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Rust in the rear

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  #11  
Old 02-07-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by slanginsanjuan
that's totally on the subject.

im talking about non structural effecting holes from say 4" square and smaller.

just back em with cardboard and fill with fiberglass. remove cardboard when dry, sand if required and paint. there's a bunch of pics of that job in the thread sava refers to above.
That's a good idea with the fiberglass, I never thought about that. I might try that on the outer fenders (behind doors) on mine. Its a hard spot to weld in patches.
 
  #12  
Old 02-07-2013, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by zoso-
There are a few ways of approaching the rear floor. I think the simplest, but most costly, is to buy the replacement panel.

It sounds like mine had the same level of rust issues as yours. The problem with just using a piece of sheet metal to replace the floor is it won't have near the strength of the factory floor. The formed ridges in the factory floor is what makes it strong.
What I did for mine, was make a "sub floor" frame out of 3/16" and 1/4" flat bar, and then 16gauge steel over that. I'm not finished yet though, I just have the sub floor welded in.

What I did maybe overkill, and im sure there are other ways to give the sheet metal some strength

Whatever you do though, it is a good idea to remove the gas tank before the sparks start flying.

Also, when the floor is out it gives good access to the rear chassis for rust proofing. Having the gas tank out also helps for this.

Good luck, its a fun job
nice work and sure to be sturdy. i agree with the sheetmetal replacement not being enough.

but i wasn't willing to go to that level on this build...im trying to stay consistent and not overspend which is easy to do.

for sure be careful of the gas tank. while i didn't use fire i drilled a lot for rivets and was pretty careful about locating them.
 
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by slanginsanjuan
nice work and sure to be sturdy. i agree with the sheetmetal replacement not being enough.

but i wasn't willing to go to that level on this build...im trying to stay consistent and not overspend which is easy to do.

for sure be careful of the gas tank. while i didn't use fire i drilled a lot for rivets and was pretty careful about locating them.
Saw your thread in the link in the earlier post, nice clean work! That diamond plate sure does look great.

Being that your floor looked mostly intact, I'm sure its plenty strong with the additional plate. Since Calebbo says he has to leave in March, something along the lines of what you did is probably a better solution for him.

If mine wasn't so far gone, I would have maybe done something similar.
 
  #14  
Old 02-07-2013, 08:40 PM
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Hey guys! Yeah sorry I was literally outside since 0600 to..well now. Slang I saw your thread and I was actually looking to mimic it but my floor was worse than yours was. I opted to cut out the entire section and get some steel and lay it over supports that I will get welded in. Boot camp was the easy part haha it seems so long ago and it's weird to think I was gone for a year already. Well here we go.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/66345751@N02/8453982807/http://www.flickr.com/photos/66345751@N02/8453982807/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/66345751@N02/, on Flickr

Right (Starboard side) wheel well [Do you think I can FG this?]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/66345751@N02/8453982451/Left (port side) near the rear door


The whole floor panel cut out


Same: just slightly shifted shot so you can see the rest


Full view


For kicks: my platoon over at Pendleton in California. I'm the Asian in the center holding the big breaker bar hahaha


I plan on cutting out the support bars since they are rusted and getting new ones welded in. The rust near the wheel wells, can I fiberglass those or should I just cut and weld in a new sheet of metal? I'll keep you guys posted.

Pictures acting up: I'll retry in the morning.

Oh, and the gas tank.. yeah I left that in there. Don't do that kids. You may find yourself...well dead.
 

Last edited by calebbo; 02-07-2013 at 08:42 PM.
  #15  
Old 02-07-2013, 08:54 PM
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I'll be joining you Caleb... I ordered my replacement floor..

Chris
 
  #16  
Old 02-07-2013, 09:02 PM
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Check out some of Pinkytoe's posts. He got into this in a big way. I think his Discovery is more patch than OEM: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ueamish-48739/
 
  #17  
Old 02-09-2013, 12:07 AM
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So it rained all day and I didn't get any work done. But the weekend is free and I don't work till Monday so hopefully the weather permits.
 
  #18  
Old 02-16-2013, 02:13 AM
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Tight, sorry guys. She went to the Stealership to get that gas tank recall done, new window seals, and to repair my airbag system. I got F****D! The airbag system needed new bags and the entire wiring harness. They quoted $2700! I said F that and plan on getting a racing steering wheel installed and removed the air bag in the passenger side to make a cubby or glove box area haha. They still charged me $137 for air bag diagnostic anywho.. but the window seals are being replaced for about $700 which is good since AB and RN were quoting me around $900+ just for parts. Get pics and stuff when I get her back tomorrow morning.

Weld job on Monday.
 
  #19  
Old 02-16-2013, 06:28 AM
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they always win. basically they said forget the airbags and charged you $837 for rubber. but you did get a nice gastank...that's cool. i read somewhere that they want to change out the fuel lines when they do this.

im sure it's a great improvement tho although it might make you think about paint or at least compound.

i saw this "cubbyhole" on discoweb the other day. i like it.
 
Attached Thumbnails Rust in the rear-bi4ls.jpg  
  #20  
Old 02-16-2013, 06:30 AM
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after looking at it a little i think id prefer a cover on it so the top of the dash goes across and you could reach in and keep stuff in there. otherwise it's more or less a chihuahua pouch...like sava said.
 


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