Pics of Removed Hub
#1
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Pics of Removed Hub
Here's some pics I took recently regarding brake job/ Hub Removal/ Bearings Replacement.
There is also a picture of exhaust manifold to y=pipe connection at the passenger wheel well with the front tire removed and the innser panel cut with tin snips and bent out of the way to access y-pipe gasket. Also note the clear access to the starter. There is also a picture of the new starter ground connection that resolved my intermittent starter issue/ I bought a used starter, but resolved the problem with a new ground connection.
One pic shows the back side of the removed hub, another shows the axle with the hub removed. Also shown is the side by side of original rear caliper and a new Pro-Line caliper from RN.
There is also a picture of exhaust manifold to y=pipe connection at the passenger wheel well with the front tire removed and the innser panel cut with tin snips and bent out of the way to access y-pipe gasket. Also note the clear access to the starter. There is also a picture of the new starter ground connection that resolved my intermittent starter issue/ I bought a used starter, but resolved the problem with a new ground connection.
One pic shows the back side of the removed hub, another shows the axle with the hub removed. Also shown is the side by side of original rear caliper and a new Pro-Line caliper from RN.
#2
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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A few more pics
Here's some more pics. There are a few of the fuel pump assembly with the crack in the top. One shows old and new brake pads. The other one shows how I trimmed the inner wheel well panels to allow me to flex them out of the way to gain improved acess to the exhaust gaskets, starter, and the lower engine area in general. This beats struggling to get to the stuff, just ****** the tire off and bend the panel out of the way. I love the improved acess and view of everything.
#3
Join Date: Mar 2010
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A few more good shots
Here's some more of my handiwork. You can see the cut out I did in the passengers side tunnel to improve access to CDL mechanism. I patched it later. Used starter shown laying in floorboard.
You can see the lower pivot point thru the cutout. Also shown is the CDL shifter and linkages from above side view and top view. Note the Red Lucas Tractor Gear Lube on shifter mechanism.
Side to side movement of shifter engages/disengages CDL by rotating the triangular shaped pivot point shown. It took putting a socket on a speed handle with extension to get mine to budge. Also had to replace the CDL Interlock Switch before mine would engage. Corroded linkage and bad switch plunger. Also shown is the corroded fuel filter, it had become one with the clamp.
All replacement hardware was purchased from Rovers North.
You can see the lower pivot point thru the cutout. Also shown is the CDL shifter and linkages from above side view and top view. Note the Red Lucas Tractor Gear Lube on shifter mechanism.
Side to side movement of shifter engages/disengages CDL by rotating the triangular shaped pivot point shown. It took putting a socket on a speed handle with extension to get mine to budge. Also had to replace the CDL Interlock Switch before mine would engage. Corroded linkage and bad switch plunger. Also shown is the corroded fuel filter, it had become one with the clamp.
All replacement hardware was purchased from Rovers North.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 07-10-2010 at 11:22 PM.
#5
Thanks for the info and pics, very helpful. I am about to repack wheel bearings on my project Rover so this is really helpful. With all the time I've spent turning wrenches on cars I have never removed a hub or repacked the bearings so I'm glad you have pics so I know what to expect. It's amazing how little the Rover axles changed from 1959 when the Series II was released to 1999 when the D1 line ended.
#6
Great thread Danny Lee. I really like the idea of the access panel added on the CDL tunnel. I think I may do the same thing in the near future. Part of my linkage is frozen. I can shift into diff lock high but not low. I have been avoiding fixing it because I didn't want to yank out the center console again (had it out once before and didn't realize linkage was frozen until a later date). Thank again. Great post.
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