I pulled and removed the carpet and rear seats. Found a crap ton of rust that went through the floor panel. I started cutting out the main chunk that covers the gas tank and goes farther back (towards the front of the vehicle) to the beginning of the foot well where it begins to arch down for back seat passengers.

Is there anybody that sells the rear floor panel replacement? I found RN for about $300 but that's pretty pricey. Can I just use steel or aluminum diamond plating? Then I would just size and cut out where the fuel pump is and make myself a cover. The rust is also beyond the sides of the main chunk of flooring near the wheel arches. The rust goes all the way through. So right now I'm just cutting the main square piece of the floor panel. How would I manage the rust near the wheel arches? I have to leave again for the military in March or April so if I can't get a metal floor replacement I'll just put in some wood for the time being. How awesome would that be? Red Oak floor panels in a Rover. Oh geez, the Rover Gods may be furious with me.

Posting pictures tomorrow.

 

Use you search button for member slanginsanjuan, term "diamond", and you'll find a number of write ups on this. One is https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...=diamond+plate

 

I have a slight situation the same way, I am either going to used original floor or go flat sheet metal stock from my supplier.. Maybe a thicker gauge though, Most north east trucks here I have looked at have the same rust unfortunately due to the salt content from snow and build up from driving not being cleaned out.

Chris

P.S. Thanks for the link Savannah..

 

heyyyyy calebbo...welcome back. hope boot camp was fun!

fiberglass bro for the wheel well holes. easy to do, especially if you don't need a perfect finish. also, still loving the three step kbs process and results. about to do my entire roof like that.

different spots need different solutions.

entire new floor is a good way to go too if you can do it. i might have gone that way but shipping it would have been a problem. bunch of write ups and some videos on replacing the floor in one piece.

 

actually calebbo.....you posted on that old thread so this isn't a new problem for you.

has it been fixing itself at all since you were away?

 

A bit off the subject, Fiberglass for the wheelwell holes??? Can you clue me in on this? I have purchased whole (half) wheelwell cuts for replacements..

Chris

 

that's totally on the subject.

im talking about non structural effecting holes from say 4" square and smaller.

just back em with cardboard and fill with fiberglass. remove cardboard when dry, sand if required and paint. there's a bunch of pics of that job in the thread sava refers to above.

 

Here's a few pics that I had easy access to:

Pic 1: Someone else's pic showing the back floor removed at its welds.
Pic 2: Damage around wheel well. Wire brushed/grinded but not treated.
Pic 3: Damage at back of vehicle
Pic 4: Diamond plate and sheet laid out to check fit
Pic 5: Damage at back of vehicle repaired. Non-showing area. Didn't care if it looked bad, it's sound. Also, secured with sheet/diamond plate

By far my most rewarding work to date on the rig. I'm totally procrastinating other work required on the 2 rigs right now.

 

4" or less, that makes sense.. mine is a different repair that requires spot welding and the replacement panels. (The D/S wheel well I am pertaining to).

Chris

 

There are a few ways of approaching the rear floor. I think the simplest, but most costly, is to buy the replacement panel.

It sounds like mine had the same level of rust issues as yours. The problem with just using a piece of sheet metal to replace the floor is it won't have near the strength of the factory floor. The formed ridges in the factory floor is what makes it strong.
What I did for mine, was make a "sub floor" frame out of 3/16" and 1/4" flat bar, and then 16gauge steel over that. I'm not finished yet though, I just have the sub floor welded in.

What I did maybe overkill, and im sure there are other ways to give the sheet metal some strength

Whatever you do though, it is a good idea to remove the gas tank before the sparks start flying.

Also, when the floor is out it gives good access to the rear chassis for rust proofing. Having the gas tank out also helps for this.

Good luck, its a fun job