the exhaust to sneak back in....