Polar Vortex + Codes + High Idle
#1
Polar Vortex + Codes + High Idle
Trying to make sense of some weirdness. Disco 96, 117k.
1) I'd been getting really bad mpg (6-9) and consistent P1316 codes. Seems to be a leak on the driver side cat.
Waiting on new O2 sensors. Just kept clearing the P1316 code... A week before the Vortex (NJ version) we had a spell of below zero weather, and the P1316
was joined by P0215/1508/1317/1316/0300 misfire. The next day, all the codes disappeared. Haven't returned since. Wondering why?
2) Last year, I had a spell of high idle 2500-3000rpm, surging, and the final downshift happening only after a complete stop.
Well - I replaced IAVC, cleaned MAF and TPS, replaced 180 thermostat, replaced vacuum hoses, new fuel filter/pump.
For a year now, running steady at 700rpm - until yesterday (day after Vortex) - when I went to the car wash. Dumb idea maybe.
Well, the high idle surge has returned. Slight stumble when I let off the gas pedal. Will keep accelerating without foot on gas.
What with my bad brake booster, It's been a hairy day.
What's weird is that through several starts/stops. occasionally it'll run like normal at 700rpm, like nothing ever happened. Have searched all the high idle posts.
SO - did the Vortex giveth, then taketh away? Did the freeze plus car wash zap my ECU or VSS? Would a reset work, or is there something more sinister?
Surely, it can't just be water that may have gotten in my fuel...
On a happier note, ordered from John Craddock UK - O2 sensors non-AEL at $48 vs $90-120 here, and brake booster (likely Allmakes) at $116 + $40 Fedex/customs. sweet. happy Superbowling, good peeps.
1) I'd been getting really bad mpg (6-9) and consistent P1316 codes. Seems to be a leak on the driver side cat.
Waiting on new O2 sensors. Just kept clearing the P1316 code... A week before the Vortex (NJ version) we had a spell of below zero weather, and the P1316
was joined by P0215/1508/1317/1316/0300 misfire. The next day, all the codes disappeared. Haven't returned since. Wondering why?
2) Last year, I had a spell of high idle 2500-3000rpm, surging, and the final downshift happening only after a complete stop.
Well - I replaced IAVC, cleaned MAF and TPS, replaced 180 thermostat, replaced vacuum hoses, new fuel filter/pump.
For a year now, running steady at 700rpm - until yesterday (day after Vortex) - when I went to the car wash. Dumb idea maybe.
Well, the high idle surge has returned. Slight stumble when I let off the gas pedal. Will keep accelerating without foot on gas.
What with my bad brake booster, It's been a hairy day.
What's weird is that through several starts/stops. occasionally it'll run like normal at 700rpm, like nothing ever happened. Have searched all the high idle posts.
SO - did the Vortex giveth, then taketh away? Did the freeze plus car wash zap my ECU or VSS? Would a reset work, or is there something more sinister?
Surely, it can't just be water that may have gotten in my fuel...
On a happier note, ordered from John Craddock UK - O2 sensors non-AEL at $48 vs $90-120 here, and brake booster (likely Allmakes) at $116 + $40 Fedex/customs. sweet. happy Superbowling, good peeps.
#2
More than likely your ECU is what is effecting the idle and having the multiple codes pop. Aint it FUN? Your reminding my why I made a really good choice. Try the Adaptive reset by robertf, search his posts for the thread. It works at least for a while. You might want to search for another ECU to have as a spare, an early 97 pre AEL should work with a 96. Paul Grant would be my first choice for an ECU.
#3
#6
hey Walt - the battery's less than six months old.
Save for once when the wifi dongle drained it, I always fire right up, even now.
The cold definitely zapped something. How else can error codes disappear and never return?
Reading the posts, there's mention of exhaust being involved?
PS: still looking for that NJ/NYC shade tree mechanic that'll let me watch or help out.
Tired of spending $$ without getting hands-on learning...
Save for once when the wifi dongle drained it, I always fire right up, even now.
The cold definitely zapped something. How else can error codes disappear and never return?
Reading the posts, there's mention of exhaust being involved?
PS: still looking for that NJ/NYC shade tree mechanic that'll let me watch or help out.
Tired of spending $$ without getting hands-on learning...
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