Clean with C r c

 

Buzz, yes, there are supposed to be seals on 3 sides, you could in the case of a D1 get wet and have issues, thank God D2's love water.

 

Unless you have one of the 5 100 thru 105 codes for a failing MAF I wouldn't waste my time and money going there.
Did they say how they determined that it is needed? You can go to the Rave and it will give you easy testing procedures for the MAF.
What did they say about the 1177 code, or is it gone for now?

 

they said they hooked a new maf up and it ran fine but im not sure all i no is now im getting p1316 p1177 p1179 and p300 codes lights are on and the truck is not running good at all accualy worse i really dont now what to do i checked my plugs today to see for spark and im smeeling raw fuel now btw my scan is saying not all readyness tests are completing and what does mil off mean please guys i dont no what to do and i cant afford to do another tune up or to buy a 720 dollar maf that is not needed/plus the truck has no ***** under power and it stalls out when reversing or stoping

 

Before you spend $$$$ on a new MAF, or buy one at the salvage yard, try a can of CRC MAF cleaner. Do this when engine is cold. Take MAF loose from each end, OK to leave connected to wires. Take pair of needle nose pliers, and start at the end with the screen. The screen is held in by a plastic ring that snaps inside the bore of the MAF. Grab the edge of the plastic ring and wiggle out a little at a time pulling straight out, from various spots around the edge. There are little wedge fittings you can't see until it come out. Screen will fall out into your hand. DO NOT PRY ON SCREEN - it will bend. Take MAF screen away from truck and spray off the both sides with the MAF cleaner. Take MAF cleaner and spray down inside the hole in the center of the plastic rod that sticks up toward the screen. That is where the sensor is. Spray several time, 5 - 10 seconds. Tip MAF so liquid drains out of this center tube. Use a paper towel you spray with MAF cleaner and wipe out the bore of the MAF tube. Put back together and re-install. BTW, I did this same job this AM on my truck, took like 10 minutes. Idled a little higher than normal when cranked, this went away after a few miles as ECU adapted to the "new" fuel / air mix readings.

Don't lets parts store sell you carb cleaner. The product needs to say that it is for MAF (mass air flow) sensors.

 

I am not sure how many more times I am going to repeat myself, you have to find a Rover mechanic who is familiar with the 1177 and deal with it.
I am not going to waste any more time drawing you pictures if you are not willing to listen, and it is not the MAF, you have no MAF codes showing.
Buz, you need to research the 1177 so he can start looking in the right direction.

 

re: so landrover did a diagnostic and said my mass air flow sensor was toast doesnt that just suck ecu is fine from what the tech said anyways off

I would not be the first to suspect that the dealer would have a practice of selling a new part instead of cleaning it. May not clean, but only costs a few dollars to try. A new MAF costs almost as much as my truck....

And Mike is right, here is some info on P1177:

P1177 - Long term fuel trim too rich, banks 1&2 (FMFR) - the system tries to adapt to changes in air and fuel, but has limits. Once limit is pushed in one direction too far, a fault is registered and won't clear until conditions are corrected. MAF tells engine computer how much air is coming in, if not accurate, truck won't run right, may throw codes. Also, if there is un-metered air leaking in (vac leak) that impacts the calculations as well. Air filter needs to be clean.