I got a 97 disco replaced all coolant system radiator water pump fan clutch thermostat twice Yeah still overheating I know I don’t have any head gasket issues no weird white smoke coming out of the tailpipe Or whatever.
so how all this happens is when I’m in traffic or driving stop and go lights traffic type of situation after period of time of 10 to 15 minutes or so it starts get me a temperature then when I’m going at a brisk speed it’s goes down now I’ve heard stories about replacing fans but I don’t know how to do that because the only fans I see are the condenser fans for the AC if that’s what the ones they’re talking about well anyways let me know thanks people.

 

It does sound like a fan. It’s the mechanical fan that’s attached to the front of the engine on the water pump. It’s not difficult to replace but you need a large wrench, from memory it’s 36mm but don’t buy one until you confirm the size.

 

Well, if you've replaced the fan clutch then im not sure doing it again is going to help much.
How do you know it's overheating? Are you using a ScanGauge or UltraGauge? If so, what temps are you seeing? Are you running the AC? If you are, then the condenser fans might be worth evaluating.

 

Well how I know it’s overheating is by the temperature gauge what other gauges are or gauges is there something that I’m missing I hear but stories people put in their own gauges and saying that the Stock gauge is not entirely accurate but I’m afraid to put that to the test anymore

 

Your 1997 will have OBDII and you can see the inputs into the engine ECU in real time. The temp gauge on the dash is worthless. A $25 dongle and a $5 app is all you need.

The data is super helpful in understand what is or is not out of whack, what sensors are seeing, and what that may mean.

Do this before you do anything else...
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013

 

If you've watched your dash gauge move to the top then its more than likely you've done damage to the engine, especially if this has happened multiple times. My guess is that you've got bigger problems and should probably get a shop to take a deeper look at the engine.

 

The dash gauge is susceptible to error if the circuit wire has a short to ground (reads high, could be caused by corrosion build up from the wire connector to the block) or open circuit (reads low). Definitely take Walt's suggestion and get an OBD reader. It doesn't have to be a wireless dongle type. Simple plug-in types are widely available at autoparts stores or big box retailers or on-line.

Another way to check is with a non-contact thermometer aimed at the thermostat housing. That's a useful tool for checking temps in the engine bay (e.g. exhaust manifolds, radiator).

 

What’s the common temps that we should be looking for red line kind of thing?

 

The cooling system in the D1 is a notorious weakness. Particularly if using A/C. The stock t-stat is 88 deg C or 190 F. I use a 180 F t-stat just to give me a little bit of a head start moving coolant through the radiator.

I start to be concerned at 205. Anything over 210 and the A/C is off for sure. If I am moving down the road that is usually enough. In bumper to bumper traffic with temps at 210 I'd turn the heat on. Each situation is a little different. For example, using lower gears so the engine spins the fan a bit more is generally pretty effective for me and allows me to keep the A/C on in slow/creeping traffic.

 

With a re-cored radiator, my 4.6 doesn't get over 192 in stop start traffic. Typically it sits around 186-188.

My recommendation is to buy yourself an Ultragauge and monitor your temps in real-time. If you're seeing over 210 with a new fan clutch and a known good radiator, then I'd want to look at the thermostat. If the issue happens when your AC is on, it could be that your Condenser Fans are not working. Those are easy to test, just hook them up to a 12v battery and see if they work.