I've tried everything I can possibly think of/ looked at every Google page I can think of to fix my problem, and I've just about pulled all my hair out trying to find the issue without digging deep into my pockets, just to end up finding out that my issue is elsewhere.
Well a few weeks ago I had thought I had fixed a starting issue when I had replaced my ignition rotor with a new one from Napa. The rig ran fine for about 700 mi. until I was on my way to work and the engine just cut out. Gave it full throttle and it kicked on for a split second but then cut again and would not start back up.
It's getting fuel to the rail (new filter, rigged pump from an 98 D1), plenty of air (I cleaned MAF/IACV, new air filter, no carbon in throttle body), fuses seem good, vac lines seem good, replaced spark plugs/wires with AB parts, distributor cap, I've tried 2 rotors, ignition coil looks like it's been replaced before I got the car about 2 years ago (ignition coil has spark at distributor), but no spark at plug on #1cyl. I don't believe this year has a CPS either. I do have to replace my valve covers very soon... Could that cause this type of failure? Do I just need fork out for a new distributor? Can the timing jump on these things with 230,000 mi on it?
Please help me!! Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

remove the coil lead from the distributor and hold it about a half inch from a metal surface....have an assistant crank over the engine.....you should have a bright blue spark ( maybe even also at slightly farther away )......if its a weak yellow or no spark....you probably have an issue with the coil , or amplifier module. If you have really good spark at the coil lead wire....then likely the problem is with the dist cap or rotor......these things are a little picky about their rotors....get a Lucas one or better yet search the interweb for a " Red " one..(personal experience) Also check to verify that you have battery voltage (12v + ) at the + side of the ignition coil when cranking the starter , and ground at the "-" side, the '95 does not have a crank sensor,

 

It worked! Thanks for the advice. I got her back up and running, but after a day of driving I seem to have received a misfire code on the left side which I've never had before. Is this a result of bad valve covers? (I have a new pair of gaskets with bolts that should be here soon, then I gotta find the time). The spark from my coil was a pale yellow, plus there are fuses that are electrical taped together coming off the amp./coil

 

the "fuses" you mention comming off the coil are actually resistors....and they are sloppily taped right from the factory....I believe they feed ignition signal to the ecu for fuel injector pulse length..
a missfire is more likely result of bad plugs or wires , or cap/ rotor........unless the valve cover is leaking on the plugs or wires