Hey all I recently found an amazing deal on a d1 se from 97 with 60k on her for $5000, and I'm really interested. From what ive been reading, and hearing from people the d1 was far more reliable than the d2s and the ranges I was looking wt as well.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions or even advice not to ge pt it? Also any telltale signs i should look out for? I plan to obviously test drive it, test all windows, locks, etc., and if possible take it to a nearby mechanic for a quick inspection, but anything in particular?

 

Biggest thing is to get the price as low as possible. Because you will be fixing it. Everything may work now but it'll fail soon enough. Head gaskets are good today will probably be bad tomorrow, same with the electronics.

Biggest thing I'd care about is engine and transmission condition. If transmission fluid is low or burnt you may want to decline.

Bring a scanner tool with you, some things don't trigger the cel. And make sure the cel is lit when key is in the on position.

 

Rust is very important too and check the transfer case for operation

 

$5000 is pretty expensive for a 97. Expect to replace head gaskets in the next 30-40,000 miles if they haven't been replaced already.

For reference, I sold my 97 LSE (top trim level for 97) with 113,000 miles, Old Man Emu spring and shocks, brand new tires and everything working perfectly for $4000.

 

Anks for all the advice all, that's good to har though ak, I plan pm upgrading, likely to a newer range or discovery once I leave university, so 30-40k would be perfect. I've just always liked the combination of sports, luxury and ruggedness in lr's. And it'll be perfect for when the crew rolls out to Joshua tree, the sequoias, yosemite, Arizona, etc.


I'm likely going to take it to a mechanic nearby to have them check for specifically the thing you all mentioned. I definitely want to use my time with the discovery if I can get one to become a viable diyer under the guidance of a few mechanic friends, but I know my limited knowledge probably isn't enough. Umless anyones in the LA area and wants ton make a quick 50 bucks today.... Lol.

 

I have a 97 with 112K on it that I paid six grand for four years ago. I used it for one year, then when I did start replacing items, I had quite a bit to do and not enough funds to do what I wanted to do, so mine pretty much sat for close to two years with me cranking it up every week, I finally got all the stuff done and now enjoy it every day.

Sixty thousand miles is extremely low for a 97. The main questions are how has it been treated as far as usuage and maintenance. If it is not abused, it may be worth the price, if it has solid maintenace records, has excellent tires and brakes, fires right up and drives like it should.

Make sure it shifts in and out of high and low on the transfer case.

Also make sure the CDL engages and disengages like it should.

To do this, you need to make sure you understand how it should work. I would also ask the seller to show you how it works. Go for a ride including off-road. See how it does in the mud or has it ever even been in the mud.

Look it over front to back as well as underneath. Get it up on a lift somewhere and look it over good for leaks, damage, corrosion and anything abnormal.

After giving it a really good shakedown, make them an offer if it moves you to. And remember, CASH TALKS. Offer them less than they are asking, i am sure they will be willing to negotiate.

Five Grand is high unless it is KILLER. Then again, if it is really outstanding, it may be a deal.

 

Ok al well I went ahead and bought it, I talked the dealer down to 4200 so after registration, taxes, etc. It was about 4900, ill try to throw some pictures up later, but I've got to say I'm really happy with my choice. Im the third owner it only sAw about 30k or so in Ohio before it came out here to socal, no rust anywhere I could tell, a/c blows cold, starts strong, accelerates well, no leaks I could detect, no check lights, no abs lights, the paint job was still nice, and all the electronics were in order. I don't wanna jinx myself just yet in case any of the little issues I mentioned below turn out to be huge but I feel like I got a great deal.


Ive got to do some maintenance as the previous owner was a girl who didn't do much in the way of maintenance besides replace the ignition. I'll probably need a new oil filter, possibly some break bass, although the tires ar new feels like breaks need a little work, and I can't tell if I'm being ovly paranoid or not but I felt like one shock might have needed a little work, but not enough time on the freeway to know that yet.


Quick questions, one, when I throw her in reverse she shifts well but there's a slight little kick. This happens on my friends relatively new ford that's a v8 though so I'm wondering if it's just v8 engines are something I should take a look wt. Also, i rev and start up fine, but when I decelerate or let my foot off the gas at slower speeds the rpms go down and then revs for a quick second. Wondering if this is just a result of needing to replace the filters, fluids or possibly the fuel injector, but I figure I would ask you all to make certain.


Besides those little nuances rveerything ha been fine that I know of, I'm going to have a more experienced friend come over later and hopefully i can throw some pictures up as well.

 

What's the idle rpms in neutral and in drive? Also may want to clean your iacv. Don't forget to download the rave

 

Well as or the kick.

A clunk is normal. Now if your idle Rpms aretoo high then it may bump in reverse also I found theres a little delay and if you try to put it in reverse and give it gas too soon your in for a surprise.

The idle should be about 700 right around the white mark under 1000

 

It sound like to me you got a very good deal if the milage is true, which apparently it is.

Start with the 60K maintenance list, doing everything you can yourself. If someone else does anything for you, watch them like a hawk.

Get intimately familar with it, it is and will be your new girlfriend, sounds like you found a barely used one, not a nasty old girl that was rode hard and left by the side of the road as most have been by now.

Go ahead and change the fluids in both diff's and the center transfer case as well. Don't forget the front swivel ***** as well. If you don't have documentation showing something was done, assume it is overdue.

Ensure the proper shifting both side to side to engage the CDL. (Locking and unlocking the Center Differential) If you are not familar with it, learn it so you don't damage it. The same lever also shifts your transfer case from HIGH to LOW by moving fore and aft with the transmission in NEUTRAL.

If it works correctly, make sure you exercise it regularly to keep it working smoothly. Whether you need to use the CDL or not depends on the driving conditions. Do not engage on dry pavement. Engage at any speed off-road as long as wheels are not spinning. Engage it before you get stuck in mud, not when it is already buried or still spinning.

Now go drive it and enjoy it.

"As slow as posssible, as fast as necessary." OR

"Drive it like you stole it"

My favorite is: '' Just don't flip your Rover Over."