Radio Help
#11
Update....
So i had a blown fuse that was the clock and interior light problem. the problem was that it was the fuse that the fuse diagram says is the trailer fuse. anyway, i changed it and everything works.
got the radio working and all of the speakers. it's not very loud or full sounding but all speakers plus the subs work. there is a short that cuts the driver side speakers off when i hit bumps from time to time the short is located in the sub plug. does this make sense.
So i had a blown fuse that was the clock and interior light problem. the problem was that it was the fuse that the fuse diagram says is the trailer fuse. anyway, i changed it and everything works.
got the radio working and all of the speakers. it's not very loud or full sounding but all speakers plus the subs work. there is a short that cuts the driver side speakers off when i hit bumps from time to time the short is located in the sub plug. does this make sense.
#12
#14
dude i'm sorry i don't know the wording. i had an entire replacement sub unit for some reason. (sometimes i just buy parts just in case) anyway, got the grill off the plastic piece surrounding the sub unit and then the subs themselves. unplugged the old unit and plugged in the new unit.
the drivers side speakers were not working at first until i jiggled the wires around that i plugged into the sub to hook it up.
the drivers side speakers were not working at first until i jiggled the wires around that i plugged into the sub to hook it up.
#15
I don't know what to say, thats just weird. rovers are known on occasion to break the laws of physics and electricity, and have a mind of there own. I think your truck may fall under this category or maybe it has a ghost in the system. I would mess with all the connectors(clean and tighten), checking all the grounds may help too.
#16
Make sure the volume is turned all of the way up on the passenger dash buttons.
Also, it looks like some of the factory wiring was tapped into trying to get to the speakers. Probably realized there was an amp to bypass and ran new wires. That is what you pulled out. Check all of the splices on the factory wiring. The little red thingys aren't factory. The proper way to fix is to cut those out, slip a piece of heat shrink around the wire, solder wire, slide heat shrink up and shrink!
Also, it looks like some of the factory wiring was tapped into trying to get to the speakers. Probably realized there was an amp to bypass and ran new wires. That is what you pulled out. Check all of the splices on the factory wiring. The little red thingys aren't factory. The proper way to fix is to cut those out, slip a piece of heat shrink around the wire, solder wire, slide heat shrink up and shrink!
#19
ha ha wouldn't right hand drive still be on the drivers side? it would be on the right side of the dash, but its on the right side of the dash now isn't it, cause if it wasn't on the right side of the dash it would be on the wrong side of the dash (lol).... ok lets just say on the instrument bezel around the steering wheel!
#20
Update....
So i had a blown fuse that was the clock and interior light problem. the problem was that it was the fuse that the fuse diagram says is the trailer fuse. anyway, i changed it and everything works.
got the radio working and all of the speakers. it's not very loud or full sounding but all speakers plus the subs work. there is a short that cuts the driver side speakers off when i hit bumps from time to time the short is located in the sub plug. does this make sense.
So i had a blown fuse that was the clock and interior light problem. the problem was that it was the fuse that the fuse diagram says is the trailer fuse. anyway, i changed it and everything works.
got the radio working and all of the speakers. it's not very loud or full sounding but all speakers plus the subs work. there is a short that cuts the driver side speakers off when i hit bumps from time to time the short is located in the sub plug. does this make sense.
Folks.....search is your friend.........RS