The wiring was very brittle, for sure. I was worried I was going to break it. There doesn't appear to be a clean connection to the other end of wherever it goes. Is this going to be a matter of spicing and shrink tubing?

Also, without any codes being thrown, how would I know what else to look for? Fuel temp sensor isn’t exactly cheap and I don’t want to throw random parts at it. I didn’t unplug the existing one as suggested above but when I tinker with it all again next I certainly will.

 

I just went down to True Value and got some gauge wiring. I cut the wires and used connectors to get the ends to match up. Then, I got some heat thermal wire insulation and made certain that the wires would not have any issues again. Those wires are in a precarious place when it comes to heat—there may be a few other areas that get close to being too hot such as the knock sensor on the same side that is fairly exposed. But, I have not had any issues after taking care of that. I clipped my wires right close to the wire harness at the end where everything terminates and the CPS wires are all that is left. I left enough to use wire connectors and then encased the new wire into the heat wrap. It's pretty heavy duty.

To ensure that you are having a specific issue with the crank shaft position sensor (CPS), the end tip sticks into metal slots on the fly wheel/flex plate. Those metal slots are intermittent with spaces. The tip is magnetized. It would detect being close to metal on/off, on/off. This tells the engine that the crank is turning which engages spark. Just putting the key in and turning to position II on the ignition starts the fuel pump. That would pressurize the fuel rail. But, if your CPS is faulting because of a wiring issue, or anything else, you will not get spark. That sounds to be your issue. If this was the issue, you would not get any codes. You are basically running the starter and fuel pump. The vehicle simply does not know it is trying to be started because of the CPS not registering for whatever reason.

 

What did the tip of the ckps look like? The pics I posted came off a truck that ran fine except when water splashed underneath. It also made a weird scraping noise on highway ramps. The bracket that the sensor attached to came loose. That was fun.

The condition of the wiring is important. Believe I used some THHN, 20-22 gauge, to create a new pigtail. Working from the top near the brake booster, I put a new female connector (same one is used on the front dir. lamp (STC118)), on the pigtail. Slid a high temp sleeve over it, then did the splicing, soldering, heat shrinking standing up leaning over the brake jazz.

Did you ever say what the fuel pressure is cold/hot?

 

Tip looked good. How would I measure fuel pressure? Any reading on the Ultragauge helpful there?

I have driven it twice now and in both cases, with a full tank of gas, I get weird behavior:
- Shuddering and threatening to cut off when accelerating and shifting gears (it’s an automatic) and getting close to 2k RPM.
- Cutting off at inopportune times. Once while turning onto a busy road, another while driving away from a drive-thru. I was able to sit a second and then start it right back up.

This seems like a fuel thing maybe? I have an Ultragauge on it but am not sure what the telltale readings would be here.

 

There is a schrader valve on the right side of the fuel rail with a plastic cap where fuel pressure can be measured. Buy or borrow a fuel pressure gauge, Ultragauge won't help. Pressure should be around 29 psi at idle and 36 psi with throttle open.

If it's an engine problem: fuel, air, and spark are the three items to check and work on. Fuel pressure: pump, filter, FPR, and electric power. Air: Filter, MAF, throttle plate, IACV and sparkling clean passage ways, no leaks. Spark: coils, wires, plugs. They all have to work well. Electrical system battery and alternator need to work well with good wiring connections, especially grounds.

 

Been a while, but since my last post I replaced the fuel pump and everything worked fine. Test drove for a good while and all that. No codes.
Today I took it out for a drive and it stalled out less than 2 miles from my house. Cranks but doesn’t turn over. Had to get a push off the road. Checked fuel pump fuse, all good. Checked wiring, all connected. Not sure where the relay is.
it behaved as though there was enough fuel to get me to a certain point and then nothing. But when I test drove for half an hour right after replacing the pump it was fine. What’s going on?

 

don't forget to change the fuel filter too found in passenger side rear fender well

Genuine Fuel Filter ESR4065 For Land Rover Discovery I, Range Rover Classic, Range Rover P38 And Defender 90 (See Fitment Years) (Genuine Part #ESR4065) - Land Rover fuel filters from Atlantic British

 

Fuel pump relay is located in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box. Sorry for the bad luck. Looks like we're back to checking the basic fuel, spark, and air.

 

I only have fuses in the fuse box…no relays at all.

 

Sorry, I messed that up. It's right beside the charcoal canister on the '96.