Hey all,

replaced my CV joint and now putting the wheel hub/rotor back on. I have two locking nuts separated by a bendable aluminum washer. I’m not sure what the torque values for the inner and outer locking nut are?

looked in the Rave manual, but the setup seems to be different as it’s for the 95 and 96 D1s.

thanks

 

theres a couple different methods over the years. the one from the 97 defender rave manual seems to work best for me.

inside nut: 37ftlbs, spin it around a couple times, loosen, retorque to 7 ftlbs

outside nut: 37 ft lbs

 

thank you! By retrotorque I assume you mean after spinning torque it to 7 ft lb?

you don’t happen to have a good source that describes how to set the float do you?

 

Newbe, here's some information from the Discovery 95/98 MY Workshop Manual. It has detailed instructions for the wheel bearings and end float. The manual is the best tool I bought for my Discos.

The inner wheel bearing nut sets the preload, so it's torque value is important and depends on the bearing design. This manual puts it at 3 ft-lb. That's about as tight as you can turn the 2 inch socket with one hand, after the initial line up torque (45 ft-lb), then 1/4 turn release. The outer nut is spec'd at 45 ft-lb.

The spec for end float is 3 to 10 thousandths. I use a machinists gauge with a magnetic base on the wheel hub, then push and pull the axle with a bolt in the end. Before that, a feeler gauge can be used to determine which size shims to buy. Rovers North sells the shims. End float aligns the CV joint with the swivel bearing axis. So it will probably be different with a new CV joint, depending on the precise cut of the C clip groove. The end float is super easy to access to fine tune if you need to drive. It only really comes into play at the extremes of steering.

RN also sells assorted shims for the swivel bearing pre-load adjustment. I bought a few extra various sizes so it was easy to make adjustment, and was a fairly touchy adjustment process for someone who doesn't do it often. It took several tries to achieve 18 to 25 inch pounds turning torque, prior to fitting the swivel ball seal. Nice and smooth. Not loose, yet easy to turn by hand.

My PO had the hubs all messed up, causing various damage. I was glad I took my time with the front hubs.

 

i do have that manual, but the build of the hub seems to be different, different types of nuts.

 

Need to be clear that after the bearing (packed with grease) goes on, there is a thicker metal washer that goes on next. Then a nut, then a thinner gage washer that needs to be bent, then the final nut. I did not see you mention the inner (thicker) washer.

On the first nut, the object is to move all but a thin layer of grease out of the way to make sure the bearing is fully set into the race without excess play. I don't have a 52mm socket so I use one of the cheap hollow metal tools. If you have a socket the instructions suggest torquing to 90 ft lbs and then backing off and re-toruqing to 4 ft lbs. You are basically looking to squeeze out excess grease and don't want to leave it overly tight. If it spins about a 1/4 turn freely that is about right. It is not entirely scientific in my case.

Then the thin washer is put on and after that the second nut. You can snug up that second nut as tight as you want since it is only hitting the outside of the first nut.

Bend the thinner (outer) washer inward on one side and outward on the other so that the two nuts won't spin apart.

 

Thank you Walt for clarify that! I’m a little concerned though lol, you are the third person to reply and every person so far has reported a different torque value 🥴 ??

The order of bearings/washers you reported is exactly how mine is set up. I splurged for the socket so now I just need to figure out how to set the float.

 

Once we understand the concepts, like Walt explained, the exact torques are indeed over a range of acceptable values. Good mechanics get a feel for it. I gained a lot from Youtube Bear Mach Trailfitter online videos. They give torque values during the tutorials, and there is a good one for Rover front axles and wheel hubs and bearings. Probably worth a half hour of time or so, you can fast forward through the boring parts. They show how to adjust bearing pre-load and float as well. I have to warn you though, the library of videos cover many topics, so Discovery owners may find them addictive. Happy trails!

 

thank you I appreciate that. Everyone likes a good how-to video

 

Rave chapter 54, page 4.

Find RAVE in the link in my signature.


11. Clean stub axle and drive shaft and fit hub
assembly to axle.
12. Fit spacing washer.
13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90°. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of
0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer.
16. Fit locknut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
17. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut
and locknut.