So I purchased the ebc rebuild kit from roverparts.com to put on my 97 disco. It comes with several washers and seals
Land Rover Discovery Performance Brake Rebuild Kit (EBC) - Land Rover Brake Parts at Roverparts.com
From reading on here some I also knew that I want to replace/check my wheel bearings. So first question is how do I tell if they are bad? Autozone has a part # that someone posted on here of new bearings for 15$ but I need 6 of them to replace them all but I'm not really sure how to tell if they are "bad". To me the first old one I've gotten to appears to....not have wrong motion and roll like I would expect one too.

2nd, there is lots of talk about replacing/checking the swivel pin. Can someone explain this to me more maybe? I know what I'm supposed to be looking at from the Rave but I guess I don't know again what is "bad" and if I need to replace/fix do something while i'm elbows and a$$cheeks in grease in there. As far as I can tell the...big giant circle ball thing doesn't appear to be leaking.

I got one wheel off with everything removed except the rotor from the outer hub, just need to brace that somehow to remove the back 5 bolts. It honestly was easier then I thought it would be so far. So really all I think I don't understand was what exactly makes a bad bearing and what do I need to specifically look for on the swivel pin stuff?

You guys are all awesome. Thanks!

 

Download the RAVE. The proceedure to check pre-load on the pin is in there.

http://www.landroverresource.com/rave.zip

 

You need 8 bearings to replace them all, 2 per hub.
Here's a document on bearing damage analysis:
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...ments/6347.pdf

Lay your wheel down hub side up and place the removed hub in the wheel, then you should be able to get enough leverage to remove the rotor retaining bolts.

 

Hah one of my buddys came over Saturday morning to help and after 10 minutes of messing with it he thought of that also. GREAT tip though!

I also read someone say make sure you have bearings on hand, and a 13mm 12pt socket, and a 2-1/16" socket. Picked up some Timken bearings at autozone, had a 13mm, and figured i'd do something else for the socket since no one around here has one of those. Got it apart....and put back until I realized what it went to. Figured a "0.010mm" spec was pretty exact...better find a friggin huge socket. Called some friends who called some friends....one of them knew the lead mechanic at a concrete company. They obviously work on bigger things then land rovers, although he did ask if we were working on a tank or something.

Overall the process was pretty straight forward once I had the proper tools. (proper tools are handy...) Anyone have any great ideas on how to get on and off that outer cir-clip thing? For something so small that was almost the hardest part I would say.

1 - Should the calipers have anything special done to them? All the pistons appeared to move freely. No binding or anything as I clamped them back in. Just cleaned them up and put them back on. The old pads were TERRIBLE. I'll take a pic tonight and post them, but they were pretty much gone on several of the pads. Which made me wonder about the calipers, how should the pads wear? I would assume equally, but on the fronts, the inside pads were almost gone, and on the outside pads there was maybe....1/4" of pad left. Would that be a sign the calipers aren't pushing evenly?

2 - Anyway, the fronts I think went ok. It was on the back that I was not 100% sure about things.
Pulled the outer hub plate thing off. It's attached to a really long shaft. Soon as I pulled the back left out, it started leaking....a rather liquid-y grease. I'm still kinda new to what all these grease's should look like, but it looked way to runny to me.
A) should this leak when that shaft is pulled out?
B) why would this be like that? is water getting in there somehow? I probably need to flush it anyway but I'm not sure if i need to take care of this NOW or just let the little bit leak out and flush it when i can. It does normally pull a boat, so it's butt end is often in water when launching and getting back out.

3 - The kit i bought came with 2 "Hub Oil Seal With ABS - Rear". I assume that these go on the axle shaft, between it and the axle shaft joint washer thing. They fit there perfectly, and look like they should go there....however there was NOT any on there when I pulled it out. So should those go there? I assume so...but wasn't sure.

4 - and i think lastly here, can i just put that ABS ring back on? My EBC pads came with some sensors wired in to them, but i wasn't sure where to put them. I just put that ABS ring back in how i thought it was, and it seems right. No abs lights....


Sorry for the book and thanks for everyones advice.

 

Dude, pull the hub (everything attached to the brake rotor) off the stub axle, the two seals you are looking for and the 7th and 8th bearing (one per side for each) are in the back. Be very careful putting it back on, lube up the stub axle as you can roll the seal lip quite easily.

There is another seal that holds the gear oil in the differential and axle housing. It is in the backside of the stub axle. If you find that the liquid in your bearing cavity is not water this seal is likely bad and that is 90 weight from the differential mixing with your bearing grease. It is also easy to ruin by being too rough removing the axle or sliding it in dry.

get the RAVE, lots of pictures, study it and it will become clear.

Good luck

 

Have the rave, and followed it. The seal that I think you're talking about, and what the rave has it calls the "grease seal". It's between, or well "in" the axle and the first inner wheel bearing. That I got a new one of and replaced. It was...lets say 3" in size. The seal that I am not sure about, that came with the kit, was about 1.5 to 2" in size and fit perfectly over the long axle shaft. It fit perfectly between the 2 1/16" outer lock nut and the 5 bolt axle shaft outside housing. What I wasn't sure about, was this isn't listed in the rave anywhere that I could find, nor was there one actually ON there when I took it off.

I actually finished this all up on Saturday and drove ~25 miles. Nothing appears to be leaking...or breaking...or making bad sounds so I'm really just trying to make sure nothing WILL make these sounds.

I obviously don't know perfectly what I'm doing, but I really do pay attention and read as much as I can.

 

That is the second seal I am talking about. You have to remove the giant nut holding the hub on, slide the hub off and there is the stub axle. Remove all the bolts around the stub axle and take it off. Seal is in the backside of stub axle. .

 

here is a pic:


You replaced #7, the smaller one is #8

 

As far as the circlip, They make a special set of pliers called CirClip Pliers any major car parts place has them.

When you re-assemble the hub, you are supposewd to torque it then loosen it then re-tighten like a quarter turn, there is a you tube video on doing it. YouTube - LandroverWorkshopDVD.com How to change a land rover range rover wheelbearing brake disc hub caliper