Ok to start, I DID NOT PUT SPACERS ON THIS TRUCK! It was the PO!

That being said, it has 1.5" aluminum wheel spacers.
Brakes wore out, (Metal to metal I'm afraid) and I set about getting the rotors off and discovered one of my lug nuts just spins.
(well, spins and makes nasty grinding sound.)

I worked at it a while but haven't gotten anywhere. I am considering penetrant to get the nut to loosen.
It's those lovely capped DI lug nuts by the way.

I am seriously hoping I don't need to start cutting things.

I don't suspect many of you have had this problem but any ideas are greatly appreciated.

 

If you think it would help you could punch a hole in the end of the cap on the lug nut and spray some lube in there

 

I would think you are in trouble. Wish I could answer your question, and yes, I hope you are good at cutting.

 

Is it possible to unbolt the entire assembly back by the Swivel Ball? Then take things apart backwards to gain access to the back of the lug? Cut the back of the lug to save your wheel/hub?

 

I've drilled through the chrome lug nut cap and sprayed penetrant in. (worth a shot)

My second plan is to use a good quality hole saw to cut through the back of the wheel I'd need one just big enough to fit around the lugnut. Would need to cut through about 3/4 inch of aluminum assuming it sildes around the lug but is still narrow enough to go down the shaft in the wheel.

As for taking it apart backwards, Even if I got the assembly off the truck, all the hardware that holds the spacer to the wheel mount flange is between the flange and the wheel that is stuck on. And the wheel depth still keeps me from effectively getting at the side of the spacer to cut the stud. I can't cut the back of the spacer without first cutting through the hub. Wheels are easier to cut than steel hubs. (probably cheaper to replace too)

 

Dumb spacers.

 

You could try drilling out the stud, then the lugnut will just fall off. go slow with lots of coolant on a good drill bit.

 

Ive been thinking about that. I assume i should use a bit about the same diameter as the stud. What do you reccommend for coolant? I don't think a little tin of reddi tap is going to do it in this case
I don't mind wasting the spacer, they are not going back on.

My only concern is that the studs may be some sort of hardened steel?
Drilling grade 8 would be a nightmare!

 

I would think the wheels would be pretty reasonable from a junkyard if there is one near you. Even though it would be a shame to waste a good wheel.

If you do end up trying to drill the stud itself out, I would think you would need to start with a fairly small diameter drill as a pilot hole and then work your way up. It may take a few progressive passes rather than attempting to do it in one attempt.

The smaller diameter would be much easier as you would be removing less material, going at it with a large diameter drill bit and no pilot hole would be a true fiasco.

What about a "nut buster". Remove the entire outer dress cap and you will be looking at just the nut. Bust the nut into segments and pick it off.

I had a rear caliper that the lower mounting bolt broke off. I burned up a variable speed Dremel using a carbide cutting wheel. The caliper was almost cut thru at the time the Dremel bit the dust. I ended up using a sharpened chisel and the largest Fat Max claw hammer they make and beat the damn thing apart.

As far as coolant, you can use motor oil in a pump type oil can and keep it lubed up good.

 

Cutting the nut would be ideal but there is really only room for drills or, like you said, chisels. The wheel recess is too deep for a cutting wheel. I'd just cut the aluminum all up. But if it could be cracked, that might work. Probably easier than drilling the stud.