Okay, so my rear brakes recently started making a scraping/dragging sound, and I know I will need to order parts, so I parked it and am driving my pickup instead. I also got an alignment recently since I accidentally put the Rover in a very deep snowbank and figured I might have thrown something off. While I had it in, I had them check the rear brakes (could have done it myself, but they didn't charge me, lol).

So the verdict is I have a jammed right rear caliper, and the pad on that side is worn down to bare metal. I should have noticed sooner, but I've spent so much time working on the power steering/coolant system/tune up items that it escaped me. Yes the rig was new to me about 3 months ago, and I've been playing catchup ever since.

So here is my question, what parts do I need to get before I tear it apart? I've done plenty of brake jobs, but usually I use a second vehicle and buy the parts after everything is disassembled. With this vehicle I can't get many parts locally, so I'm planning for the worst.

Here's what I've observed:
I need rear pads, already bought those.
I need rear hardware, which for some reason was not included with the pads.
The rotors are not deeply scored or rutted. They look almost new, in fact. I don't know if they've been resurfaced before though. I read in RAVE the minimum thickness is 12mm, I believe, but is it possible to get an accurate measurement with the rotors in place? Or do I have to take them off and use a fancy measuring device?
Could the caliper be damaged? Is there a way to determine this before taking it off?

If I do the rotors, I intend to have a few wheel bearings on hand in case I need them. Basically my question is not how to do a brake job, but how to organize the logistics to minimize down time. Down time wouldn't be a big deal, but I may sell my pickup soon and would like to fix this first.

It looks like I won't need any special tools if I do just the pads, but I may need some special sockets if I intend to do the rotors as well. Am I correct in my assumptions? I just don't want to turn a simple brake job into a nightmare of not having the right parts or tools.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Here are parts I am considering ordering:

Brake hardware: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC8574.cfm
Braided steel hoses: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ABP214L.cfm
Wheel bearings: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9002D.cfm
Rotors: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR017953.cfm
Fuel filter kit: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8989.cfm

Some of those are elective, and some are unrelated. The fuel filter kit is the last item I have on the 60k service. If I do the rotors, I'll probably need a few more seals/gaskets for the hub assembly, right? I know some of that is included already with the wheel bearing kits.

For pads I have the lifetime-warranty Auto Zone Durralast pads. Is there anything else I need to consider or pre-order?

Thanks again.

 

That wheel bearing kit has all you need in it.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/606435.cfm
Or any 2-1/16 deep well would work. I even used large slip joint pliers the first time I did my bearings.

As far as that rear caliper, i dont know what they mean by jammed. One of the pistons may be frozen. The calipers on a D1 are fixed, not floating. They have 2 pistons(fronts have 4), one for each pad on each side of the rotor. You can tell if one of the pistons is froze just by removing the wheel. Look at the pads, if one is worn alot more than the other, frozen piston. If both pads on the same wheel are close to being worn an even amount, caliper is fine.

If you do the wheel bearings, you will also need a drift or punch to knock out the bearing race from the hub.

But it looks like you are on the right track and well prepared. I would def recommend soaking the connections at the fuel filter multiple times over a few days with PB Blaster or similar before attempting. They are a PITA.

 

OK thanks for the tips. I will get that socket, it seems like something worth having. I'm pretty sure the piston is seized/frozen. The passenger rear rotor has more wear on it than the others, just slightly. I mean it has a 1/16" indentation rather than no indentation at all. And the pad is gone, whereas the other pads appear to still have some life left. When I turn the wheel I can hear and feel a slight scraping noise, the same noise I hear while driving.

Could this be just because the pad is worn down, or is it indicative of a frozen piston?

If the piston is frozen, can it be pushed back in and still work, or do I need to rebuild/replace the caliper?

Will it be obvious if I need new rotors, or should I remove them and use fancy tools to get an accurate measurement?

It seems like I'll need 12-point sockets or wrenches for the removing the caliper, and possibly other parts of the job, what size socket(s) should I get? I may just buy a full set, but if I only need one or two then that wouldn't make sense.

I will thoroughly lube the connections at the fuel filter. However, if I have to cut it off, I will, hence buying the kit which comes with new hoses.

Final question. After I've done the rear brakes, the front will need some attention within a month or two, since it occasionally squeaks. Are there any additional steps I should be aware of before diving into that, or will it be similar to the rear (and require the same tools) since both are disk brakes?

Again, thanks in advance.

 

Take the rotors to a shop to have them turned. The shop will tell you if they can or not. No need to buy the tools yourself to check. I know you can find some auto part stores that will still turn rotors and drums for about $5-15 each rotor. Heckofa lot cheaper than buying new. And if they are grooved too deep or below the minimum thickness required, the shop will tell you and will refuse to turn them.

 

Just don't go to a dealership, they can turn rotors, but usually for a half hour labor rate charge per rotor. $$$$

 

No worries, there are no Rover dealerships around... Nearest one is a 3 hour drive.

So there's not a good way to estimate if they are salvageable without removing them? Reason I ask is I'd like to minimize downtime if I can. Also I have a discount code for Atlantic British, so I'd like to fit as much of this on one order as I can.

Still wondering about the caliper with the seized piston. Is it junk, or it there a chance it can be simply compressed & reused?

Yeah the local Checker-Shucks-Kragen-Oreiley-whatever-you-call-them-now still turns rotors, about $10 each.

So far everyone has said remove the caliper and then measure it/have it measured, so maybe I'll just have to settle for more downtime. Or maybe I'll just start with new rotors and save the old ones if they are still good, have an extra pair.

 

If you can afford new, that would be a good route. If you look and see no grooves, then take it in and have Schucks turn them. Worse case scenario you have to put the old pads on the old rotors until your new rotors arrive. But at least you would know. My thought is that rotors, drums and calipers get replaced way too often. They are repairable/machineable back to usable condition as long as they are within specs. The caliper may have 'froze' up because of dirt and water being flung up from the road. Happens to Chevy trucks, that's why the factory put mud guards at the front of the rear tire, to protect the calipers. Without the guards, the dirt and water would cause the inside pads to wear ten times faster than the outside pads. The calipers were fine, just the pads would wear out. All it took from Chevy was having cheap mud guards installed instead of replacing expensive calipers.

 

So here's my game plan then:

Order the following -
1 Hub nut socket http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/606435.cfm
2 Stub axle joint washers http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FTC3650.cfm
2 Wheel bearing kits http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9002D.cfm
1 Rear brake hardware kit http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC8574.cfm
1 Fuel filter kit http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8989.cfm
2 Rear brake rotors http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR017953.cfm
Plus I already have the rear brake pads.

Looks like the only components in the brake rebuild kit which are not in the wheel bearing kit are the 2 stub axle joint washers, that's why I added those. I guess I'll figure out where they go as I disassemble.

My plan of action for the brake calipers is to remove them, clean them thoroughly, and see if they can be compressed with a C-clamp or similar. If not, I guess I'll order caliper rebuild parts and have the calipers re-honed. In that case I'll just have to hold off on selling the Ford and deal with the down time, lol.

I'll plan on buying a bearing race punch at the local parts store after I have the hubs off, so I can choose an appropriate size. Either that or I'll take the hubs to a shop and have them R&R the bearings. If the old bearings still look & feel good, I'll just repack them with grease and call it good.

Finally, I'll install everything with the new rotors, take the old rotors to be machined, and have a spare set for the next time I do a rear brake job.

Sound like a good plan? Am I overlooking anything? What is the best way to test or inspect the wheel bearings on these?

 

I don't know who you been talking to but they are all WRONG.

Per Land Rover, these rotors are not supposed to be turned.

I primarily use Rovers North as my first choice to research and purchase parts for my Discovery. They fully support all Land Rovers ever made. They also carry their own brand (ProLine) that is more economical than LR but also carry LR Original Equipment when available. I bought their rotor and pad sets that are roughly 100 bucks per axle for a good pad and rotor set. I doubt you can beat that price.

I also bought new rear calipers from them as mine were in sad shape. Again an excellent price for an exact replacement. They have all the pieces you need in a fittring kit.

Their website has excellent exploded views that show you all the parts, part numbers and prices. Better than any other site I am aware of. I get the page on screen and then call them on the phone. They are a great source of information and don't mind answering questions as well.

Of course, if you can find the right parts at a better price, go for it.

But personally, I avoid almost all of the big chain stores that claim to have everything for everyone because they usually are very little help on a 15 year old Discovery I.

Try Rovers North if you want excellent service at a great price with all the correct parts to fit your Discovery. That is what I do. Not everyone will agree, but that's their choice.

I plan on keeping mine a long time, and I have been very happy with everything I have gotten from Rovers North. To date I have purchased brake pad and rotor sets, rear calipers, front brake lines, air filters, oil filters, gasket sets, bearing sets, all the small parts for the CDL linkage, adapter for removing the bearing lock nuts, new lock washers and gaskets, new caliper and hub mounting bolts, and various other small parts as needed. I for one appreciate their dedicated support of all the early Land Rover models and their detailed knowledge about my vehicle.

You will not find that at any chain parts store.