Seafoamed it now it won't idle
#21
Sava....Josh's thread said whole can and one minute. It's a sticky. If that's not the rec then we should ask to change it, no?
If I had it go all thru one cylinder do I need to get it into the others. Confused again, but so far happy with the results.
Are you going to let me do the MAF or not?
If I had it go all thru one cylinder do I need to get it into the others. Confused again, but so far happy with the results.
Are you going to let me do the MAF or not?
#22
#23
Voodoo Mechanics...
what's happening BS.... forget all that seafoam induction hocus pocus. You're loss of power under load is probably either an ignition timing issue or you may well simply have an injector issue... that could be a clogged injector, worn injector, injector o-ring leak or odd issue with the ground signal to that injector.
Just be sure your fuel pressure is at least up around 30 - 37 lbs. when under high rpm (1000 +), that you have a clean and strong spark at each plug and then it is injector service time.
If the MAF were dirty you'd get related codes. A simple check for that injector is a complete loss of rail pressure upon shutdown so long as you know your fuel pump is not part of the issue and there is a simple test for that. OR if you get a bit of a sooty puff out the tailpipe on startup (stains on driveway), especially just after a highway run where you are under load and feel the loss of power. THis is something to clear up right away as unburnt fuel in the cylinder after shutdown will cause a 'varnish' coating to foul your head and will lessen the life of your O2.
Just be sure your fuel pressure is at least up around 30 - 37 lbs. when under high rpm (1000 +), that you have a clean and strong spark at each plug and then it is injector service time.
If the MAF were dirty you'd get related codes. A simple check for that injector is a complete loss of rail pressure upon shutdown so long as you know your fuel pump is not part of the issue and there is a simple test for that. OR if you get a bit of a sooty puff out the tailpipe on startup (stains on driveway), especially just after a highway run where you are under load and feel the loss of power. THis is something to clear up right away as unburnt fuel in the cylinder after shutdown will cause a 'varnish' coating to foul your head and will lessen the life of your O2.
#25
If it is mostly on inclines, could a VSS problem be a possibility?
I agree with Cosmo about the Seafoam being a lot of Hocus Pocus, even though I did use the spray version on mine recently. It did help a little though.
If that sticky says a whole can that should be fixed. You do need to be careful not to overdo it. You could regret it if you got too much liquid in it.
I agree with Cosmo about the Seafoam being a lot of Hocus Pocus, even though I did use the spray version on mine recently. It did help a little though.
If that sticky says a whole can that should be fixed. You do need to be careful not to overdo it. You could regret it if you got too much liquid in it.
#26
what's happening BS.... forget all that seafoam induction hocus pocus. You're loss of power under load is probably either an ignition timing issue or you may well simply have an injector issue... that could be a clogged injector, worn injector, injector o-ring leak or odd issue with the ground signal to that injector.
Just be sure your fuel pressure is at least up around 30 - 37 lbs. when under high rpm (1000 +), that you have a clean and strong spark at each plug and then it is injector service time.
If the MAF were dirty you'd get related codes. A simple check for that injector is a complete loss of rail pressure upon shutdown so long as you know your fuel pump is not part of the issue and there is a simple test for that. OR if you get a bit of a sooty puff out the tailpipe on startup (stains on driveway), especially just after a highway run where you are under load and feel the loss of power. THis is something to clear up right away as unburnt fuel in the cylinder after shutdown will cause a 'varnish' coating to foul your head and will lessen the life of your O2.
Just be sure your fuel pressure is at least up around 30 - 37 lbs. when under high rpm (1000 +), that you have a clean and strong spark at each plug and then it is injector service time.
If the MAF were dirty you'd get related codes. A simple check for that injector is a complete loss of rail pressure upon shutdown so long as you know your fuel pump is not part of the issue and there is a simple test for that. OR if you get a bit of a sooty puff out the tailpipe on startup (stains on driveway), especially just after a highway run where you are under load and feel the loss of power. THis is something to clear up right away as unburnt fuel in the cylinder after shutdown will cause a 'varnish' coating to foul your head and will lessen the life of your O2.
What he said, I've never done a induction cleaning either, I have ran injector cleaner, but never a induction "clean".
#28
what's wrong with cleaning yur bits using a kerosene product?
i put it in the spot in the picture...apparently I only addressed one cylinder so it's truly useless. i put a can in the gas tank...apparently also useless. didn't put the can in the oil yet...so now i won't bother.
but Spike, I am interested in your comment about cleaning your injectors. not sure if it's related but i'm about to do my plugs and wires and they are a bit sooty...so i guess ill just clean around the plugs and stuff and not worry about the insides.
also, if anyone feels like answering, is the engine oil all that's needed to lubricate cylinders/pistons or is their another way?
#29
#30
well MG......
i have a tick or knock that is intermittent and I can't determine what it is. seems to happen after i've driven awhile or right as I start up then quiets...so i have difficulty troubleshooting it. last week i thought it was maybe the timing chain and/or oil pump as it seemed to come after i had that work done.
but, i also remember that someone said the seafoam helped lubricate AND i felt it had gone away or was quieted after I did the seafoam treatment into what i think was just the one cylinder. but i also changed to rotella and put the big filter on 2 weeks ago so maybe that might be helping. in my small experience...things just don't go away that easy.
the only code i'm picking up with the ultragauge is the P1313, which I think might be a noise creator. i haven't checked it since the oil and seafoam work so I need to pull it from the wife's D2 and try that.
none of that seems to be helpful info but since you asked......unless you or someone suggests otherwise I'm going to drive it a little more and see if I can isolate it better, maybe even with a steel rod to find the source and/or take it to the independent guy that i have little faith in.
thanks for your patience.
i have a tick or knock that is intermittent and I can't determine what it is. seems to happen after i've driven awhile or right as I start up then quiets...so i have difficulty troubleshooting it. last week i thought it was maybe the timing chain and/or oil pump as it seemed to come after i had that work done.
but, i also remember that someone said the seafoam helped lubricate AND i felt it had gone away or was quieted after I did the seafoam treatment into what i think was just the one cylinder. but i also changed to rotella and put the big filter on 2 weeks ago so maybe that might be helping. in my small experience...things just don't go away that easy.
the only code i'm picking up with the ultragauge is the P1313, which I think might be a noise creator. i haven't checked it since the oil and seafoam work so I need to pull it from the wife's D2 and try that.
none of that seems to be helpful info but since you asked......unless you or someone suggests otherwise I'm going to drive it a little more and see if I can isolate it better, maybe even with a steel rod to find the source and/or take it to the independent guy that i have little faith in.
thanks for your patience.