The reason I asked about the master cylinder, is, I have had more than one occasion where the air gap from the booster to the master cylinder was too tight causing the master cylinder to engage. I have stopped using after market cylinders and only use factory parts for this repair. If you can open the bleeder valves on the calipers,and release the pressure, you have diagnosed your master cylinder as being pre loaded. Hope this helps.

 

I would start looking into the abs manifold. Might be a valve that is normally open, acting as check valve because of crap buildup. If you don't want your abs, now might be a good time to bybass it completely and remove the manifold/pump.

 

Ok, I replaced the ABS unit, still have the problem. priceg you must be right, Ill be picking up a LR MC today. Im going to feel so rediculous if the first part I replaced was bad....such a waste of time and money...Oh well, I learned how to replace an entire braking system.

 

Got an OEM MC, fixed the problem straight away. meaning I have a good ABS unit, and proportioning valve for sale should anyone need them

 

Great Lesson Learned.

 

Sounds like a damaged master cylinder.

 

replaced with an OEM MC. but with 20psi vacuum bleeder on it, the Rear Dirverside caliper would not bleed out any fluid. but it would if you pressed the pedal with your foot hard. was a clog in the hard line connector under front wheel well. I cleared it out, brakes work fine now.

 

Thank you so much for reporting back!!!
If I hadn't eaten all the cookies I would give you one.