Radio RMS?
#3
there are too many factors to answer your question the way you want it answered, but first lets start here, are you going to integrate the factory amp or bypass it? if you don't know the answer to that then that should be the first question you ask us.
But I will agree with tweakrover if all you are doing is upgrading the radio then the RMS rating does not matter. but if you really want to know the RMS rating of your factory amp you will need to know the amount of current it is drawing and multiply that by the voltage level that the truck is averaging, now the amplifier has a 15 amp fuse and I would say it does not even use half of that but we will say 9 amps (which I think is high) multiplied by 13.8 volts (which is a close average) that equals 124 watts total power divided by the 6 speakers (not including the subs as they have there own amp) and you are looking at roughly 20 watts per channel. I would still say this is high in fact I would imagine this is more like the peak side, if I actually measured I think an average somewhere between 10 and 15 watts per channel would be about right. aftermarket radios that claim 100 or so total watts power more than likely will never reach that, the ratings of these radios are measured with resistors (instead of speakers) and high voltage levels that would probably only be reproduced if your truck was struck by lightning! on average most aftermarket radios will produce pretty close to equal power as many factory radios these days, however the end result of aftermarket sound quality is usually much better.
sorry for the long explanation but everyones radio output will be a little different as there are many factors that fluctuate base voltage and current draw! if you need any help I am more than happy to do so.
But I will agree with tweakrover if all you are doing is upgrading the radio then the RMS rating does not matter. but if you really want to know the RMS rating of your factory amp you will need to know the amount of current it is drawing and multiply that by the voltage level that the truck is averaging, now the amplifier has a 15 amp fuse and I would say it does not even use half of that but we will say 9 amps (which I think is high) multiplied by 13.8 volts (which is a close average) that equals 124 watts total power divided by the 6 speakers (not including the subs as they have there own amp) and you are looking at roughly 20 watts per channel. I would still say this is high in fact I would imagine this is more like the peak side, if I actually measured I think an average somewhere between 10 and 15 watts per channel would be about right. aftermarket radios that claim 100 or so total watts power more than likely will never reach that, the ratings of these radios are measured with resistors (instead of speakers) and high voltage levels that would probably only be reproduced if your truck was struck by lightning! on average most aftermarket radios will produce pretty close to equal power as many factory radios these days, however the end result of aftermarket sound quality is usually much better.
sorry for the long explanation but everyones radio output will be a little different as there are many factors that fluctuate base voltage and current draw! if you need any help I am more than happy to do so.
Last edited by Rover Chris; 08-13-2010 at 12:07 AM.
#4
im just gonna buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
its cheap and serves its purpose
its cheap and serves its purpose
#5
you will still need to determine how you plan to wire it, your truck should have a separate factory amp in the passenger kick panel, and it requires a low level signal, so you will need a special harness to use it or you will need to rewire the system to bypass the amp. also the antenna is different so you will need an adapter for that.
like I said if you need help just ask. I also would like to point out that brand of radio is pretty common for breaking, I would suggest buying used for your price range.
the amp integration harness is Metra 70-1786, other companies make them but this is the common one.
like I said if you need help just ask. I also would like to point out that brand of radio is pretty common for breaking, I would suggest buying used for your price range.
the amp integration harness is Metra 70-1786, other companies make them but this is the common one.
#8
if your speakers work, it has to have the amp. The landrover factory head unit has no power itself. All the power comes from the amp. This was the situation i was dealing with when i was flirting with replacing mine.
WHEN i do it, im going to cut out the amp all together and run new wire to all the doors. It'll be a pain but i'll feel good knowing i have new, good wire to every speaker, and i'll have removed the rats nest that is the factory amp and will be dealing with normal stereo wiring from that point forward.
Good luck
WHEN i do it, im going to cut out the amp all together and run new wire to all the doors. It'll be a pain but i'll feel good knowing i have new, good wire to every speaker, and i'll have removed the rats nest that is the factory amp and will be dealing with normal stereo wiring from that point forward.
Good luck
#9
thats probably because the amp isn't under there, that's where they put the CD changer. the amp is high in the passenger kick panel, kind of behind the glove box but further to the right (although I think dropping the glove box may give you a little better access but I don't remember)
and to Turf63 if I may give you a professional suggestion, don't rewire the whole truck, it is not only easier just to run 4 sets of speaker wire from the radio right to the output of the amp, but if you ever decide for any reason (like possibly selling the truck) to return to stock, it is just a quick plug in and problem solved! the factory wiring is as good if not better than what most shops would install, so in theory all you would be doing by taking my advice is saving yourself some time and money! just make sure you keep the amp harness unplugged and tap into the wires instead of cutting them. also just so it helps, the front tweeters and front mid range speakers are wired parallel, so you will have 4 sets of speaker wires coming from the amp and not 6. and because of the fact that the factory HU was not amplified the required current was much lower than any aftermarket HU you would install and I have found that not only in my truck but others as well, ground issues often come out in the factory harness. I reinforced my ground and all was well.
if you need the wire colors from the amp they are in the rave manual, or if schematics give you trouble I can look it up and give them to you.
and to Turf63 if I may give you a professional suggestion, don't rewire the whole truck, it is not only easier just to run 4 sets of speaker wire from the radio right to the output of the amp, but if you ever decide for any reason (like possibly selling the truck) to return to stock, it is just a quick plug in and problem solved! the factory wiring is as good if not better than what most shops would install, so in theory all you would be doing by taking my advice is saving yourself some time and money! just make sure you keep the amp harness unplugged and tap into the wires instead of cutting them. also just so it helps, the front tweeters and front mid range speakers are wired parallel, so you will have 4 sets of speaker wires coming from the amp and not 6. and because of the fact that the factory HU was not amplified the required current was much lower than any aftermarket HU you would install and I have found that not only in my truck but others as well, ground issues often come out in the factory harness. I reinforced my ground and all was well.
if you need the wire colors from the amp they are in the rave manual, or if schematics give you trouble I can look it up and give them to you.
#10
thats probably because the amp isn't under there, that's where they put the CD changer. the amp is high in the passenger kick panel, kind of behind the glove box but further to the right (although I think dropping the glove box may give you a little better access but I don't remember)
and to Turf63 if I may give you a professional suggestion, don't rewire the whole truck, it is not only easier just to run 4 sets of speaker wire from the radio right to the output of the amp, but if you ever decide for any reason (like possibly selling the truck) to return to stock, it is just a quick plug in and problem solved! the factory wiring is as good if not better than what most shops would install, so in theory all you would be doing by taking my advice is saving yourself some time and money! just make sure you keep the amp harness unplugged and tap into the wires instead of cutting them. also just so it helps, the front tweeters and front mid range speakers are wired parallel, so you will have 4 sets of speaker wires coming from the amp and not 6. and because of the fact that the factory HU was not amplified the required current was much lower than any aftermarket HU you would install and I have found that not only in my truck but others as well, ground issues often come out in the factory harness. I reinforced my ground and all was well.
if you need the wire colors from the amp they are in the rave manual, or if schematics give you trouble I can look it up and give them to you.
and to Turf63 if I may give you a professional suggestion, don't rewire the whole truck, it is not only easier just to run 4 sets of speaker wire from the radio right to the output of the amp, but if you ever decide for any reason (like possibly selling the truck) to return to stock, it is just a quick plug in and problem solved! the factory wiring is as good if not better than what most shops would install, so in theory all you would be doing by taking my advice is saving yourself some time and money! just make sure you keep the amp harness unplugged and tap into the wires instead of cutting them. also just so it helps, the front tweeters and front mid range speakers are wired parallel, so you will have 4 sets of speaker wires coming from the amp and not 6. and because of the fact that the factory HU was not amplified the required current was much lower than any aftermarket HU you would install and I have found that not only in my truck but others as well, ground issues often come out in the factory harness. I reinforced my ground and all was well.
if you need the wire colors from the amp they are in the rave manual, or if schematics give you trouble I can look it up and give them to you.
This man knows the Truth!!! Although if i ever sell it im gonna leave the radio in it that is why i bought one for $50 and didn't put my sexy alpine in it.