Thanks for that tweak, I had found it earlier in the day and was coming up here to apologize for asking a pretty obvious question after I found that section.

Went out and bought some of the things on the 60k list, plan to bleed the breaks later today/tonight, change the oil filter and the oil, flush the tranny and power steering fluid and clean out the iacv. I should be changing the air filter as well, but I couldn't find the filter in auto zone after I had everything else and didn't have time to wait for someone to help out.

I found info on cleaning and changing the iacv in the rave before, but I forgot to book mark it and now can't find it again, anyone got any pointers or better yet the page it was on again?

 

Your explaination was misleading as well. There is not a HIGH CDL and LOW CDL.

They are independent of each other. You lock the Center Differetial thereby locking the driveshafts by moving the lever fully left. You unlock or disengage CDL by returning the lever to the right. regarrdless of the Hiogh or low setting and supposedly at any speed from 0 to highway cruising as long as the wheels are not spinning.

You select the High Or Low setting for your transfer case by placing the transmission in Neutral then moving the same lever fore and aft. You shift like it say smoothly and distinctly High to Neutral Neutral to Low and vice versa. After the transfer case engages the selected range return the transmission to drive or reverse.

 

Before you jump into the brake pad replacement, make sure you study up on that subject. You need to read all about the wheel bearings, hub removal and reistallation and all the related items so when you start your brake job, you want all the goodies on hand to do it right and complete the first time or you will be in for a surprise or two.

There is a special adapter for removing the lock nut to pull the hub. Also a fitting kit thaty includes new springs and clips and little goodies needed to install the new pads.

Look at the Rovers North website for all the stuff you need as well as air filters and other correct parts. Better quality than AutoZone for a Discovery. They have good prices on their ProLine parts and they all fit like they should.

Also get a crush washer for the oil drain plug and new mounting bolts for your brake calipers.

Good Luck with your efforts.

 

Slipping would be a better word.


at or below 5mph

 

Oh man thanks for that, some great stuff I hadn't even thought about like a new drain plugs and bolts.

I'm also thinking that the brake pads may be fine and its just the fluid that needs to be flushed/replaced. I talked to a friend with far more experience and had him ride with me and test the brakes and he agreed. I'm thinking with the tires being relatively new they may have done the brakes/rotors, but didn't change the brake fluid (although I don't know who wouldn't do this), I guess we'll see once ive got the wheels off and shes jacked up.

Also, know I'm asking again but I still haven't come across idle air control valve cleaning in the rave again. I know they make a mention of it early on in the acronym page and like I said I'm pretty sure I saw it before but I can't find it again. I was able to locate it just fine and whatnot last night, but I want to make certain before I start putting in work that there's nothing that I'm not overlooking, similar to the great info Danny just gave me.

 

If/when you're doing the brake pads, pick up a small (1pint?) can of disk brake grease, use on back of pads as well as clean the bejesus out of the caliper rails the pads ride on (behind stainless). Lube those as well.

Too many people just thro' pads in, that's fine for a while. But eventually, the pads will start binding in calipers, causing uneven wear on rotors.

I've got over 40k on mine.

luck,greg

 

For the IACV just unplug it, take out the two screws holding it in place, clean with some carb cleaner, reinstall reverse order. Simple as that. One tip: do not move the stepper motor shaft or you will be finding someone with testbook to reset your values. Just spray on the carb cleaner and wipe off. The shaft doesn't move easily so don't be scared but don't try to force it in or out. Good luck.

 

Thanks disco, I guess I should've made my previous post clearer, I found it in the rave just fine but not in real life. I'm pretty sure I've found the iacv but I'm concerned I might be wrong, the only reason I say that is because if its what I think it is it looks like my hands can barely fit back there behind the engine, but I didnt see two tubes like on the disco 2s or a bronzish bolt on the passenger side of the engine like the 95, so I assume it's the piece nestled between the exhaust manifold and the engine for lack of better terms, but i don't see TWO bolts connecting it, just one, making me think I'm looking st the wrong section.

I think I may have it inspected before I put in any more work as well, I think there was a leak a few years back the previous owner had repaired as this disco failed an emissions a few years back and then a month Later passed along with having some other things done like having the oil and filter changed and the chassis lubricated. I want to get a professional opinion if I need to replace any of the tubes/wires if they haven't been already before I pull apart a wire and it crumbles in my hand before I can even FIND the iacv.


I have to y though this learning process is fun and reading the rave and learning a lot more about my own vehicle has been invaluable, so thank you all for putting up with my newbie **** and i promise I'll eventually be able to at least do more than change some fluids .

 

The IACV and TPS are right together just to the right of the plenum on the t-body. Find your airbox, follow it back past the MAF, follow the hose to the t-body, look on the front side of the t-body. There will be two plugs there. One is the TPS (kinda a funky t-shaped/triangular shaped plastic thing) and the IACV. If I had pics I would post for you but I am at work and won't be home till tomorrow.

 

Thanks, I think I may have found it, but I wasn't sure plus I didn't have much time this morning on the way to class. However, I did clean the throttle body and that seems to have solved my brief surge after decelerating issue, so it seems that It wasn't my iacv which makes sense because it's not idling to out of place for the rave guidelines. I'd still like to clean it though so if you get a chance a pic would be greatly appreciated, although this can definitely wait.

Checked my tranny fluid, it looks extremely low to non existent which cant be right but either way I plan to refill it later on. Bleeding brakes next and hopefully the power steering flush should fix a little bit of my loose steering feel I get from my steering wheel, otherwise I might have ton try myself to restrengthen the bolts in the steering column. Oil and filter as well.

Anything else I'm leaving out as a budding diyer? I don't wanna do too much more without a friends guidance or just taking it to a Rover for rear of messing up ir its too complex.


Edit: damn, glad I did some double decking before I did my power steering after class. The rave says I need to use atf which seems pretty crazy to me and is slightly disappointing as i already bought power steering fluid so I'll have to go back to the store for the atf but at least I can use the other steering fluid to clean out that area.