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Shorted Shift Interlock, on a hill, blocking 4 other cars in driveway!

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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Default Shorted Shift Interlock, on a hill, blocking 4 other cars in driveway!

I've checked the forum, found great advice, but not on this! How do you access the shift interlock solenoid from above (if possible) on a 1997 Discovery SE? Plastic surround seems one piece with entire console. I've replaced the brake switch, fuse, and tried jumping the paired switch wires, only to experience repeated fuse blowing. The solenoid itself, after 146K, appears to have completely failed and I need to disconnect it from the car to unblock my driveway! I'm walking until this is resolved!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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The part of the shift console that has the "PRND321" on it comes off leaving the rest, I think it pops off from the front (or the back, its been awhile since I had mine off to replace the bulbs)and then you can push it back and move it around to work.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Pops off closest to the window switches, tabs are on the CDL shift **** side. It is a trim ring. The part with the transmission positions is screwed down with a screw at each corner. To remove that the gearshift **** must be removed. CDL gaiter must be removed too. Window switch plate must be removed which will have four screws under beauty trim plate. Parking brake gaiter must be removed and cable disconnected from handle to lift console up after four bolts removed, two near cigar lighter and two in cubby bottom. Cigar lighter connector must be removed when console is tilted up. There is sound insulation that must be removed over CDL and around tranny shifter. Then there is a tunnel cover that is riveted down. Must drill all the rivets to lift cover. Hope you have small hands because to get to the solenoid your gonna need tiny hands to remove it's mount bolts. It's almost easier to remove from the bottom. Blind but doable. If you want to disable the solenoid but keep the hole covered just remove the pin and put the solenoid back. Huge PITA in either case. Stupid idiot engineering. One of my biggest beefs with the Disco.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
Pops off closest to the window switches, tabs are on the CDL shift **** side. It is a trim ring. The part with the transmission positions is screwed down with a screw at each corner. To remove that the gearshift **** must be removed. CDL gaiter must be removed too. Window switch plate must be removed which will have four screws under beauty trim plate. Parking brake gaiter must be removed and cable disconnected from handle to lift console up after four bolts removed, two near cigar lighter and two in cubby bottom. Cigar lighter connector must be removed when console is tilted up. There is sound insulation that must be removed over CDL and around tranny shifter. Then there is a tunnel cover that is riveted down. Must drill all the rivets to lift cover. Hope you have small hands because to get to the solenoid your gonna need tiny hands to remove it's mount bolts. It's almost easier to remove from the bottom. Blind but doable. If you want to disable the solenoid but keep the hole covered just remove the pin and put the solenoid back. Huge PITA in either case. Stupid idiot engineering. One of my biggest beefs with the Disco.
I knew someone who knew more than I would chime in.
There is no easier way to do it?
Can he jumper some wires to at least get the truck out of the way?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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...and I was thinking of the CDL shift lock....duh!

Yeah, but it's still a PITA. Still have to remove the console to get the shifter panel off. All you have to do is push the solenoid pin in with a small knife or screwdriver. That is the easy part. If it's shorted can't just give it 12v direct if coil is shot. The shifter housing should be lifted and the side panel can be removed that holds the solenoid. Once you get to the solenoid just remove the pin, no more problem.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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I have heard of a way to trick the system, you run a jumper wire from the rear defroster connector to the high mounted stop light, start engine, turn on rear defrost, stop lights come on, you can now shift out of park.
I have yet to confirm that this actually works.
If he gives it a shot and lets us know that would be one myth we could confirm or bust.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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Name:  iNTERLOCKsOLENOID2.gif
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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If it's shorted it's moot but hey, I'm up for a bonfire as long as it's not in my driveway......lol.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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Thank you fishEH for the excellent pictorial, you enjoyed it, I can tell.......
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
I have heard of a way to trick the system, you run a jumper wire from the rear defroster connector to the high mounted stop light, start engine, turn on rear defrost, stop lights come on, you can now shift out of park.
I have yet to confirm that this actually works.
If he gives it a shot and lets us know that would be one myth we could confirm or bust.
It works and its easier than that, IF its the brake light switch that's bad.
Use a small piece of wire or even a paper clip.
On the rear door there's two metal tabs, one to the third brake light and the other for the rear defroster.
Jumper these two tabs.
Start the truck and press the rear defrost button. This will complete the circuit and will release the shift lock solenoid. This only works if the brake light switch is bad or out of adjustment. If the solenoid is shot you'll have to manually depress the plunger on the solenoid like in my above post.
 
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