hey guys, im a little bit of bind and i cant seem to figure it out.

just installed an extra set of 12 volt outlets. ran the power direct from the battery, grounded it to the frame. while testing for a ground location i pop fuse 12 multifunction unit, replaced the fuse and now the truck wont start. get the fuel pump relay click, and then when i turn the key to the final position is get the what i assume is the starter relay click under the dash, but nothing. it feels like what you would get when you try to start the car in gear. any suggestions? i popped the cover off the gearshift to play with the nut i see mentioned in similar posts, but i cant figure out how to get that clip off to get to the nut.

thanks for the help

adam

EDIT. i guess i should tell ya its a 98 with 78k

 

nevermind, im an idiot

 

So what was the problem?

 

Problem was idiocy?

 

yep pretty much.

ya know that fuse i blew. well best i can figure i pulled the bad one, pulled out the spare from the little rack of spares and then i guess i put it right back where i found it, in the spare block. stared at that fuse panel 3 separate times.

BUT whenever someone gets the time i would be interested in knowing how to pop that little clip off from under the gearshift **** without beaking it.

and now the factory cig lighter and the homelink door opener is dead. maybe if i stare at them three times ill figure that one out

 

I would be extremely leery of adding things like a direct 12 volt outlet since the risk of screwing something else up far outweighs (to Me) the benefit of the added item.

Also be careful doing stuff like hooking up trailer wiring unless you have carefully researched what you have.

There was also a new guy a while back that had run his battery down in an LR3 by leaving a door open overnight. He hooked up a battery charger without isolating the battery from the vehicle and burned up his ECU.

So please be aware of potential risk before you cost yourself a lot of money. Better to be cautious than stupid.

 

Can anyone tell me where the starter solenoid relay on a 1995 Discovery 1 is located? I have examined the electronic trouble shooting manual photo, (#149 - K137) but the photo is not sharp enough to tell which relay the arrow is pointing to. There are two rows of relays, if one counts from the left on the top or bottom row which one would it be?

 

That pix is pretty over exposed, hard to tell. Perhaps better to look for color of wire going into relay. Connection C2006 should have brown/white, white/red, black/orange, and brown/red. Not sure if your year has alarm, the starter relay can be inhibited by the alarm if so equipped.

If not relay, like mine, I just had to replace starter because of soleniod. If that is in your future, check with local alternator/starter shop to see what they charge for reworking that. And getting starter in/out will need several extensions and a wobble socket, it was designed by an engineer named Payne Diass.

 

Another way to gain access to the starter is to remove the front passenger's tire, then sitting in the wheel well area, take a pair of aviation tin snips and very carefully cut the inner fender wall along the rear of the panel adjacent to the seam at the rear of the inner fender wall. You can then basically fold it upward out of your way and lo and behold, you are looking directly at the starter.

I found this to be much easier than attempting to gain access as described in the RAVE. Paine did not plan on you doing this, but I much prefer being able to see and reach whatever I need to work on. It also provides excellent access to the y-pipe exhaust falnge on that side.

Upon completion you merely fold the panel back into place. It's just an old pig wearing a dress so do not be afraid to modify it as I descrivbed unless you are a total purist and would not even consider such action.

 

Starter was replaced when I purchased the vehicle, about one year ago. The reason I focus on starter solenoid is the click I hear when I turn the key and the car will not start. Not like the old rapid clicking from a defective solenoid I recall from the days before relays, am I in the right ball park?