Shuddering / power loss
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
Shuddering / power loss
1996 D1.
I replaced my y-pipe with a good used one. New muffler and downpipe gaskets, too.
Had to cut the wires for one O2 sensor to put a socket on it to remove. Spliced the wires back in and reinstalled.
Also had to remove the spark plug wires and coil pack to access the front O2 plugs.
I'm experiencing a shudder when giving it throttle. Its not rotational. The truck will shudder when in Park and quickly pushing the accelerator.
I also get the shudder and an accompanying loss of power when driving and pushing the accelerator pedal, anything more than slow acceleration.
I have no CEL(yes it works), no codes, no pending codes, and all MIL indicators are set.
Watching my Torque app the truck does not seem to come out of Closed Loop. I thought when letting off the accelerator it was supposed to go into Open Loop for a bit?
Exhaust is stinky.
Any ideas? Maybe coil pack, plug wires, or that O2 sensor???
I replaced my y-pipe with a good used one. New muffler and downpipe gaskets, too.
Had to cut the wires for one O2 sensor to put a socket on it to remove. Spliced the wires back in and reinstalled.
Also had to remove the spark plug wires and coil pack to access the front O2 plugs.
I'm experiencing a shudder when giving it throttle. Its not rotational. The truck will shudder when in Park and quickly pushing the accelerator.
I also get the shudder and an accompanying loss of power when driving and pushing the accelerator pedal, anything more than slow acceleration.
I have no CEL(yes it works), no codes, no pending codes, and all MIL indicators are set.
Watching my Torque app the truck does not seem to come out of Closed Loop. I thought when letting off the accelerator it was supposed to go into Open Loop for a bit?
Exhaust is stinky.
Any ideas? Maybe coil pack, plug wires, or that O2 sensor???
Mudding
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 169
Likes: 14
From: Monroe, UT
We sell at NAPA a "universal" sensor (without factory connector) that uses a particular "smart link" connector - but most mechanics still stay away from using them. From my GM days, their recommended connection for any computer system component was the solder-seal connector - I say a good solder joint with heat shrink would maintain circuit integrity. Russ
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
I might have to revisit that and solder the joints.
I kinda figured I'd get a code or something if it were messed up though.
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
Got it all squared away last night.
Looking at the four O2's behavior on the Torque app I noticed the drivers side was pretty flatlined. This was the same O2 I had to cut/splice wires on to remove.
Short story: I replaced the O2, cleared the CEL, drove it, and everything is Okey-Dokey.
Long story:
Being the driver's side pre-cat O2 the darned thing was angled right at the frame. Couldn't budge it with an open end wrench and a deep well socket hit the frame. There was no way in hell I was going to drop the Y-pipe again so I broke the O2 off. Not wanting to take a chance using 12pt socket and rounding the nut I set about to find a 17mm 6pt short socket. Of course I didn't have one so off to PepBoys. No dice. Next stop, Harbor Fright. Ended up having to buy a whole set of 3/8" drive short impact sockets for $10. With that I was able to back the remaining part of the O2 out.
I slid under my '98 trail truck(parked for over a year now but with new and good O2's) and easily removed the O2's. Clean one up and screw it into my '96 Y-pipe. Go to connect the plug on top of the trans tunnel and ran into a problem. While I knew the 94-95 O2's were different from later years, I didn't realize the 96-mid97 pre-AEL were different from AEL ones.
After I was done having a fit I started digging through boxes of parts. Found an old O2 from an AEL truck. At this point it was buy a new one or get creative. Being the cheap-*** that I am I got creative. I cut the plug off the '96 O2 and soldered it onto the '98 O2. All the wires were the same color and the sensor itself looked identical. Having nothing to lose I screwed it in and started the truck. Still running crappy. Drove it down the block. Parked, turned it off, key to Pos II, cleared the codes. Drove it around for about 5 minutes. By this point the O2 MIL had set but it was dinner time so I parked it for the night.
This morning I started it up and it seemed to run a little rough, but it was also kinda cold. By the time I got a few blocks from home the idle smoothed out, a few more of the MILs set, the shuddering was gone, and power(acceleration) back to normal. By the time I got to work all MIL's had set and no CEL.
So the moral of the story is to properly splice things!!! 
Looking at the four O2's behavior on the Torque app I noticed the drivers side was pretty flatlined. This was the same O2 I had to cut/splice wires on to remove.
Short story: I replaced the O2, cleared the CEL, drove it, and everything is Okey-Dokey.
Long story:
Being the driver's side pre-cat O2 the darned thing was angled right at the frame. Couldn't budge it with an open end wrench and a deep well socket hit the frame. There was no way in hell I was going to drop the Y-pipe again so I broke the O2 off. Not wanting to take a chance using 12pt socket and rounding the nut I set about to find a 17mm 6pt short socket. Of course I didn't have one so off to PepBoys. No dice. Next stop, Harbor Fright. Ended up having to buy a whole set of 3/8" drive short impact sockets for $10. With that I was able to back the remaining part of the O2 out.
I slid under my '98 trail truck(parked for over a year now but with new and good O2's) and easily removed the O2's. Clean one up and screw it into my '96 Y-pipe. Go to connect the plug on top of the trans tunnel and ran into a problem. While I knew the 94-95 O2's were different from later years, I didn't realize the 96-mid97 pre-AEL were different from AEL ones.
After I was done having a fit I started digging through boxes of parts. Found an old O2 from an AEL truck. At this point it was buy a new one or get creative. Being the cheap-*** that I am I got creative. I cut the plug off the '96 O2 and soldered it onto the '98 O2. All the wires were the same color and the sensor itself looked identical. Having nothing to lose I screwed it in and started the truck. Still running crappy. Drove it down the block. Parked, turned it off, key to Pos II, cleared the codes. Drove it around for about 5 minutes. By this point the O2 MIL had set but it was dinner time so I parked it for the night.
This morning I started it up and it seemed to run a little rough, but it was also kinda cold. By the time I got a few blocks from home the idle smoothed out, a few more of the MILs set, the shuddering was gone, and power(acceleration) back to normal. By the time I got to work all MIL's had set and no CEL.
So the moral of the story is to properly splice things!!!
7th Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 3
From: Sc
These are great splices for sensitive equipment. We use them a lot in avionics. Just strip the wires place them in the solder splice (like a butte splice) the heat it with a lighter. Solder melts and so dose the heat shrink at the same time. Good stuff!!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...p?recfer=18477
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...p?recfer=18477
