I like Rovers North also and will double check my prices. Atlantic British occasionally has some stuff that I haven't found at RN, such as new sockets & pigtails for my headlights. Also they gave me a 10% discount after my first purchase, hence me shopping there again. I'm going by the RAVE spec which says the rotors can be machined as long is you don't go below 12mm. But I'll be going new for now just for convenience, and if my old rotors are too thin I'll discard them.

 

It has to do with the construction of the rotors. They are not made to be turned. If below 12 you discard. Above 12 and not scarred too badly, you reuse.

I bought from AB sporadically, but prefer RN. One may have better specials than the other from time to time. AB sometimes has codes for a bigger discount. RN may be willig to match AB's price, I don't know but it could not hurt to ask either.

I just avoid the cheap parts places due to usually inferior products that I do not want on MY Discovery.

 

Quality seemed good on both my RN purchases and my one AB purchase. I agree that I don't want cheap parts. Is RAVE wrong then?

Section 51.2.11, Disc reclamation:
Check disc thickness. This dimension may be reduced to a minimum thickness of 12 mm. Machine equal amounts off each face.

If it's better to simply reuse, I can do that, but if I'm re-using it I'd just assume not pull the hub. Hence wanting to measure it in place.

 

You need to pull the hub anyway to grease the wheel bearings which should be done every 5k miles I think it is. You do not want to ignore those wheel bearings. If they fail, they can weld themselves in place and be a real problem to get off.

 

Point taken. I usually grease my wheel bearings once a year, right before wheeling season starts. Just a habit from every trail rig I've ever owned. Maybe I'll step it up a bit, since this truck sees about 8 to 9000 miles per year.

 

You won't need that stub axle gasket. The hub/bearings come off seperatly from the stub axle. No need to tear that far into it unless you can't get a hub bearing off the stub axle( it happens).

As far as the caliper, pull the wheel, pull the pads out the caliper(no need to remove caliper for this) and clean the pistons as best as you can. Remove the brake fluid resivoir cap,or crack open the bleeder valve, and try to press the pistons in with a large flat head screwdriver,small prybar,etc. If they compress in fairly easily, I'd say it's ok.

If you do need to remove it, yes, 12pt, I believe 13mm, but can not say for sure. It's been a while since I've had mine off.

 

I haven't read all of the posts but if you are planning on messing with the brake calipers get a 13mm 12point socket. If you are messing with the rotors and hubs get a
2 1/16" socket (BIG SOCKET!). If you go to partsgeek.com you can find some Centric brake calipers for $38/ea and I have had them on for about 3 months and no problems. You can also get the Brake Hardware for about $8 - $10.

 

Is this what I was calling the stub axle joint washer? Does this problem only occur if the bearings have welded themselves to the stub axle? That would seize the wheel, right? So as long as it's still drivable I don't need the stub axle joint washer, right?

Since I don't have the parts yet, I will do a practice tear-down on Friday or Saturday. That will give me a chance to check the caliper before I order parts, and also a chance to lubricate everything that needs to be loosened.

I'm already getting the 2 1/6" socket, and it looks like I'll probably need to have that 13mm 12-point on hand. Thanks for the tip, if the caliper is suspect, I'll replace it. Rovers and Atlantic both had the hardware for less though.

 

Calebbo, mine's a '96, so it may be a different part. However, I think partsgeek #275-05105826 is the same basic model and is $39. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...e_caliper.html What does this mean, "Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper"? Does that just mean it has pistons & seals but no pads? Or is there something else it's missing that makes it only "semi-loaded"?

 

Fully loaded from what i saw on other websites means it comes with pads. When you get the "semi-loaded" it has everything you need except the pads (Brake Caliper & Pistons with seals).

Compress the pistons first with a c-clamp or flathead and push the pads towards the piston, makes the job SO MUCH EASIER!
All you do is take off the brake line from the old brake caliper,
Take off the 2 retaining bolts (what hold the brake caliper on),
Then reattach the brake line,
Compress the pistons on the new caliper (C-CLAMP),
Refit the new caliper and fit in brake pads
DONT FORGET TO BLEED YOUR BREAKS! (rear right, rear left, front right, front left)

You probably already knew that but it helped me remember since I have a competition coming up over simple things like that