So AAA says the volts were fine. Cold crank was only 400 though. Both the battery guy and the tow truck guy pounded away on the starter (despite me telling both i'd tried that). Initial diagnosis is starter stuck in flywheel. I appear to have a little oil leak right above the starter that has it covered in crap. I knew that, but didn't feel compelled to fix it. So, got quoted $125 for a used starter from land rover mechanic. $200 for new from rovernorth and atlantic british. Thoughts on new vs used and yes I realize it's only 75 bucks.

 

http://www.britishstarters.com/Land_Rover.html

400 amps is no where near enough in my opinion.

 

did you try running power straight to the starter?

 

Agree. Need a new battery also.

 

No but the tow was free on AAA and I trust the mechanic. He'll figure it out.

 

Also hears the relay under the glove compartment. Hears a ding ding chime when he trys to start it. I don't think i've ever heard it do that. He also can't get the key out now (new problem related?). He's charging the battery, now and will spend a few hours on it, but he doesn't think it's the starter, he thinks it's electrical.

 

A 2008 M3, nice. My advice is keep that wife and dump that Rover. I'll give you 100 bucks for it, as is, sight unseen.

400 cold amps is not enough. You need the correct battery in it.

I had an intermittent start issue with my 97 sporadic as hell. I was about to remove and replace the starter. Bought a good used one locally. I was attempting to gain better access to the starter for removal when I popped the fuel lines out of their clamps only to discover the fuel lines were rotted like swiss cheese from corrosion.

So I replaced the fuel lines completely from tank to engine bay. In doing so I also discovered the ground lug from starter to frame was severely corroded. Redid the starter ground, works fine ever since. The used starter I bought for 50 bucks is still on the shelf in my garage.

 

Hi Danny - funny you should make an offer. It's going up on craiglist next week when i get it back from the mechanic. I'll sell you the 2500 in parts I put in it this year at 70% for 1750 and throw in the truck for free.

Here is what's going on craiglist.
95 Disco I – white. 123K
Added ARB heavy duty springs, and Eldorado M&T 265’s/75/R16, 2” wheel spacers ($1800)
New Lower radiator house and new thermostat, new coolant, oil change ($50 in parts)
Window ECU - $40 fixed rear windows.
Took apart drivers door and window – motor and arm (fixed)
Bought used fascia –replaced old cracked fascia
Removed center consol. Replaced manual transmission shifter and unstuck the CDL with PB blaster. Cut the rubber on the gait and lubricated base – works like butter now.
Removed carpet. Removed sound deadener. Sanded and rust killed (50$) all rust inside and outside.
New floor pans (driver and passenger) – 16-gauge diamond plate steel
New trunk floor – 22 gauge steel plate ($300 all in)
(122K) – oil change 10W40. Transmission fluid change, Front/Rear Diff oil change (275$)
Replaced foam in rear subwoofer, and purchased used rear E post speaker ( 35$)
Bought front dash kit (35$) – not installed but will include with truck.
Cleaned the intake and throttle body
Installed new brake pads – proline from roversnorth (existing rotors were in good shape)
New Starter ($200)
Bought new air filter ($11) – installed
Break fluid in good shape
Bought 8 platinum 4+Bosche spark plugs ($50) need to install – will include
Bought new 7MM red spark plug wire set not installed will include
Bought new front and rear proline rotors from roversnorth – will include ($200)

What’s wrong:
Radio shot
Front sun roof shot rear sun roof works fine
Fairly advanced body corrosion. Chassis in good shape. External rust at a minimum but evident. Floor rust was awful and was fixed.
Pretty standard disco leaks. Oils and coolant – not an issue.
Front dash curl – kit to fix included
Cruise control shot
Front driver and passenger leather completely shot. Covered with seat covers - will include. Remain comfortable. No other seat issues.
Sagging headliner – pretty standard. I fixed the worst of it.
ABS has been disabled by removing Fuse (not broken just misbehaving)
Rear break light shot – have replacement bulb will include

 

Here is what I would change in your listing..."rear BRAKE light shot"

As for the key not coming out of the ignition, pop the trim piece off of the gear shift **** and tighten the nut.

Come to think of it, that might be your whole problem.
When that nut works loose the shifter will not go all the way in park, and when that happens the ECU thinks you are still in gear.
When you are in gear you cannot remove the key or start the engine.
So tighten that nut and see what happens.

 

That's not a bad idea. That happened to me with the last shifter I had. I replaced that one. I'll call the mechanic. thx.