99 Dicovery 1, she's been runniing fine, stopped at rest stop, came out she would turn over, but would die out. I tried giving it gas, no luck. Tried jumping it, no good. Finally called road side, now in garge. Mechanic telling me there doesn't seem to be power going from back to front. I reset the alarm (original) system according to the owner's manual. Don't have key phabs, just with keys. Any thoughts, would be greatly appreciated, on my way west and this is put a damper in the plans. Thank you.

 

Help!! For some reason there's no power going from the back to the front, all the parts appear fine. Anyone have any thoughts, please.

 

Front of what to back of what? More info is needed. Are you talking about the fuel pump or the tail lights?

 

drive shaft? come back! be more specific

 

You seem to be indicating that it may be an immobilization issue. If you know the Radio code, enter it with the key on the drivers door in the following manner:

Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).

1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.

If you don't, you can try the "generic" procedure listed below:

Generic EKA Procedure on NAS Range Rovers
The EKA feature does not seem to be enabled on US vehicles, or some Australian ones, and is not mentioned in their owners' handbooks (but see "rest of world" section below). However there does seem to be an abbreviated version of the procedure available on NAS models, intended to be known only by Land Rover dealers and using a generic code (1515) for all vehicles. One US owner with a 2000 Range Rover had his vehicle stranded with a dead battery and no remote available, but when jumpering it got the message "Engine Disabled, Press Remote". Since he did not have a remote, he managed to reactivate the vehicle using a variant of the EKA procedure that the dealer confided -- the dealer was fairly sure that almost all NAS P38's have the same EKA code, which is:
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times.


HOWEVER - I agree with Chris-Bob and Hilltopper - more information/details are needed for any REAL assistance.

 

Bad multi function relay and you will not get power to the fuel pump.
Bad crank sensor and no power to the fuel pump.
Tripped inertia switch and no power to the fuel pump.

Reset inertia switch on the fire wall.
Check for spark.
Replace multifunction relay.

 

WHERE IN PA ARE YOU?

I live in the eastern suburbs of Pittsburgh by the Oakmont or Monroeville exits off the PA Turnpike. There is a big rest area by the Oakmont one. If you are in this area let me know.

Good Luck!

 

Just to update, got it to a garage, and 4 hours later, she started up and has been running fine. The mechanic determined the only thing it could be was a short in the wiring from the fuel pump to engine. The pump is fine, relays fine, inertia switch fine, etc. I appreciate everyone's thoughts and information. Just as a precaution I now only park the truck on a flat or nose down surface. I made it to my destination and she's been driving fine.

 

My old D1 would leave the previous owner stranded sometimes (might have been why I got it so cheap). Shortly after I got it, the fuel pump completely gave up. Inside the pump assembly, the wires were all charred. I'm guessing this is why the PO had troubles on and off. The pump failed.... at my house... very lucky. I replaced it with an aftermarket part (proline from roversnorth), and never had any troubles again. If I had to do it again, I'd buy the allmakes pump from britishpacific. But I sold the D1, so I won't have to do it again.

 

If I had to do it again, I'd buy the allmakes pump from britishpacific. But I sold the D1, so I won't have to do it again.
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Care to explain why?

I put the ProLine in my early 97 which is Pre-Ael so it was the 100 dollar version. It has been 3 years or so is doing swell.

Tody I di have a problem where the clamp at my relocated fuel filter had come loose and was allowing gasoline to spray freely. And worst of all I did not have my handy little toolbag in the Rover.

I was close to the house so I parked it in an empty lot and started for home. About that time my son drove up, so we had the problem solved after a quick stop byu the house.

Lost a few gallons of gas pretty quickly. Peeved me off. Note to self: keep the damn toolbag in the Rover. Always check out the first smell of gas vapors. Do not drive it anyway, it could become a fireball. Verify fire insurance just in case.