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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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Rover Chris's Avatar
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Default oxygen sensors

OK I have seen discussions on here about $110 O2 sensors and $20 O2 sensors, and I was wondering if anyone could explain THE ACTUAL differences between the 2 sensors? I have been told the universal sensors fit right in and work just fine (well they turn off the CEL which means that it has to be at least acceptable by the computer) so what I want to know is what are the inner working differences between the 2 sensors? what would be the difference (if any) in performance, fuel economy, or harm caused by using universal instead of OEM?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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The difference,If I remember right, is the expensive o2's have the correct connector molded on, the cheap ones have leads that needs you're old connector spliced on. But the workings of a 4 wire heated o2 is the same for one to the next.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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I'm not 100% the threads on the universal 20$ O2 are the same. You can get NTK 25044 which are a direct fit with the right connector for 65$ at www.race-mart.com or amazon
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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Thats right- I remember when I replaced my o2's, I couldnt find a wrench 'cause they were an odd size
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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The threads should be the same size; from my parts experience, I have only seen two different sized threads on O2 sensors (they're much like spark plugs and have standardised threads).

However, I see no reason to get a universal when direct fits aren't much more expensive. The universals are going to be prone to corrosion where the wires are spliced, unless you solder, and do a very thorough job of insulating with heat shrink or liquid tape. Then, if the sensor ever fails again, you are going to have to cut out some of the wiring harness where you spliced it, and either re-splice, solder, and insulate each wire, or reinstall the OEM connector you cut off (if you, like me, save every wiring connector you ever remove because you never know when you might need it again).
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lordmorpheus
I see no reason to get a universal when direct fits aren't much more expensive.
well if you can find a direct fit for under about $40 shipped(which is more than twice the total price shipped for the cheapest universal I could find) then I am sure just about every one on this forum would be your new best friend. I think some of the guys on here have found them in the $90 range. That $60 NTK that Jull mentioned is the first one I saw for less than $90. but AB wants about $130 for them. So I think I will take the $18 sensors and call it a day. But I will definitely solder and seal the wires really well. I guess the way I look at it is the $18 sensor costs less than 7 of the OEM sensors from Atlantic British so even if it only lasts a quarter of the OEM sensors life, it is still a better deal!

As far as the threads I think they are pretty universal as well. And my theory on this is if the sensors were different (OEM vs. Universal) then they would have made them a different thread size. like a larger thread for the AELS sensors.
 

Last edited by Rover Chris; Oct 1, 2010 at 12:21 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 03:31 AM
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I ordered the cheap universal sensor and the thread size was different. It might be that they sent the wrong part but everything matched up on the paperwork and on the part itself. Not sure what happened there. I bought the Atlantic British OEM one and it plugged right in. Took about 10 minutes to change and thats cause I had to jack it up because I'm too fat to fit under it.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 07:56 AM
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There are 2 different types of 02 sensors when it comes to D1's. The newer D1 have an advanced Evap. system and require a special 02 which can be determined by your vin. number.
Go to British Parts of Utah and read there 02 information.
By the way, none of the cheap , generic 02 will work for you with this system.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
There are 2 different types of 02 sensors when it comes to D1's. The newer D1 have an advanced Evap. system and require a special 02 which can be determined by your vin. number.
Go to British Parts of Utah and read there 02 information.
By the way, none of the cheap , generic 02 will work for you with this system.
do you mean cheap universals will not work with both of these types or just the AELS type? I am pretty confused because Atlantic British doesn't really explain this very well, and according to BP of Utah I don't have the AELS type sensors. and the NTK25044 has the gray connector for the AELS type, and I believe I remember seeing the black connector on my truck when I was in there looking. do they make a cheaper direct fit for my truck?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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For Land Rover, "genuine" means it's comes in a box with the Land Rover oval on it.
Like O2 senors. You have two choices:
1. You can get a "genuine" Land Rover O2 sensor made by NTK for $120 in the white box with the Land Rover oval.
2. You can pay $55-$60 for a NTK OEM O2 sensor that says NTK on the box

According to new Land Rover policies a very limited number of companies in the US can sell you #1

IMO the green oval on a box doesn't make the part any better.

For my 97 I used these.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
$60 with free shipping isn't a bad price for plug and play OEM sensors.
 
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