So before I was not getting pressure, but now after fixing a couple small leaks I'm getting good brake pressure from the caliper bleeders, but yet, my rear brakes are not engaging during driving. If I pump up the pedal while sitting at home with it jacked up, I cannot spin the wheels, but I can tell that the brakes haven't really been working because the face of the rotors are still smooth as they were brand new (have not been worn down to the smoothness yet like the fronts have). I have replaced the rear calipers, all the lines leading almost up to the ABS modulator (I didn't actually take the lines off the modulator though), and I have no leaks in the system anymore. I have a soft brake pedal that has to be pushed almost to the floor before the brakes engage and it was totally firm before brake replacement (minus the terrible pulsation I got when braking due to warped rotors, which is why I did the brakes in the first place). Any one have ideas why this would be happening?

 

When your rolling out is the ABS light on and then go out when your going faster than 5 mph or is it always on/off?

 

I have never seen the ABS light come on since having the vehicle, nor have I felt it engage (though I've never had to slam on the brakes)

 

I've been told to take it to a brake shop that can go into the ABS system and see if it needs to be "unlocked" in order to bleed them well

 

Well, it should come on when you first start the truck and remain on until your rolling over 5 mph, then it will extinguish. Either someone has pulled the fuses or it's ECU is junk. Now, normally when your pedal goes to the floor it's the master cylinder, fluid is leaking past the piston seals. But you've said it was fine before all this fun began. So that is why I was thinking something is going on (or not) with the ABS. Anyways...... if you pump your brakes when coming to a stop does the pedal pressure increase? It should. If it does that means there's still air in the system. Pushing the air out with engine off won't do it. Try bleeding the brakes with the motor running....... see if the booster will assist pushing out that last air bubble.

 

if you had small leaks and were sucking in air, along with all the parts you replaced you need to do a complete bleed and flush.

 

How do you do that?

 

I believe I read that the order for bleeding is RF, LF, RR, LR, for when you do flush it

 

And is flushing it just bleeding it so much that you completely empty it of all the old fluid?

 

Has anyone had any experience with the rear brakes getting "locked out" by the ABS system?