Guys,

This morning the Disco was running a little rough, like stumbling on acceleration and not smooth idle when first started.

On the way home Check Engine Light came on. Went to Advanced Auto there was only 1 code P1179 fuel air metering error.

Cleared it and it ran fine all the way home. Can anyone give me any insight as to what may have triggered this code and what if anything should be done?

 

Well Danny, I dont have any sneakers or jewelry to offer, but I have had some experience with this "troublesome" code. It's what I like to call Rovers Hail Mary code.
P1176 ....Fuel Mass Flow Rate @ max positive correction......in other words the ecu has adjusted the fuel curve for the maximum flow that it was DESIGNED to deliver. Many believe that this is a result of a MAF sensor that may be dirty or old and getting out of spec, or there may be some sort of air leak in the intake system causing the engine to need more fuel. Some guys even feel that the fuel pump may be weak ( even though the engine seems to run fine) Many have cleared the code (cleaned the maf) only to have the code reappear 50 / 200 / 500 / 1200 miles later. In all my searching I have yet to find a definitive answer. Having said all that, and my personal experience with this, It seems possible that your recent air intake modifications may have exceeded the computer's pre set ability to adjust the fuel curve enough to compensate for the increase in air flow. Just my opinion, let us know what you find

 

You must have me confused with someone else, I did NO AIR INTAKE MODIFICATIONS except to remove the K&N Air Filter and return to the stock LR paper filter. But I did a search and saw that 1176 and 1179 were often associated with the MAF and also the vacumn hoses going into the intake manifold, so I started with the Vacumn Hoses. A few months ago. I had noticed these were in poor condition and I replaced them with some heater hose I had handy. I did not notice that the heater hose was about 1/16 or 1/8 too large. It slid over the nipples but not snugly. As soon as I examined them closely, I realized that was the most likely cause.

I replace them with a snugger fitting piece of some heavy duty tubing and the difference was obvious immediately. Went for a test drive, it is much more responsive to the slightest throttle change, runs much better all around. Amazing difference.

Thanks for your input, I guess the lesson I learned was to try the search function first. I will let everyone know if it repeats.

I guess I really should find the correct hose, the one on there now is a section from a washer machine hot water hose. It was a real fight getting it on the nipples cause it is a bit smaller ID than the OD of the nipple.

I am sure the correct hose would withstand the engine bay temps better in the long run. But with the snug fit, it made a heck of a difference.

Between the new fuel pump a few months ago and the new plugs and wires, improving the vacumn hoses, it is pretty damn peppy now when you goose the throttle. Major difference since I first bought it. It does keep getting better.

The only real aggravation I had was the bad ground on the starter causing intermittent no start problems. Since I fixed that issue, it's been better and better.

When I do get a few other things finished like the valley gasket r/r, I may give it to my wife and get another one to play with.

 

(sorry about the air in. mixup I suffer from CRS)
My P1176 seemed to go away for the longest when I tightened the intake manifold bolts...
I had previously done the headgaskets & all a year before.....but never went back and rechecked the intake manifold bolts, turns out(no pun intended) that they were all a half turn or more loose. So it probably wouldnt hurt to check them after a few months of driving with the new gasket in place. Cleaning the maf seemed to help also. I have read that it may be beneficial to have a scanner hooked up to check and see what the coolant temp sensor is saying to the ecu, as you probably know an out of spec sensor could tell the ecu that the engine is "cold", even though it's not ,and feed it more fuel.
good luck and keep us posted.

 

Thanks, today I picked up a 8mm 12 point deep well socket and was able to tighten the valve cover bolts a fair bit. So altogether, I have improved the vacumn hoses, cleaned the throttle linkages and springs and such, blew everything down with compressed air nozzle, and snugged up the oil filler neck where it enters the engine.

I then degreased the general area. I took it for a spin, it is running really smooth, improved throttle response, very peppy feeling compared to when I first got it.

I have the gaskets for the valley pan but I am waiting to see if snugging everything up has stopped the oil puddling up on the top of the water pump. I was also concerned with the oil leakage what it was, if that had gotten into or onto something that was causing a problem.

It is running better than ever right now. Difference is amazing.

 

which vaccuum hoses did u replace? can i see pics

 

The vacumn lines I was referring to are the ones going from the top of the engine back into the intake manifold. My camera is out of order at the present.

 

The hose I refferred to is shown to the right side of the intake plenum in this pic:

http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/boschvsgems.cfm

Hope that helps you.

 

It threw the P1176 code again today, could old O2 sensors contribute to this?

How does one check the O2 Sensor output?

 

Have you done the valley pan gasket? mine was bad and caused me to throw an 1176. Of course I tracked it to that after cleaning the MAF, replacing O2's, air filter, fuel filter,plugs,wires,etc.

Usually(but not always),if an O2 malfunctions, it will throw an O2 code along with whatever else