rear window ecu fix leads to drivers front window not working
#1
rear window ecu fix leads to drivers front window not working
Can hear the switch click but the front window wont go up. I disconnected the negative lead on the battery while i was screwing around with the rear ecu circuit board. I have to get that window up this am. Any thoughts? Thanks.
#4
Before you spring for a new ECU do a search on here and you can find another fix for the rear windows not working and that is a jumper to bypass the ECU completely. I would try that to rule out the ECU. If it still doesn't work than you know the ECU is fine and you can look at replacing the motor.
#5
sorry I can see that post was a little confusing. I got the rear windows working and the passenger front window still works, so not a fuse. Pulled off the switch plate on the center counsel and they all seem to be attached firmly. I guess I could have just randomly blown the window motor 12 hours after fixing the rear windows. I'm going to pull the door apart this pm from Rave instructions and see if I can figure out something obvious. No mechanic here by any stretch. If I see something funny I'll try to post a picture.
#6
When you get access to the motor, try applying 12 volts directly to the motor connections and see if it works before you tear it apart. Won't hurt to try.
Also, did you reflow all the solder joints on the ecu board? Maybe you got a loose connection somewhere. Use a multimeter and make some readings.
I had a window switch go bad one time. A quick way to check that out is to unplug the other front switch and swap it in, since you know it is good. You may have a bad switch if you have not confirmed it with a meter. Just because you can hear it "click" don't mean it is working.
Also, did you reflow all the solder joints on the ecu board? Maybe you got a loose connection somewhere. Use a multimeter and make some readings.
I had a window switch go bad one time. A quick way to check that out is to unplug the other front switch and swap it in, since you know it is good. You may have a bad switch if you have not confirmed it with a meter. Just because you can hear it "click" don't mean it is working.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 09-04-2010 at 11:26 PM.
#7
Thanks Danny Lee. Lots to chew on there. Unfortunately, I did get the motor out. Haven't had time to test it yet, but i can tell it will be a pain to get back in. Good point on the ecu board. It's hard to get back in there so I may have broken another solder. I'll probably check that next. The switches are under the dash right?
The following users liked this post:
Kyechieli (10-01-2022)
#9
Why are you soldering the ECU Board with it still installed?
All you have to do to extract it from the housing is yank it straight toward the passenger's seat. Slightly difficult to remove but it does unplug. Then you have the luxury of working on it on the bench so to speak.
I was an Aviation Electrician in the Navy, so I take it for granted that most "electrical " problems are relatively simple if you follow simple step by step evaluation/verifiaction. Best way to fault isolate/troubleshoot is with a multimeter. You can get a decent GreenLee meter for less than 30 bucks at a variety of places. If you don't have a meter, you can also substitute a known good part in to see if the problem is a switch for example, swap swit see if the problem moves with the switch. Be creative, use your mind.
"A mind is a terrible thing to waste, so is good whiskey and wild women."
All you have to do to extract it from the housing is yank it straight toward the passenger's seat. Slightly difficult to remove but it does unplug. Then you have the luxury of working on it on the bench so to speak.
I was an Aviation Electrician in the Navy, so I take it for granted that most "electrical " problems are relatively simple if you follow simple step by step evaluation/verifiaction. Best way to fault isolate/troubleshoot is with a multimeter. You can get a decent GreenLee meter for less than 30 bucks at a variety of places. If you don't have a meter, you can also substitute a known good part in to see if the problem is a switch for example, swap swit see if the problem moves with the switch. Be creative, use your mind.
"A mind is a terrible thing to waste, so is good whiskey and wild women."
#10
I must be the worst communicator ever. I did remove the ecu the first time. Solder it. Put it back in and boom the rear windows worked perfectly. Was so proud I drove it around the neighborhood with all the windows down. The next morning the driver side front window no longer worked. So, my comment was only that putting the ecu board back in may have damaged something. You are right though, electricity is difficult. I have an old meter from my Dad, but I'll have to do some research as to how to use it.
I did get the motor back in with some help from the neighbors. Nobody ever posts how hard it is to do that . My new problem is that one of the lower "arms" came off the sliding thing (like those technical terms?). So, now that everything is screwed back down and tight I'm not sure what to do. My thought is to hook the motor up to the car battery and turn it on. Tough to know what gear it's in though as the last working function was down and I think I need it to go up to slide that arm back into the sleeve.
Someone has a quote on here that it's only a machine. I like that quote more and more. Fun though. I guess I'll take the ECU back out and solder some stuff, or figure out how the meter works.
I did get the motor back in with some help from the neighbors. Nobody ever posts how hard it is to do that . My new problem is that one of the lower "arms" came off the sliding thing (like those technical terms?). So, now that everything is screwed back down and tight I'm not sure what to do. My thought is to hook the motor up to the car battery and turn it on. Tough to know what gear it's in though as the last working function was down and I think I need it to go up to slide that arm back into the sleeve.
Someone has a quote on here that it's only a machine. I like that quote more and more. Fun though. I guess I'll take the ECU back out and solder some stuff, or figure out how the meter works.