starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2013
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starter
Went out to start, heard a slight grind sound, then it turned over. Turned it off to see if would do again. No start. Checked battery and alt, good readings checked all fuses, no drain. I hear a click from the passenger side foot well where relays are when I turn key. Is that the starter relay I hear clicking?
I assume the noise I heard was the starter. How can I check?
I assume the noise I heard was the starter. How can I check?
Baja
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,736
Likes: 230
From: south n.j. and ne va.
Check power wire is tight on starter, your starter may have just died, disconnect battery and you can pull / pry the heat shield out of the way it is clipped to starter and bolted to engine, with heat shield moved you can check power cables an hook up batt to check for voltage
If you need a starter unplug the knock sensor before pulling it, if you don't and starter falls it will snap off the sensor ask me how I know not fun
If you need a starter unplug the knock sensor before pulling it, if you don't and starter falls it will snap off the sensor ask me how I know not fun
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 257
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Check power wire is tight on starter, your starter may have just died, disconnect battery and you can pull / pry the heat shield out of the way it is clipped to starter and bolted to engine, with heat shield moved you can check power cables an hook up batt to check for voltage
If you need a starter unplug the knock sensor before pulling it, if you don't and starter falls it will snap off the sensor ask me how I know not fun
If you need a starter unplug the knock sensor before pulling it, if you don't and starter falls it will snap off the sensor ask me how I know not fun
I just did this check: connected positive jumper cable to battery and negative cable to battery negative cable to mounting bolt on starter, positive cable on bolt of s'noid power cable got no spark Checked voltage at s'noid power = 12.85
I see the sensor, I can't see how the heat shield is bolted
Last edited by HammerFit; Jul 31, 2014 at 01:04 PM.
Baja
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,736
Likes: 230
From: south n.j. and ne va.
You just bend the shield out of the way
Should have 12v at the batt cable and 12v at the small wire on solenoid when key is turned to start,
either way saying there was a weird noise then starter stopped working tells me starter went, done 2 on mine, check voltage at that small wire with key to crank
To pull pry shield to side, batt undone, undo knock sensor, 2 bolts on starter you need looking extensions for ratchet to reach them from by the oil filter, pull out starter , remove wires
There is a braided ground on 1 starter bolt, I moved it to another trans bolt makes instal easier
Once out you can bench test it
Should have 12v at the batt cable and 12v at the small wire on solenoid when key is turned to start,
either way saying there was a weird noise then starter stopped working tells me starter went, done 2 on mine, check voltage at that small wire with key to crank
To pull pry shield to side, batt undone, undo knock sensor, 2 bolts on starter you need looking extensions for ratchet to reach them from by the oil filter, pull out starter , remove wires
There is a braided ground on 1 starter bolt, I moved it to another trans bolt makes instal easier
Once out you can bench test it
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
You just bend the shield out of the way
Should have 12v at the batt cable and 12v at the small wire on solenoid when key is turned to start,
either way saying there was a weird noise then starter stopped working tells me starter went, done 2 on mine, check voltage at that small wire with key to crank
To pull pry shield to side, batt undone, undo knock sensor, 2 bolts on starter you need looking extensions for ratchet to reach them from by the oil filter, pull out starter , remove wires
There is a braided ground on 1 starter bolt, I moved it to another trans bolt makes instal easier
Once out you can bench test it
Should have 12v at the batt cable and 12v at the small wire on solenoid when key is turned to start,
either way saying there was a weird noise then starter stopped working tells me starter went, done 2 on mine, check voltage at that small wire with key to crank
To pull pry shield to side, batt undone, undo knock sensor, 2 bolts on starter you need looking extensions for ratchet to reach them from by the oil filter, pull out starter , remove wires
There is a braided ground on 1 starter bolt, I moved it to another trans bolt makes instal easier
Once out you can bench test it
Well the good news once I finish this the entire electrical sys will be new!
Baja
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,736
Likes: 230
From: south n.j. and ne va.
Yeah I think the rave even shows from the filter with long extension, don't recall the size of that hex you need but be sure it is driven into the bolt good it takes some torque to get it loose, unplug the knock sensor on block not the o2
I don't think the oil filter needs to come off, and yes just bend the shield best you can, once out you can pull the starter down enough to undo wires, it is a pita, my first starter the braided wire between solonoid and motor rotted off
I don't think the oil filter needs to come off, and yes just bend the shield best you can, once out you can pull the starter down enough to undo wires, it is a pita, my first starter the braided wire between solonoid and motor rotted off
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
Do yourself a favor and lose the heat shield for good. Use a good quality hex bit socket. Make sure the head of the socket cap screw is cleaned out thoroughly. Take a pick and clean it, compressed air, PB Blaster, etc. Tap the hex bit socket home before attempting to turn it. Replace with regular hex cap screws.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 11
From: mini soda
I dont know if things are easier on a D2 (I have SAI, so I doubt it), but I was able to pull my starter without touching the knock sensor.
The top bolt can be done with no extension. HF has a set of 1/2" torx bits. One of those on a 1/2" ratchet should fit and remove that one.
Bottom required some extensions and some finessing of the underpanel, but still was not that big a deal.
The top bolt can be done with no extension. HF has a set of 1/2" torx bits. One of those on a 1/2" ratchet should fit and remove that one.
Bottom required some extensions and some finessing of the underpanel, but still was not that big a deal.
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2013
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How in the hell are you getting a socket on that upper bolt? I stabbed around with a 5" extension but it's like finding a neddle in a haystack. No way to see the damn thing.
I can'even get the bottom one off. If it was up on rack I could pull harder but lying on my back and that freakin exhaust pipe in the way......hmmmm Im thinking tow truck on this one! I can't get any leverage on it.
I banged on it a bit while I was under there just for grins. Turned the key and it made a small noise then stopped and went back to just a click again.
I can'even get the bottom one off. If it was up on rack I could pull harder but lying on my back and that freakin exhaust pipe in the way......hmmmm Im thinking tow truck on this one! I can't get any leverage on it.
I banged on it a bit while I was under there just for grins. Turned the key and it made a small noise then stopped and went back to just a click again.
