Overheating -- Head gaskets?
calling the rad shop today to quote having it tested/rodded..
I've cleaned mine with acids and so far so good. I tried getting a new core but the one reliable radiator shop said costs too much just get new? Righty O Ranger Rick. Back in the day it was nothing to have tanks slapped on a new $40 dollar core.
Blehhh... apparently the local rad shop has recently closed so nothing within 60miles of me ...............
Any DIY suggestions?
tips on the acid clean?
EDIT: Found one by my work.. 80$ to clean and test
Any DIY suggestions?
tips on the acid clean?
EDIT: Found one by my work.. 80$ to clean and test
Last edited by nuclearw; Apr 10, 2015 at 10:02 AM.
It figures.....
Muriatic
Sulfuric
Citric
Any of these can be found at building supply or hardware stores.
Basically you remove the radiator, tape off openings, add acid and slosh it back and forth then let sit, flush well and reinstall. The sulfuric is very caustic but it's the quickest. As a last resort we use it at work to open restroom drains (24/7 365 = lots of usage). We buy it from the local hardware down the road. Does the job. On brass and copper radiator it can remove metal or expose weak spots that can develop leaks soon afterwards so use with utmost discretion.
Muriatic
Sulfuric
Citric
Any of these can be found at building supply or hardware stores.
Basically you remove the radiator, tape off openings, add acid and slosh it back and forth then let sit, flush well and reinstall. The sulfuric is very caustic but it's the quickest. As a last resort we use it at work to open restroom drains (24/7 365 = lots of usage). We buy it from the local hardware down the road. Does the job. On brass and copper radiator it can remove metal or expose weak spots that can develop leaks soon afterwards so use with utmost discretion.
I saw your thread on that, I'll give this cleanout a shot first I just prefer the all-metal rad over the plastic capped ones
Well because of costs it looks like anybody who plans on driving their truck into the ground will be doing dime-O-dozen. One idea to keep the cooling system in tip top shape is a hot rod water pump made by Flowkooler, 1526 is the part # (@$115) An excellent pump for low rpm chugging.
Good catch. It is the number off the top of my head because I'm into the BOP SB's, trying to piece together a higher hp system on a dollar diet that will mate to most of what's Rover.
The 1522 is the model that will fit, the front cover on a 3.9/4.2 is the same as the GEMS trucks the difference being a milled hole for the dizzy and it's threaded hold down clamp standoff. I'm going to need a pump for my current Rover motor so I'll let everyone know how it works out.
The 1522 is the model that will fit, the front cover on a 3.9/4.2 is the same as the GEMS trucks the difference being a milled hole for the dizzy and it's threaded hold down clamp standoff. I'm going to need a pump for my current Rover motor so I'll let everyone know how it works out.


