P1177 on the MIL light yesterday. Today, stalled at the end of my driveway, and then on the way home, died as I coasted into a Lowe's parking lot.

I had someone put their hand on the fuel pump and he could feel it whirrrr and then stop.

I pulled the hose off the engine side of the fuel pump and MUCH fuel came out.

Pulled the MAF power but the problem continued.

A mechanic finally stopped and he got it started by taking the air filter cover off (filter is CLEAN). He listened for a vaccum leak and couldn't find one, but only a cursory look. Engine was HOTTTTTT. He said to take intake off and clean intake mouth with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. I two-footed a mile home and almost lost it twice.

Anyone got other ideas? I will check pressure at the rail in the morning. If it cranks. It shot out when it first stalled; after that it dribbled.

If it's the fuel pump, this will be my THIRD PUMP in a year, but pump usually fixes this. I really don't know what's going on.

I am also, I have to keep saying, a dumb girl and I know NOTHING about electronics, so when something says "test for voltage," I literally have no idea how to do that. Also, when I google how to do that, it will say "put on a voltage tester and see if there's voltage" or some such. It is literally the most self-referencing thing ever and I am no better at understanding it the thousandth time I hear it than I was the first time. If it needs this, if someone could WALK ME THROUGH how one does that, that's what I will need or "testing" will not be able to be done.

So frustrated.

I've had this three times and I end up replacing the MAF and the pump every time. Or I do injection cleaner AND MAF and pump.

So frustrated. Don't want to have to replace the MAF and the pump again. Waiting for parts is going to cost me several days' work, and I am poor as cr@p to begin with.

What's ******* this thing??????????

 

check fuel pressure at the rail first, the pump should always run for a few seconds when the ign key is put in the 2nd "on" position......the fact that you have replaced the pump a few times leads me to think that the wiring TO the pump is questionable....there is a short wiring harness that connects to the pump......and then goes over toward the frame rail by the drivers side rear wheel >>>stategicaly placed there to corrode from all the crap flying off and around the rear wheel....check that harness, more than one of us has had that issue.

as for the MAF ? what brand are you using?....some of the chineese ones dont work well

and yes you should clean the throttle body as well as possible,

annnnnnd....you aren't dumb , you are learning to work on your ride.....let us know how it goes

 

It likely is a cheap Chinese MAF, because it's my third one in 3 years. I had the original, then replaced it when something exactly like this happened, then tried to clean that one and accidentally snapped off something on the side, giving it the CHOPPIEST ride of my life, so this is my third one. But I unplugged the MAF and this problem kept up, so that means it's not the MAF? I think??? Yes?

I put it in 2 and put my bike tire gauge on it and didn't move. Zero. So I thought well, that's not working, so turned the key off and back to 2 but not cranked, got my CAR tire gauge, and put it on a tire. It read 29. So I stuck in the Schrader on the rail and -- Zero.

I am pretty sure it repressurized if I somehow messed up the first test? Like, my bike gauge has seen better days. Wouldn't it repressurize between key routines? Zero, diddly. Pretty sure I am checking correctly. Gas dribbled out but no pressure.

So, fuel pump? Fuel pump wiring. Yeah??

 

WHOA.

I think I found what's wrong.

Still getting 0 pressure at the rail, but the pump was whirring just fine today. I had some urgent things I had to do, so I borrowed a friend's car (keyless, and managed to get stuck when I turned it off to try it at an intersection near our houses and couldn't get it back on again because apparently her key in her pocket enabled it to start and the spare she gave me was DOA) and only gave my Rover an hour or so attention. BUT what I did was I removed the fuel filter just because it's been bugging me and WOW, the black splatter that started pouring out of it as it rolled down my driveway. WOW. I have probably 7,000 miles on that filter and it was DISGUSTING.

My intention had been to splice the fuel lines together without a filter and see if the pressure comes back, but seeing how much crud has been in the lines and tank, I don't dare. Tried to spin a few plugs to check them and could only get one off and it was crusty like a well-done marshmallow.

Tomorrow I'll ride my bike to some suppliers and try to find a filter with thin ends -- ANY filter, a FISH TANK filter -- but I am pretty convinced I will get a start, and then I'll move on the replacing plugs and wires just because.

 

Well, it looks like you figured that out. If it was me I'd remove the fuel filter attach a hose that I could run into a bucket and clean the line between the pump and filter THEN install the new filter. Since you removed the pump you know how, check the pumps inlet sock to make sure it's clean or clean it if it isn't. Check the tank and wipe it down or at least wipe the bottom at the pump. Where ever your buying fuel you might want to change for awhile.....

Checking for voltage is easy. Car battery is 12V DC, that travels to everything except a few sensors and your fuel float which is 5 Volt DC. You put the red lead of the voltage tester on a positive lead (any color but black) and the black tester lead goes on the negative lead (black wire). With Rover a black wire is negative so anything but black is positive or signal back to ECU. Have the voltage tester on DC Volts and when you touch the tester leads to the positive and negative wires the tester should read 12Volts DC if there is voltage. Now connectors are numbered and the Rave has which pin does what - positive/negative and signal. You'll need to get into the Electronic Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) to find pin numbers and connectors...... it's easier than it sounds, very easy. Like checking voltage...... it's either there or not there..... remember this always - 12 Volts Direct Current (12VDC) is your battery, you'll never have to worry if you keep this in your craw. When the motor is running you'll get 13.6VDC but that's because the alternator is charging the battery and a charged battery will output more than 12Volts so..... a voltage check is checking that there IS voltage. Any voltage is good, no voltage is bad. Getting voltage where your not supposed to is bad, that's a shorted circuit, bare wires cause shorted circuits..... hope that helps in your confusion.

One other thing, testers use symbols. A symbol with a dashed line above a solid line is Direct Current. A wave symbol ~ is Alternating Current. All gas/diesel engine vehicles are Direct Current (DC) The only time with a vehicle you will come across Alternating Current is when testing an Alternators internals, it outputs DC though...... you will never test an Alternators guts. Your home uses AC, your car uses DC. Got it?

 

That helps A LOT and I am printing it out.

Does that mean a black wire is the same as a ground?

 

not always !! lol

 

There are two negative main circuits on a vehicle run by a computer. There is chassis negative and then there is computer negative. Chassis is lights, radio, blower(s), wipers and such. Computer negative is a separate circuit within the computer that applies to sensors. Any sensor the computer uses has a negative lead which may or may not have a solid black wire..... which is what XCELL is referring to. You'll have to consult the ETM to know which wire is your negative just like finding the positive.

 

I replaced the battery and thought I had fixed this all. It fired up fine, came up to temp fine, although stumbly, and restarted fine.

Came inside for a bit and went back out and it just will not turn over.

Pending codes are p0101 p0102 p1172 and p3999

I unplugged the MAF and it wouldn't start, unplugged the coolant temp sensor and it wouldn't start. It just WILL NOT START. Cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over.

Anyone? I am just in a real state here.

 

1172 is oxygen sensor system too rich bank A - that's the only code that matters.

The other three are the MAF disconnect and the P3999 is an undefined code or one that requires a Testbook 4 to read, for now ignore it.

Did you change the fuel filter already? Still not starting?