I've been reading a few threads where owners were reporting overheating problems and many of them pointed to head gaskets, clogged radiators, water pumps, etc.

After troubleshooting my overheating problem (here in Phoenix it's pretty common) I figured out that the boiling over was actually caused by a bad expansion tank cap. The cap wasn't holding pressure and that left the boiling point of the water at 212.

Now I'm running 90/10 mix of water/coolant with Redline Water Wetter and things are running fantastically. No problems at all even with ambient temps above 110 and taking on tough desert trails at low speeds.

Don't overlook the simple things!!

Cheers,

Karl

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Running that high of a ratio of water:coolant significantly reduces your boiling point compared to recommended ratios.

 

Yes I agree, how come yours is working? I am running dead on 50/50 with Royal Purple and still getting 210 and 214 spikes in traffic with UNDER 85 ambient. Will get a new pressure cap and see if that helps.

 

i had severe overheating problems for a long time.

i redid the entire cooling system. rodded, cleaned rad. new everything else. i put in a 160 degree t-stat which I may change over later.

it's always hot here and i rarely see 190. Sitting in traffic in blazing sun and I'm hitting 194 maybe.

50/50 Peak and Water Wetter.

 

fyi, i've been running distilled water (with a little leftover coolant i didn't drain) in the D2. I haven't even put WW in it and it runs perfectly. still loses a little liquid (gaskets?) which I have been assured unfortunately is not the water evaporating.

i guess for me the reason to go to 50/50 is only if I put the truck under a lot of stress to avoid it boiling at a lower temp point. otherwise it runs great with plain water. similar temps to the D2.

 

Slang, you really should have either antifreeze or Water wetter with your distilled water. If your engine did get above 212 for some reason, the boiling would make lots of bubbles, they don't transfer heat as well as a liquid, so problem ratchets up pretty quick. Some track guys run water and water wetter. But water wetter won't make temps below operating point of thermostat.

 

You will be buying a water pump soon, engine coolant does more than just carry heat to the radiator to be cooled, it also lubricates the water pump bearings.
And it prevents corrosion.
Freeze protection, which you dont need to worry about.
I always use and recommend to others to use the 50/50 premixed coolant, yes it costs more but it is idiot proof.
Any idiot can use it and protect their cooling system.
If you have a leak that you will be addressing in the near future then go ahead and use plain tap water but for prolonged use you must use actual engine coolant.
I've been using Wal-Mart brand lately, it's made by Peak but costs half as much.

 

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no i won't cause ill listen to you guys and put in some 50/50. i was running it for a few weeks as I was looking for the leak and expecting a full flush...i'll take care....thanks.

 

Good to hear, just trying to help save you some time and money.

Hunting down a leak, or doing a complete flush, running with plain water is fine.