They also build cars nowadays that they can't be worked on by normal people, or you have to remove half the engine to change the headlight.
Stuff now is built to be disposable. People aren't supposed to work on vehicles and keep them for 20 years.
Newer radiator are built to match the life expectancy of the vehicle. So the newer style may work, but that doesn't necessarily mean its just as good as the original.

 

I'm not seeing how that's relevant to the issue in the thread I linked to. Or are you suggesting that if one of the plastic fittings breaks off it's an easy fix?

 

I see what you are saying now... your first post was a little confusing... You are saying how easy it is to break something on the plastic and then you have to buy a whole new rad as opposed to being able to repair.

 

Tanks are replaceable. 45 plus labor

 

Not in the field.
It doesn't really matter much now. Something to keep in mind isn't only initial cost, but also how easily is it field repairable?

 

You seem to have easily objectable concerns, that with a little common sense can be answered, or the risk assessment is flawed as compared to other risks.

I appreciate your input, it is rather taxing and contrived.

Of the entire operation, you seem to be extremely focused on the smallest and least of my concerns. A rePlacement radiator,
My old radiator was not fixable, I tried, read my other posts.
A very cheap reluctor ring broke. 125 dollar part hundreds or more in labor if I had to rely on a mechanic.

This is a good ending. Owner wins and a landy stays on the road.

So what exactly is your interest or concern?

 

I did a little research and FWIW brand new expedition style trucks such as the HDJ79 seem to still be using copper core radiators. However, off-road racing trucks use aluminum for weight savings. Not trying to make a point. Just food for thought.

 

What's a hdj79? Is it comparable to a stock disco?

 

It's the "real" Land Cruiser (70 series) the rest of the world gets, and all the overlanders want.

 

The DI radiator is up and out of the way of most harm, if you damage something bad enough to crack the end tanks then you have bigger problems, like bent steering rod, busted springs, etc.

I agree that the OEM DI radiator is superior to the plastic tank ones, but when a guy is on a budget he has to use what he can afford.
And each person needs to asses what they actually use their truck for, do they only competition rock crawl? Or drive the kids to school during the week and the boat to the lake on Saturday?
Not everyone is a hard core offroader who beats the hell out of their truck every weekend, some of us need to drive it to work on Mon., and pay the bill's, and put gas in the tank, food on the table...

As for the life expectancy of a radiator, they all have a expected life span, even the all copper ones.
My wifes Volvo has a cheap *** aluminum core plastic tank radiator, it is original, 200,000+ miles, its a 1995.
It is leaking because it is coming apart at the seam but you have to remove the whole front of the car to replace it, brand new OEM radiator is $200.
So that lasted almost 20 years, honestly, how many of you actually think your truck that you are driving today is going to be on the road 20 years from now?

I've always said this and I will say it again, buy whatever YOU can afford, it is YOUR truck, if you cannot afford to spend $10 per quart on motor oil then dont, if you can and you want to, fine.
If YOU cant afford to spend $500 on "special" brake rotors and pads then dont.