I'm considering having my radiator re-cored this weekend. Two questions:

1. any special tricks to pulling the radiator? Anything in the way that needs to be removed? (the battery for example)
2. What do you use to plug the oil and trans cooler lines?

I'm assuming some sort of rubber hose shoved over the ends of the lines connecting the in/out would suffice but always like to benefit from other's experience. If so, what size hose would fit snugly?

Thanks in advance.

 

There will be some fluid held in the radiator's reservoir which you will want to catch when you initially remove the lines. Once that drains out not a whole lot comes out of the lines. But depending on how your rig is parked (incline) I suppose some could continue to leak out over time, plus it's a good idea to keep crap out of the lines. Your hose idea looped between the supply/return lines is about as good as any. I've done that, or used something to wadd up and plug the inside of the lines, but that doesn't work as well and they could continue to seep a little. Make sure the radiator shop thoroughly flushes the trany cooling part of the radiator.


what's wrong with your radiator --why are you considering having it recored? Is it rotted?

 

you will need to remove the fan clutch/blade assembly to get the fan shroud out.
Its a bit awkward if your short like me and have a 2" lift with 32"s
also its a good idea to tape cardboard to the front and back on reinstall so to not damage fins.
whats it gonna cost?

 

re-core $345. It won't stay cool with A/C on at idle and I've done all the other things on the list.

 

Ok, I assume you've done all the things below, but worth considering if you missed something.

- Is your fan clutch working properly? I had to change the one on mine.
- Is your fan shroud properly installed like it should be? (so all air is being pulled THROUGH the radiator and not around the fan?).
- Have you shut the tk off once it was warmed up and felt the center of the radiator or taken temp measurements with an infrared temp gun to see if there are 'cold' spots?
- Have you pulled the hose to peer inside the radiator to get a sense of the general condition of it. If you see a lot of lime then you know it's probably a good chance it's plugged. (don't use tap water!)
- If the condition of the radiator itself is good, once you get it out you might try blocking off the ends and putting radiator flush in it and let it sit for a few days. Slosh the radiator back/fourth vigorously a couple times a day to work the stuff around ...maybe replace the solution after a couple days with new flush. If some of the vanes are plugged, it could take some time to remove. Radiator flush that I've used is pretty darn effective.
If the radiator is rotted anyway from road salt and stuff, I guess it would be a good idea to remove anyway and get fixed. What's the cost of a quality new one?
- Have you tried to back-flush the radiator?
- Is there a bunch of mud or years of accumulated dead bugs clogging the space between the condenser and the radiator? I guess once you remove the radiator you 'll be able to see.
- How clean is the condenser?
- Is there a winch, lights or grille guard preventing good flow to the engine (this is more for high speed overheating issues)
- Thermostat installed properly and working (probably not your problem, but for others reading this..)

Anyway, just throwing out things I've run into ...maybe something will help you save a few bucks. But if it's getting rotten anyway, recoring or replacement is the way to go.

 

It is a good list indeed.

Under my circumstances, if I pull the radiator it is getting re-cored. I don't have the time, space, or second vehicle to do work which takes days. City life has its drawbacks.

 

Silicon ear plugs

 

I hear ya. Been there. Probably do the same ...or have one ready to go when I pulled the old one.

 

Nice! Thank you.

 

beats my use of small wadded up old Tshirt material.