my Parking brake light turns on while making turns on curvy roads. all of my pads are worn down and will be replace this weekend. Is this a "your brakes are shot" indicator?
My parking brake doesnt do much in terms of holding the truck where it is when you set it (also seems like worn pads again)

Also, a recommendations of brand and source for pads and rotors would be appreciated.

thanks.

brian

96 disco 171K auto trans

 

Hi Brian. I have a '96 SD too. I like Akebono brake pads. No nasty dust and they work very well. I think the pads might be the cause of the brake light coming on. The parking brake on mine is't real good either. The parking brake on these actually squeezes the drive shaft, I believe the rear one. So there will be some slop in there. The rotors, I'm not sure. It's been a while since I replaced mine, but I get most of my parts from a well-known Jaguar-Land Rover site which I don't think is a sponsor of this forum. ;^)

 

check your brake fluid. might be low. the reservoir has a baffle in the middle, so make sure there is fluid in both the front and back.

 

X2 brake fluid is moving side to side and causing a low fluid reading. If your fluid is not golden in color, probably time to change it out as well.

 

My fluid was a little low. So that solves the light coming on while turning. MY fluid is light brownish so I will need to change it. A problem I noticed. When I had the master cyl cap off to add fluid, when screwing it back on it does not fully tighten, It tightens but when you get it close to being sealed it pops back off and needs to be screwed on again. Is my cap defective. The seal looks good and there' no leaks from the are around the cap. Im far from a braking expert but cant afford mechanic labor rates. I would appreciate some tips on flushing fluid and maintenance of the master cyl

thank
Brian

 

my cap also does this, definitely flush out all the discolored fluid and if you were that low to set off a light all the fluid is setting in the calipers you need to check pads, now when you do pads all that extra fluid you just added will be on the ground clean it up good it eats paint

when flushing start farthest from the master cyl do pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front

ign off all the time break open bleeder with wrench then close with full master and cap on have someone pump breaks a few times and hold, open bleeder pedal goes to floor hold it there till bleeder is closed then pump and bleed, repeat till clear fluid, at each wheel

may want to spray lube the bleeders first to soak em and if you can suck the old fluid from the master and put clean in there is goes faster

also after a few bleeds on each caliper check the master keep it full with cap on