OK, So I pulled the new set of plugs out of my D1. These pictures are after a total milage of 1.5...

So In 1.5 miles it fouls out the all the plugs this bad. What part should I be looking at to fix this.

 

WOW...well in 1.5 miles you will not get the spark plugs clean..go drive it 30 miles with some highway and come back and report...i bet it will be different

 

Trust me I would if I could... but at 1.5 miles it starts running like such crap I had to limp it home. Runs great on the new plugs until then.

 

what else has been done ..tune up wise ...on this ? are there any CEL codes ?
Obviously you are getting way too much fuel if they foul and it starts running badly in 1.5 mi. There are so many possibilities here....clogged air filter , failing temp sensor, bad plug wires, just to name few.
Tell us a little more about the vehicle

 

New Manacore 8mm, new champions, New air filter, the truck does CEL but tells me it's running rich...duh... New Headers, new Cats, new muffler, new thermostat, new Valley pan gasket, new valve cover gaskets, All new vacuum hoses, IACV has been removed, soaked and cleaned. As well as the plenum and all other parts. (you could eat off them inside and out). I'm doing the new ball joints today, and have another guy taking a look at it tonight. It's looking like I really am going to have to have it towed into town and put on the computer.

 

Bad O2 sensors.
Or they were left unplugged when you replaced the header's.

 

I'll order a set of 4 of them, but they are plugged in. The truck was running fine (Aside from it's other issues) before doing the headers, leaving the rear 2 out then driving to the muffler shop caused the first CEL, But they are all 4 in and plugged in and have been.

 

You only need the front 2, the back 2 do nothing other than tell the ECU that the cats are working.

 

Have you tried to put the factory manifolds back to check (its like me with gear oil, i put 140 in and the transfer case would roar like crazy, spent 60 bucks on balancing tires 100 bucks on u joints and then I told myself, lets try to put new 80w90 in it and the roar is gone).

it stinks when you spend all that money to figure something out.

Situation like this..you go to look at somethings as well....we are sure its getting fuel, have you check if its getting a strong spark..you could have the packs going out as well...you never know...I always start with the basics:air, fuel, spark...

you got air (clean air, but have you checked voltage to the maf?)

fuel you got fuel obviously, but have checked voltage on the fuel pump etc.

spark, have you checked if voltage is right and your making spark?

Just some pointers..dont spend money until you have done these yourself...when your checking for spark..easy way to do it is take on spark plug out at a time (make sure you disconnect the injector to that cylinder) and you should get a nice thick blue spark...if you get a weak spark...or not at all..there is your answer (the plug does have to be grounded)

 

Agree in the "if you changed something and there is a problem reverse it) approach but, that's not going to really help here since the headers required new pipe etc all the way. So there would be no way to put the old y pipe, etc back on now without tearing out everything else. Besides, I gave the old y pipe and one of the manifolds to the guy that bought my 97 as spares.

I have a set of O2 sensor chips, that allow you to remove the O2's from the system. Since I really have nothing to loose by trying I'll wire them up tomorrow when I get the truck back and see if it makes a difference. If they work, then screw the O2's since I don't need the here anyways. (My county allows you to legally remove the cats etc if they are effecting normal operation of the vehicle)

Again, I do think the best bet is to get it over to the computer and see what it says. The bad part is (like I have mentioned in other threads) this requires a 45 mile flatbed tow into town so I'm spending 100+ just on that.

Of course, after diagnostic it will most likely require another flatbed tow back to my house as there is no way I can afford to have the shop fix whatever the issue is. So I'll do it myself. (I'm not paying someone 100+ per hour to turn bolts. plus the ridiculous markup they add to already ridiculously marked up parts)

Personally I think this is why shops are going out of business around here, people are done getting gouged. There are plenty of old time shops around that will still do honest work for honest pay. (Take my ball joints for example, I was quoted 500 bucks by the rover shop plus parts, and they would only put on the factory joints from Atlantic British (which are literally twice what they are from others) So the repair was over 700 bucks for the 4 front joints. Oh, and have to drop off the truck and not expect it back for a week... Versus 70 bucks I payed for the parts myself (And greaseable!) plus a local guy that's putting them on for another 80 bucks (plus replacing the steering damper) and it done the next day (today even though it's a sunday btw). hmmm 150 total or over 700 total... doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out.

Same with everything else. Do you know that when I asked about the TPS they quoted me almost 800 bucks? 500+ being labor... (thats' over 250 bucks for each screw they have to remove and replace) Highway robbery.

/endrant