Hey, I've got a 98 D1 and cannot figure out my rear window issue. I had an electrical mechanic check for all the correct power to places. He got the windows to go up and down by using some kind of current tester he had. He told me it was the fuse. I replaced the fuse the next day once he was gone and still cant get the windows to work. I have pulled the switched in the center console and noticed I do not have power to the rear switches. I read a thread a day or so ago about the ECU, so I pulled the ECU and found the common "dry solder". I soldered it back in nicely and put it back in place and plugged it in. Still no power to the switches. I assume I need power to the rear switches because I have power to the front switches and when I ground one side or another the windows will go up and down respectively. I tried the sticky page and could not find the "how to" link, it was unavailable for some reason. Any help would be much appreciated thanks!

 

my first thought is - are you sure you got all the cold solder joints repaired?
the ECU fix solved my rear windows no worky - I also re soldered all the large posts from that relay and checked the rest with a jewelers glass , or magnifying glass if you have one.

 

Yeah I think I got the only bad solder fixed. How can I check something like that though? It looks to be set and connected correctly but I dont have a magnifying glass.

 

So I started looking at the Atlantic British ECU Fix kit and figured I could just make my own kit. However, the wire in the H position in the diagram is not White/Pink, it is Black/Blue. Have any idea as to why that may be? Could I still follow those directions and get them working? Thanks

 

Is your window lockout/child lockout switch on?

 

use your phone camera if no manifying glass - works in a pinch

there is a write up somewhere about bypassing the rear window part of the ECU and providing direct power - pretty much what the AB wiring does IIRC.

 

Your looking for "cold" solder joints. They don't shine like the rest. Hit every one with a hot iron and add silver solder to it, usually it's the largest solder joints.

The write-up on LRRForums is kaput about fixing the rear window lift ECU otherwise I'd link it........ I bookmarked it and it's also listed in the "Tech" section at the top of the home page of the D1 section.

 

This is the one from AB. Doing this this weekend as my rear windows have finally stopped working.

https://www.roverparts.com/Techtips/WindowLiftRepair.cfm

 

not sure if youve tried but to resolder is really easy - you can unbolt the two nuts at the front of the ECU and swing the whole thing down (you have to remove one other bolt that holds a bracket below) for better access - and pop the front off and slide the board out - took me all of 15 minutes once I realized to release the 2 nuts

 

Yeah I've already pulled my board, was a super pain. I'm going to do the bypass because it's a bit corroded and looks like someone tried to repair it already. That or I'll snag one from a junkyard.