Overheating -- Head gaskets?
#22
#23
#24
It figures.....
Muriatic
Sulfuric
Citric
Any of these can be found at building supply or hardware stores.
Basically you remove the radiator, tape off openings, add acid and slosh it back and forth then let sit, flush well and reinstall. The sulfuric is very caustic but it's the quickest. As a last resort we use it at work to open restroom drains (24/7 365 = lots of usage). We buy it from the local hardware down the road. Does the job. On brass and copper radiator it can remove metal or expose weak spots that can develop leaks soon afterwards so use with utmost discretion.
Muriatic
Sulfuric
Citric
Any of these can be found at building supply or hardware stores.
Basically you remove the radiator, tape off openings, add acid and slosh it back and forth then let sit, flush well and reinstall. The sulfuric is very caustic but it's the quickest. As a last resort we use it at work to open restroom drains (24/7 365 = lots of usage). We buy it from the local hardware down the road. Does the job. On brass and copper radiator it can remove metal or expose weak spots that can develop leaks soon afterwards so use with utmost discretion.
#27
#28
#29
#30
Good catch. It is the number off the top of my head because I'm into the BOP SB's, trying to piece together a higher hp system on a dollar diet that will mate to most of what's Rover.
The 1522 is the model that will fit, the front cover on a 3.9/4.2 is the same as the GEMS trucks the difference being a milled hole for the dizzy and it's threaded hold down clamp standoff. I'm going to need a pump for my current Rover motor so I'll let everyone know how it works out.
The 1522 is the model that will fit, the front cover on a 3.9/4.2 is the same as the GEMS trucks the difference being a milled hole for the dizzy and it's threaded hold down clamp standoff. I'm going to need a pump for my current Rover motor so I'll let everyone know how it works out.